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Here's what overkill clamps can do for you.

....Cotten
Say Cotten....

Looking at the seals with the two tits sticking up...Kinda wondering if it was running the two piece clamps that Arlen Ness had out a few years ago....

I had a set of them on my Pan/Shovel....Did the same thing as the photo you showed...

Went to SS aircraft type 360 degree, full contact all the way around the seal...
Those are the shit....

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Mingo13!

First please inspect to be certain that the diameter of the manifold spigot is the same as the diameter of the head's spigot. Aftermarket offerings have been known to be smaller, favoring slippage to the middle.

Next, please remember that the clamps do not hold the carburetor on the engine. It must be supported separately without bind or tweak.

The clamps are only intended to compress the O-rings; Overtightening can induce leaks, and tweak clamps out of shape.
Bubbletesting while installing will prevent overtightening.

The motor expands and contracts with heat, with the heads moving away from each other and back..
The assembly was designed to "float."

There are good reasons why the M0C0 used nothing more than a #10 screw on their clamps.

....Cotten
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok thanks I do have a support bracket on the right side to hold it up. All I tight is hand tight plus a tad more but nothing else. Thanks for the help guys
 

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Ok thanks I do have a support bracket on the right side to hold it up. All I tight is hand tight plus a tad more but nothing else. Thanks for the help guys
Mingo13!

Rather than guess at it,
the absolute way to be certain you have no leaks is a simple bubbletest: http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html

A big cork with a hole in it works good, but you must have a regulated air supply.

And throwing fresh clamps at it may be a good idea, if see puckers or kinks.
OEM design for a "resto" of course, but otherwise I suggest the stainless offerings with the #10 screws, however often they must be ground down to .750" width from metric whatever.

And to keep this from becoming an annual chore, I suggest JAMES true viton O-rings, as they do not swell three times their size in modern fuels.

(Disclaimer:I am not affiliated with JAMES other than as a dealer, and Liberty does not "mail order retail.")

....Cotten
 

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That bubble test is definitely the way to go. Its simple and easy and eliminates guessing. I used to use the old "spray a little carb cleaner around there and see what it sounds like" method, but there was always quite a bit of guessing going on.

Bubble test = very scientific :D

Regards,
Geo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
the ones I have on there now is bout 3 years old so Im not sure if its time to change them out or not. But I have them off on back on bout 10 times so maybe the clamps or the o ring itself has gotten bend or a sight hole. Will take a look tonight and see. Again thanks for the help
 
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