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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'll pre-aplogize for some noob questions. I've done a lot of work on my bikes, and worked on other people's bikes, but I've never scratch-built one myself. I'll be buying a frame, but fabbing pretty much the rest of the bike myself. I'll be putting an ironhead together this winter, and I'm looking around at frames. Jireh has some very affordable paughco frames. Do they hold up? I've never seen one in person, myself.

Second question: I have a specific look I'm going for, but I don't know the rake/stretch numbers that go along with the 'stance' that I want. I'm assuming it's going to be stock rake/stretch, or even maybe de-raked, but I don't know for sure. Here are a couple that I'm liking right now. Obvously not trimmed and painted like these, but just the way they sit:







What is the difference in the frame geometry in those bikes, and this nash bike? I actually think the nash is pretty good-looking in some ways, I like how high the tank sits.

 

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I have a Paughco frame for my 93" shovel since 1992 and has been fine. Paughco has been in business since the late 60s and was the leader in aftermarket parts for Harleys. Check their catalog. I have triple trees on this bike from a company called Perse. Trees are 3 degree raked as the frame is a 35 degree for overall 38 degree. I wanted a different look. Perse website was very good for calculating rake and trail. I just checked and looks like they sold and don't have the calculator on website. Go online and check other sites. Make sure whatever you do have the correct trail. RB Racing has a calculator.
 

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My paughco has been great and all of the other products I have ordered from them have been good quality as well. If you run a high hp motor you may want to install the rear leg braces that they sell and weld them on. Now as far as the pics go:

ironhead - looks to be stock dimensions
evo sporty - looks like 35 to 40 degree rake with stock frame dimensions
first shovel - looks like a paughco with 2 1/4 inch stretch up and out with 30 degree rake

second shovel - gooseneck with maybe 2-3 inches up and out with 35 to 40 rake
 

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The ironhead looks like stock 35 degree but is sitting high in front. Maybe because of large diameter tire (21"). Frame rails should always be level with ground, this looks high in front. When U increase rake the tubes will need to be longer. My bike with 3 degree trees have 3" over tubes. Again always check trail or you may go down with high speed wobble!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, I think that first bike looks high too. I'd put a smaller rim on it, myself.

Thanks for all the info, guys. I think that gets a good start on some basic numbers I'm looking for.
 

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The Ironhead looks like a stock front loop with a weld on Custom Chrome/ Santee hardtail. They are a 4" stretch and a 2" drop I think. That's why it looks high in front with the stock length fork tubes.
 

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The ironhead looks like stock 35 degree but is sitting high in front. Maybe because of large diameter tire (21"). Frame rails should always be level with ground, this looks high in front. When U increase rake the tubes will need to be longer. My bike with 3 degree trees have 3" over tubes. Again always check trail or you may go down with high speed wobble!
No stock HD frame ever had 35 degrees of rake (except the V-rod). The sportster frames over the years are 29.5 to 31 degrees.

Frame rails don't have to be level to the ground, especially on a rigid. SLIGHTLY up in front is good because you have front end dive which shortens trail under braking.
 

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I'll pre-aplogize for some noob questions. I've done a lot of work on my bikes, and worked on other people's bikes, but I've never scratch-built one myself. I'll be buying a frame, but fabbing pretty much the rest of the bike myself. I'll be putting an ironhead together this winter, and I'm looking around at frames. Jireh has some very affordable paughco frames. Do they hold up? I've never seen one in person, myself.

Second question: I have a specific look I'm going for, but I don't know the rake/stretch numbers that go along with the 'stance' that I want. I'm assuming it's going to be stock rake/stretch, or even maybe de-raked, but I don't know for sure. Here are a couple that I'm liking right now. Obvously not trimmed and painted like these, but just the way they sit:







What is the difference in the frame geometry in those bikes, and this nash bike? I actually think the nash is pretty good-looking in some ways, I like how high the tank sits.

The first and third bikes are stock rake and stretch. I can't tell on the other two because they're not photographed from the side.
 

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...........Frame rails should always be level with ground, !.........
Good to know, I've been screwing them up since 1969.
And I think the look the OP is going for is stock rake & stretch with about 4" extended hardtail.
Larry T
 

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paughco is very tight between the wheel/seatpost area..i made a lot of mods to mine and had a super tight fit for the batterry behind the lower engine mount...but better than open spaces. i also have to say the welds looked like shit, and the rear section was a bit crooked, the top tubes are lower on one side. i only bought it to save time on building one but had more into it in the end.ive also only heard good about them, maybe i got a bad one. i did buy it new second hand or i would have sent it back. i just ordered another one for a customer so well see. they also sit low..under 4" ground clearence i think its perfect butcan be a pain in some situations
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Larry, I think you're pretty much right on. (I do want level frame rails, though. I like the look.)

Choptop: Good to know. I agree that tight fits are better than open spaces. I'm not big on see-thru ironheads. Let me know how your customer's paughco turns out. Fabbing a frame for me is not really an option, I'm not set up for it. It's a goal someday, though.
 

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Larry, I think you're pretty much right on. (I do want level frame rails, though. I like the look.)
QUOTE]

The only thing wrong with a scooter that sits level (especially one with a lowered hardtail on it) is that you really have to be careful with your pipe/footpeg/primary/etc. A bike that scrapes everytime you lean into the corner isn't much fun to ride.
Larry T
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
A bike that scrapes everytime you lean into the corner isn't much fun to ride.
Larry T
Totally makes sense. I'm thinking about putting my forward controls up a little higher than normal on the downtubes, I have long-ass legs anyway.

I'm also going to put larger tires on the bike, so it should sit up a little higher than some.
 

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I just bought a ironhead frame from Paughco 4 months ago. The bottom line is you get what you pay for... Its a cheap frame in price and quality. I'm not impressed with it at all. The welds don't look so great and the seat cross bar was crooked. When pressured Paughco agreed to pay for the seat bar to be fixed until they found out how much it would cost... I will not buy another one-ever. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Paughco sux dont buy it spend the extra money and get something worthwhile, they are pieces of shit frames, call whomever tell em i said to eat shit and die, I spent many hours straightening mine ... Many Many hours
Seems a bit inflammatory, bro.

I'm getting mixed signals here. Some say they were fine, some say they were bad.

I am pretty anal about my frame being straight. It's the first thing I check when I look at a bike. I don't like bikes that track sideways or axleplates that aren't square. Maybe I'll look for a used frame, and inspect in in person.

Otherwise, I'll just buy a flyrite. =P Shameless plug. I REALLY wish they were still in Austin. Not far from me, few hours away. (sadface)
 
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