Panhead Intake Clamps

Mingo13!

First please inspect to be certain that the diameter of the manifold spigot is the same as the diameter of the head's spigot. Aftermarket offerings have been known to be smaller, favoring slippage to the middle.

Next, please remember that the clamps do not hold the carburetor on the engine. It must be supported separately without bind or tweak.

The clamps are only intended to compress the O-rings; Overtightening can induce leaks, and tweak clamps out of shape.
Bubbletesting while installing will prevent overtightening.

The motor expands and contracts with heat, with the heads moving away from each other and back..
The assembly was designed to "float."

There are good reasons why the M0C0 used nothing more than a #10 screw on their clamps.

....Cotten

mingo13 said:

Ok thanks I do have a support bracket on the right side to hold it up. All I tight is hand tight plus a tad more but nothing else. Thanks for the help guys

Click to expand...

Mingo13!

Rather than guess at it,
the absolute way to be certain you have no leaks is a simple bubbletest: http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html

A big cork with a hole in it works good, but you must have a regulated air supply.

And throwing fresh clamps at it may be a good idea, if see puckers or kinks.
OEM design for a "resto" of course, but otherwise I suggest the stainless offerings with the #10 screws, however often they must be ground down to .750" width from metric whatever.

And to keep this from becoming an annual chore, I suggest JAMES true viton O-rings, as they do not swell three times their size in modern fuels.

(Disclaimer:I am not affiliated with JAMES other than as a dealer, and Liberty does not "mail order retail.")

....Cotten

They look pretty....



But are problems down the road....



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