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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Question for you guys that painted way back when or were just around to witness it. Was pinstriping TYPICALLY laid over or under the clear? Any reasons as to why it was done either way?

My experience is with a few painters who came around in the fat tire craze and their "show" paint always has the pinstripe buried. I tend to stripe on top of the clear. I like that you can feel it and I use 1 shot almost exclusively and don't like to take that chance on clearing over it. I Know it can be done, but I also know it can bite you in the ass every so often even if you do it the same exact way every time.

thanks
Josh
 

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I like over for the same reasons you stated, especially if the painter isn't striping it, then the striper would come in and do his thing after the clear was done. Over gives it that older look and burying it seems more contemporary to me.

Also for a hobbyist striper like me, I can clean up my mistakes without holding my breathe if there is clear to protect the surface!!
 

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Hi Josh, My experiance is that it was done both ways, but mostly on top of the paint, because most striping was added after the paint was done, and yes I have trashed more than one paint job clearing over them.
x500!!!

Yep, and I've been doing this for 30 some odd years now.

So, you didn't say if you were gonna clear over your work or not.

I perfer to paint OVER the clearcoat if I'm doing a pinstripe job, unless I'm airbrushing, doing leafwork, or if the bike is gonna be a showpiece. Then I'll add a few drops of whatever catylizer that's gonna be used in the clearcoat in my striping paint.

But, of course, if the work is going to be cleared over...I'd probably just use the striping urethanes that are made for clearing over anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies, I agree striping on top of the clear SEEMS like it is the older way of doing it and I like that. I also agree that with the striping urethanes out there (HOK) you cannot wipe them off if you make a mistake. They bite so hard into the sanded clear or base that when you wipe them (even a tiny area) they leave their mark. That's my experience anyway. If I leaf on tins and even some helmets I bury the leaf under clear and then stripe on top of the clear. 1 shot is some tough shit and even if it did get marred, it can easily be fixed if it is on top of the clear.
 

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I believe most "older" striping was done on top of the clearcoat for all the reasons already listed. I bury most of my p-striping under clearcoat, but I am not a striper and most of mine are stripes either brushed or airbrushed between tape runs.

However, I have had some issues with 1-Shot lifting around the edges when I've clearcoated it with HOK UC-35 clearcoat, which is pretty mild clearcoat. These were stripes laid down by a buddy... when he used the "hardener" in the 1-Shot it reduced the lifting effect. When I do any hand-striping it's always with HOK Striping Enamel and I have NEVER had any issues with it lifting when I've cleared over top with HOK UC-35.

Just my 2 cents.

www.flamethrowercustoms.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yeah I have cleared over the HOK urethane striping paint quite a few times. It is a urethane so no issues at all. 1 shot is another story. I know guys will say they have cleared over it 100 times with no issues, but I have seen first hand the mess it can make;)
 

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We always pin over the clear for two reasons:

1) IMHO - it just doesn't look right buried. the stripes lose a bit of their 'punch' so to speak

2) I can't pinstripe, so we finish the tank and have a local guy run the stripes. Basic painting doesn't take talent, but striping does! If a customer really wants clear over everything, we will do it, but only after failing in talking them out of it.

Here is a job from about a year ago on the bossman's bike - cleared, polished, then striped:



-Shaggy
 

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yeah, the hardner inthe oneshot is key, and using the same hardner that will be in your clear. I have cleared over one shot with oneshot hardner and it did fine and as well other times it has fud up teh paint job..I too have had the pinstripe curdle under the clear...one time it even wrinkled up then layed back down and was perfect...crazy. If we are talking 'old days' though we aren't talking clear anyway...everything was on top.....
 

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Back when all we had was acrylic clear or laquer you couldn't clear over pinstripes
that were enamel cause it would eat it.
You had to letter/stripe on top or you could do some striping lettering in the acrylic.
or another trick was to use waterbased paint, the clear did'nt fry it if applied carefully.
These days the 2pacs make it easy, try doing gold leaf under acrylic clear!!
 

