[ElekVins]

Not sure to understand what is "stroker .200 taller cylinders" but I don't think mine are...

Don't think you have a stroker.....Those rings take up the space between the head ports when taller jugs are being used....
Being the jugs are on a 45 degree plane from one another, when tall jugs are installed, the head ports move away from each other....Hence the need to fill the gaps..or a longer intake ( admission pipe )

If I understand everything well, the best way to go for me would be to get
VT No: 35-0411 in addition of VT No: 35-0409...?
Is that correct?

Vins

Yes that's the ticket....^^
As said before about the gap.....IF....you have very much of a gap with the conversion rings, you could use one of the stroker rings to get a more perfect fit.....

Well.... Poo

Looks like I screwed up your post somewhat. (Ain't the first time I've done this....But I am getting a little better at it..)....
Please hit the edit box and re post your photos and comments....
Thanks...Jesse

 

[ElekVins]

So I installed these clamps

but I still have the same problem. (maybe I installed them wrong ? seeing my skills, it's possible !)

I figured I could post a video of my problem, maybe it'll explain my problem better and someone here will know what's goin' on

The sound isn't great, but in this video my problem appears at second 16, second 29 and second 36, you can see little cough from the carb and hear it if you pay attention. (in reality the sound is way more hearable)

 

[Guest]

Did you do the spray trick at idle after you installed the new clamps..??

Should be tight as bark on a tree with those aircraft clamps being used...

If so...Jetting might be needed....
Being you are running the Bendix carb....The main jet is fixed...There is a adjustable jet that the after market people do make for that carb...

VT No: 35-0202
Adjustable main jet conversion kit is for Bendix carburetors .
The thumb screw adjustment makes tuning a 5 minute cinch.

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BTY ...... Nice Shoes .....

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Also the air cleaner could be a bit restrictive...causing a rich mixture...
Might want to service the foam element...

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[lht]

if its popin out carb your runin lean, popin out exhaust your runin rich foulin plugs check plugs

 

[ElekVins]

I think i have a Keihin carb. Is it the same thing as a bendix for the jets?



To be honest I'm not impressed with these clamps, but maybe I didn't install them properly. When I spray the cleaning stuff near the admission it still turns off the engine. Should it be totally sealed or is it normal for it to let air pass thru when you spray right on the clamp?
I first install them with one adapter ring on each side, then 2 (one on the pipe, one on the cylinder) but it didn't change a thing. Should I put three on each side? (there is 6 or 8 of them in the pack)

PS: Yes Jesse, I puted those dancing shoes specially for you in the vid

 

[JAWS]

Does it get worse the longer you ride?

 

[ElekVins]

if its popin out carb your runin lean, popin out exhaust your runin rich foulin plugs check plugs

My pipe turned blue from the head to the silencer around the same time the problem appeared, does that mean anything according to this ?

 

[ElekVins]

Does it get worse the longer you ride?

Not really, when I did the video, engine was still cold, it was started since 1 mn or 2 only.
It happens also when the engine is hot.
Doesn't make a real difference in fact.

Are you thinkin' about the valves?

 

[ElekVins]

Also the air cleaner could be a bit restrictive...causing a rich mixture...
Might want to service the foam element...

Just changed the foam (previous one was burned by the back fire of the carb)

 

[Guest]

.................Golly Vins......

Here's what I want you to do......

Take back off the carb from the intake (What you call the admission pipe)

Then take off the intake from the heads....
Get you a tube of "Super Glue" and glue the adapter rings to the heads and the intake...
You are using four of them to convert the heads and the intake to the 78 and up type seals....Two on the heads and two on the intake....

If you could find a 78-up intake the rings would not be needed for using your old intake...
But that don't matter....What you have will work fine....

Be careful using the super glue or you will get stuck to the rings or heads and the intake...And I don't think you will be able to run fast enough to keep up with that old bike.

Now that the rings are installed mount the intake and have the nuts for the clamps facing the carb. at the low side....In other words they should be under the intake on the carb. side of the bike....

Very carefully center the rubber seals on the intake to head. try to get the gap the same.

Go slow with tightening the clamps and keeping them centered on the seals....
In your photo above shows a (Well, I'm going to be blunt about this) mess..!!

