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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this was covered on the HAMB to a point and may have been talked about here while I wan't looking but what's everyone's thoughts on powdercoating?
I think I have a grasp on the benefits & how its done and so forth but what's everyone's experiance with it?
While I'm asking.....exactly how permanent is it?
It sort of sounds like its applied in the same manner as plating (although not "dipped" I realize) but can it be removed if need be?
What about regular care?
Does it need any?
Wax, buff....anything?
Or do you just wash it?
Also, what about tapping threads?
I know paint & clear have a certain build up and its usually good to keep it out of threads but..I guess I'm asking....can you cut threads into powdercoat?
Thanks.
 

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Richie said:
While I'm asking.....exactly how permanent is it?
More permanent than paint. You can hit it with a hammer and not chip it.
Not prone to flaking/delaminating like chrome plating will eventually.

Richie said:
It sort of sounds like its applied in the same manner as plating (although not "dipped" I realize) but can it be removed if need be?
Sure, you can sand or blast it off.

Basic process, the part is grounded (so, the part and any filler need to conduct electricity), and positively charged powder is sprayed on to the part.
Then the part is put into an oven and brought up to a temp which fluidizes the powder.

Richie said:
What about regular care?
Does it need any?
Wax, buff....anything?
Or do you just wash it?
Wipe/wash it off, that's about it. Make sure that the powder being used is UV resistant for parts that are going to be out in the sun (like bike parts, naturally).

Richie said:
Also, what about tapping threads?
I know paint & clear have a certain build up and its usually good to keep it out of threads but..I guess I'm asking....can you cut threads into powdercoat?
Thanks.
Same same. Threads can be masked off or retapped after coating, no problem.

Frames are a good choice to powder coat due to the impact & abrasion resistance. People say you can't touch up powder coat after it's done but it doesn't chip / scratch like paint so you shouldn't have to.

I've used it on frames. At one of my employers we used it on automotive underhood components. Oil/gas/anything resistant, excellent adhesion, good stuff!
 

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Richie said:
I know this was covered on the HAMB to a point and may have been talked about here while I wan't looking but what's everyone's thoughts on powdercoating?
I think I have a grasp on the benefits & how its done and so forth but what's everyone's experiance with it?

While I'm asking.....exactly how permanent is it?
I got my first powdercoating done about 10 years ago but have yet to keep something long enough to really be able to prove its longevity. From what I understand though, as long as the surface is prepared correctly (I've seen other people's job where the coating lifted off after a while due to rust underneath) and the job is done thoroughly, it will last for many years and stay close to it's original sheen.

Richie said:
It sort of sounds like its applied in the same manner as plating (although not "dipped" I realize) but can it be removed if need be?
It's appllied by passing a small electrical current through the piece and spraying the tiny polymer beads on. It's then baked to melt all the beads together, creating a consistent coating.

It can be removed but grinding seems to be the way to go if it has been done well. I'd be curious to know what other methods are used by other people.

Richie said:
What about regular care?
Does it need any?
Wax, buff....anything?
Or do you just wash it?
I have always treated mine like a painted finish and washed with mild soap. It seemed happy.

Richie said:
Also, what about tapping threads?
I know paint & clear have a certain build up and its usually good to keep it out of threads but..I guess I'm asking....can you cut threads into powdercoat?
The secret is to not get it down in your bolt holes and onto machined surfaces that need to stay metal. It's basically plastic so I'm sure you can tap into it, though I've never tried it.
 

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All these things people say are true, however, I don't like it. I have to live with it though. Chrome is too expensinve, so I PC a lot of stuff like fork legs, engine plates, top motor mounts, etc. My problem is that it does seem to scratch and gouge if you are not careful. Once just screwing on a fork seal holder to a fork leg, I scratched the PC with my rough hands. I mean it did not really scratch it badly, but it marred the black surface. With paint I could have buffed it out, not with PC. i don't like doing frames either, since the rigid bike is much less vibration proof than a stocker with a swingarm taking up some of the wham-ba-lam. Stuff breaks, fender struts come lose, oil tanks fall off. If you go off half cocked and get your fender struts wrong and you welded them up, then you gotta scrape all that PC to get them welded back on. that is hard to do. With paint? Knock it off with lacquer thinnner and spot it in. Just my two cents.
Richie said:
I know this was covered on the HAMB to a point and may have been talked about here while I wan't looking but what's everyone's thoughts on powdercoating?
I think I have a grasp on the benefits & how its done and so forth but what's everyone's experiance with it?
While I'm asking.....exactly how permanent is it?
It sort of sounds like its applied in the same manner as plating (although not "dipped" I realize) but can it be removed if need be?
What about regular care?
Does it need any?
Wax, buff....anything?
Or do you just wash it?
Also, what about tapping threads?
I know paint & clear have a certain build up and its usually good to keep it out of threads but..I guess I'm asking....can you cut threads into powdercoat?
Thanks.
 

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BigDdy31 said:
I got my first powdercoating done about 10 years ago but have yet to keep something long enough to really be able to prove its longevity. From what I understand though, as long as the surface is prepared correctly (I've seen other people's job where the coating lifted off after a while due to rust underneath) and the job is done thoroughly, it will last for many years and stay close to it's original sheen.

It's appllied by passing a small electrical current through the piece and spraying the tiny polymer beads on. It's then baked to melt all the beads together, creating a consistent coating.

It can be removed but grinding seems to be the way to go if it has been done well. I'd be curious to know what other methods are used by other people.

I have always treated mine like a painted finish and washed with mild soap. It seemed happy.

The secret is to not get it down in your bolt holes and onto machined surfaces that need to stay metal. It's basically plastic so I'm sure you can tap into it, though I've never tried it.
A local powdercoater heats up the old powder to 800 degrees F. and it burns off.
 

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make sure you have a pro do it.

I had my already chromed springer powder coated by a home-do-it-yourselfer and the powder coat scratches off kinda easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Stevie G said:
Don't powdercoat a frame you are going to ride everyday.
Cracks don't show through.
NASCAR doesn't allow it for just that reason.

I know......how often does a frame crack?
Do you want to be the one to find out?
Wow...good point
I never would have thought cracks wouldn't show through....I guess.
So...powdercoating is "pliable" then?
Did I spell that right?
 
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