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These days the 2pacs make it easy, try doing gold leaf under acrylic clear!!
You have piqued my interest... what happens when you do gold leaf under acrylic clear? I am just finishing up an interesting gold leaf job... the owner is a buddy and he wanted bare metal with a gold-leaf scallop on each side then I'stripe it with black around the outside. It is a gorgeous tank that he hand-made by taking a wide-assed HD tank, cutting the entire "flat" area out of the middle then welded it back together down the center and frisco'ed the bottom. We decided to work right over top his gorgeous welds and leave them completely exposed. I gave the tank a final scotch-briting, thoroughly cleaned it and sprayed it with 2 coat of HOK SG100. Next I wet-sanded the intercoat and laid down the gold leaf then 2 lights coats of SG100 on top the leaf. Removed the leaf masking and wet-sanded the edges. I am not a pinstriper, so I taped-out out a razor-thin p-stripe around the scallops and used a striping brush and unreduced HOK Base Black for the stripe. When I removed the tape-out for the stripe, the SG100 from atop the leaf pulled up in a couple tiny spots and brought a few flakes of leaf with it! I airbrushed a bit of SG100 onto the spots to be repaired and used that tackiness to patch the leaf. I sprayed the entire tank with 2 more coats of SG100 last night and everything went great... all that's left is to wet-sand the SG-100 and lay down 2-3 coats of HOK UC-35 catalyzed clearcoat and it's done.

www.flamethrowercustoms.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I wouldn't even wetsand the SG that is on top of the leaf, just hit it with a couple coats of Bulldog Adhesion Promoter. You can buy it in rattle can. Works great and eliminates the wetsand, which could potentially damage the leaf if you go through it.

You have piqued my interest... what happens when you do gold leaf under acrylic clear? I am just finishing up an interesting gold leaf job... the owner is a buddy and he wanted bare metal with a gold-leaf scallop on each side then I'stripe it with black around the outside. It is a gorgeous tank that he hand-made by taking a wide-assed HD tank, cutting the entire "flat" area out of the middle then welded it back together down the center and frisco'ed the bottom. We decided to work right over top his gorgeous welds and leave them completely exposed. I gave the tank a final scotch-briting, thoroughly cleaned it and sprayed it with 2 coat of HOK SG100. Next I wet-sanded the intercoat and laid down the gold leaf then 2 lights coats of SG100 on top the leaf. Removed the leaf masking and wet-sanded the edges. I am not a pinstriper, so I taped-out out a razor-thin p-stripe around the scallops and used a striping brush and unreduced HOK Base Black for the stripe. When I removed the tape-out for the stripe, the SG100 from atop the leaf pulled up in a couple tiny spots and brought a few flakes of leaf with it! I airbrushed a bit of SG100 onto the spots to be repaired and used that tackiness to patch the leaf. I sprayed the entire tank with 2 more coats of SG100 last night and everything went great... all that's left is to wet-sand the SG-100 and lay down 2-3 coats of HOK UC-35 catalyzed clearcoat and it's done.

www.flamethrowercustoms.com
 

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I use HOK Adhereto as an adhesion promoter... tried rattle-can Bulldog and found it too difficult to achieve a THIN film. That is an interesting idea... I could have airbrushed some Adhereto over the leaf.

But no woriies... I'm quite an experienced wet-sander so I don't have much worries about "sanding through".

On a related note, when I paint/airbrush plastic parts (particularly baseball batting helmets) I have my best results when I just get some Adhereto on a paper towel, wipe a very thin film onto the part and spray it with HOK KO-Seal just as soon as it flashes.

www.flamethrowercustoms.com
 

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I have always striped over clean for most of the reasons listed above. I think clearing over it tends to hide the fact that it was striped by hand & not spryed on or done with the help of tape.

What do you guys use to protect leaf if it is not being cleared?
 

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We always pin over the clear for two reasons:

1) IMHO - it just doesn't look right buried. the stripes lose a bit of their 'punch' so to speak

This is the main reason I try to always stripe on top of the clear unless the customer can't be talked out of it ;). I have also fallen foul to the lifting issue with 1-shot which is a pita!!

Like Chip Foose always says "the pinstriping is the finishing touch"
 

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I have always striped over clean for most of the reasons listed above. I think clearing over it tends to hide the fact that it was striped by hand & not spryed on or done with the help of tape.

What do you guys use to protect leaf if it is not being cleared?
I typically use 1-shot acrylic clear, brush it on and lays nice and flat, never had any issues.
 
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