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FWIW, you could probably make something just as good for a very short layout of cash, as buckman50 is telling you.

I imagine if you can get a rubber plug that will fill the intake, you could bore a hole through it, and run a blow-gun into it.

I would think you could loosen pushrods to assure that the valves were all closed, throw some pressurized air to the plug, and start spraying (or have a buddy help you).

One of the more senior wrenches will be around to make sure I am not misguiding you, but I would think that would be a good-enough improvised solution that should cost only your time plus about a dollar...
 

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ElekVins i have lived thru this with my build. Its tricky but if you follow the leads from the guys here it will make sense. It is REALLY important to get the seal right so take your time and get the best parts you can afford so you dont have to go back in there again for a few years.
The cocking of the heads is critical too i think and yours may be slightly askew.
Good luck mate!
 

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As I begin to channel Cotten here...

I believe a #10 rubber stopper with a hole drilled in it...or tap it for an airline fitting.
Total cost of that is all of about 5.00USD.

Find a friend with access to an air compressor, and have friend add his hands to the mix to hold rubber stopper.

Keep in mind that if there's even a little leak it can cause all sorts of problems. Ask me how I know after ignoring an intake leak on a stroker motor!?!?!?!!!

Take the time, do it right. If you're broker than broke, layoff the beer for a day and invest in the rubber stopper. It's cheap, it's easy and idiot-proof.
 
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I think i have a Keihin carb. Is it the same thing as a bendix for the jets?

No...Not the same. There is a Adjustable main jet for the Keihin Butterfly carb.



VT No: 35-0369
Keihin carburetor adjustable main jet features full adjust-ability for maximum tuning efficiency.
Fits:
FL 1976-1984
FXST 1984-1989
FX 1976-1984
FXR 1982-1984
FLT 1979-1989
XL 1976-1989
FLST 1986-1989



To be honest I'm not impressed with these clamps, but maybe I didn't install them properly. When I spray the cleaning stuff near the admission it still turns off the engine. Should it be totally sealed or is it normal for it to let air pass thru when you spray right on the clamp?
I first install them with one adapter ring on each side, then 2 (one on the pipe, one on the cylinder) but it didn't change a thing. Should I put three on each side? (there is 6 or 8 of them in the pack)

Install the rings on the heads and the intake...
Set the intake on the heads like your going to install it on for good, but without the rubbers and clamps....Snap a photo and post it...

What I want to see is how large of a gap you have with the intake to heads...


Try to line the intake up to the port on one of the heads so it will be like it would be when in operation.(Running)

"IF" there is a large gap you may need to install one of the stroker rings to get a better fit of the intake to heads.
Don't worry about the jetting for now...

Got to get the leak fixed at the intake before we go to that mode...

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If your air cleaner isn't on and you spray a bunch, the carb will pick up the carb cleaner and the idle will change some. Best to spray from the carb side first for a big leak check, then to the back side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
I tried to do my homework better today:





I did a short ride around the block and it seemes waaaayyy better :)
I'll go for a longer ride this w-e and will let you know how it goes, thanks everybody for the advices

Vins
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Install the rings on the heads and the intake...
Set the intake on the heads like your going to install it on for good, but without the rubbers and clamps....Snap a photo and post it...

What I want to see is how large of a gap you have with the intake to heads...


Try to line the intake up to the port on one of the heads so it will be like it would be when in operation.(Running)

"IF" there is a large gap you may need to install one of the stroker rings to get a better fit of the intake to heads.
Sorry Dragstews, I didn't saw that part of your comment before heading to the garage today, I didn't take a picture of that gap.

If the problem is still there when I ride this w-e, I'll have to dismantle it again I guess, and I'll take a pic of it, the way you said for sure.

Vins
 

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You sure your float is adjusted correctly, gas tank vented properly, and your fuel filter/gas line routed right? All of those things not working could mimic an intake leak or starving for gas at speed problem. What happens when it starts happening and you take the gas cap off and/or blow into the tank to force gasoline into the carb? I haven't read the entire thread but it seems as if F'ing around with the Damn intake seals, although important, isn't totally curing your problem. So excuse me if I'm suggesting something already mentioned or tried before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
So I mounted everything like showed in the pics and rode about 5 miles with some occasionnals POF! from the carb but less than before.
Then I had a big POF ! and the bike died.

The intake had been expulsed from the rubbers and the carb was just hold by the bracket.
I remounted everything on the side of the road, noticed the rubbers were damaged and the plastic rings all messed up (not flat anymore, like if the heat curved them). couldn't put the plastic rings back on.
Rode back home at 10miles/hour, everything went fine.

I dismantled everything and decided to put the old rubber (round) under the new ones instead of the plastic rings since I don't have any left.
I rode about 1/4 of a mile and had a POF !

The intake had been expulsed, less than last time but still...

Now my rubbers are really damaged and I don't really know what to do next with this problem that is giving me headackes. :mad:
 
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From what you have said in a few of your past post...
I'm thinking that the motor is running super lean...in turn running at a high temp ...:eek:

Not good at all for it to run with that condition cause for severe damage could result...not only the rubber parts of the motor , but also the pistons and bores of the cylinder could see major damage....:(

Got to find where the leak origin is at and attack that area...

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I think the same. I went back and reread this thread. Two things come to mind.

1. you changed the ignition to a mag...probably not the issue.
2. you had trouble with getting gas to the carb and the carb was dirty at one point.

I'm wondering if the POF is causing the intake leaks.

To eliminate the ignition as the culprit, you would have to convert it back to standard points. Which a mag is pretty basic. But, it was one of the recent changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
So here's the plug from the front cylinder, kinda black so I guess I don't run lean.


Maybe a timing issue or a valve.
Maybe I'm wrong but was thinking if the intake got expulsed or rejected, maybe it's because there is an explosion while the admission valve is still open so the explosion happens in the intake also causing it to be rejected...
I'm gonna check my pushrods and ignition next I guess.
 
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