Take a screw driver and keep the clamps centered as you snugging them up...Do one side a little and then the other...Keep going back and fourth with tightening them down and centered.

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[ElekVins]

Yes I had the doubt.... that's why I posted the pic...

the rubber is bigger than the clamp, how the hell should it be mounted ?!!??

clamp sort of in the middle ?

 

[ElekVins]

Here's what I want you to do......

Take back off the carb from the intake (What you call the admission pipe)

Then take off the intake from the heads....
Get you a tube of "Super Glue" and glue the adapter rings to the heads and the intake...
You are using four of them to convert the heads and the intake to the 78 and up type seals....Two on the heads and two on the intake....

I did this with silicone instead of super glue but I found it very complicated to fit.
Maybe it moved during the install, then you can't see it 'cause it's inside.

I'm gonna dismantle it again and mount it with super glue if it moved

 

[JAWS]

Yes I had the doubt.... that's why I posted the pic...

the rubber is bigger than the clamp, how the hell should it be mounted ?!!??

clamp sort of in the middle ?

Yes.

I was thinking fuel mix too lean.

If it got progressively worse I was thinking a condenser was on it's way.

 

[ElekVins]

Yes.

I was thinking fuel mix too lean.

If it got progressively worse I was thinking a condenser was on it's way.

Seems to me the problem is kinda constant

 

[Guest]

My pipe turned blue from the head to the silencer around the same time the problem appeared, does that mean anything according to this ?

This denotes a super lean condition....(A air leak at the intake perhaps)

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PS: Yes Jesse, I puted those dancing shoes specially for you in the vid

Thanks.....Think I'm going to get me a pair of them Ten Holes...
Wait...
I already have a pair of them....
(Well... when two more holes show up in them)

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[ElekVins]

ok, I'm gonna try to install those clamps better (meaning properly!)
then if the problem is the same, I'll put a bigger jet, right?

how sealed should it be when the clamps are correctly mounted?
It should not change idle at all when I spray the cleaning spray right on the intake?

 

[ElekVins]

Thanks.....Think I'm going to get me a pair of them Ten Holes...
Wait...
I already have a pair of them....
(Well... when two more holes show up in them)

Best shoes you can get, and at least, one thing I know how to wear properly !

Mine have holes too, my money goes on parts before shoes...

 

[Guest]

In this photo of my bike shows how the clamps are mounted.

The nuts for the clamps are down on the same side....

Sorry about the bike looking like it does...Got caught riding in the rain the other day and haven't took the 10 hours to clean it back up yet...

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[buckman50]

Vins:

I find it waaay more effective to pressure test the intake based on the method described in the VirtualIndian link. This way, when you pressurize the intake, and use the bubble test, you can torque each clamp to the point where no bubbles appear.

Keep in mind that those clamps are not necessarily designed to hold the intake to the heads with great force. When you pressure test the intake, you may find that all leaks will be sealed with very marginal torque on the intake clamp nuts. So, you're goal isnt to assure getting the clamps tight with significant torque...you're goal is to assure that you are tightening to the point at which NO leaks occur.

The spray test with carb clean method, in my opinion and based on my experience, only determines if you have a BIG leak.

 

[ElekVins]

In this photo of my bike shows how the clamps are mounted.

The nuts for the clamps are down on the same side....

Thanks for the pic, it's very clear in my mind now

Vins:

I find it waaay more effective to pressure test the intake based on the method described in the VirtualIndian link. This way, when you pressurize the intake, and use the bubble test, you can torque each clamp to the point where no bubbles appear.

Keep in mind that those clamps are not necessarily designed to hold the intake to the heads with great force. When you pressure test the intake, you may find that all leaks will be sealed with very marginal torque on the intake clamp nuts. So, you're goal isnt to assure getting the clamps tight with significant torque...you're goal is to assure that you are tightening to the point at which NO leaks occur.

The spray test with carb clean method, in my opinion and based on my experience, only determines if you have a BIG leak.

Yes I'm sure it's way better, but I don't have the tool and still so much tools and parts to get...
Thanks for the input anyway, I'll try my best with the poor guy method