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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello board.

I have searched the board trying to find an answer to this question and am now just confused as hell.

I've got a Panhead with '58 cases, stock stroke, .060 over pistons, stock heads. running aftermarket auto advance with points
Motor now has 2700 miles on it. Runs damn good, but is a BITCH to start. Tried Bendix, S&S "E", CV, back to S&S and now Bendix again. acts the same with each carb. Checked points, timing, coil , different gas, different distributor, no intake leaks. Haven't checked valve timing yet, but thats next.

Acts like it's not pulling fuel into cylinders. Needs 10 primer kicks before it'll fire. Local guy told me that the Andrews "J" grind cam that I'm running is likely the reason. Opens the intake valve too soon at kicking rpm. spits fuel away from the chamber. Maybe ?

Anyway, started looking at cam choices and can't find the specs for the stock OEM cam and also the only "stock replacement " cam I could find is the "Replica " Sifton cam which I understand is made in China for V-Twin.

Is this right? Anyone know for certain ?

Does anyone know where to get the specs for the stock cam ?

I only replaced my cam because the OEM one was flaking.

I'm not interested in "performance", I want something thats gonna start well, idle well and be kind to my valve train. I don't wanna be the guy who's shit doesn't work right and is holding everybody up !

Anyone got any suggestions or experience with this dilemma ?

Whataya supposed to do when your OEM cam goes South ?

Thanks in advance,
Scotty
 

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I built a 49 motor from parts several years ago to sell. It was a stock FL bottom end, stock top end bored 60 over. I put in an EL camshaft and ran an S&S B carb. It was the best starting pan I ever built and I've build 15 pans over the years. I was told by another local builder sifton makes a grind with the same specs.
 

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got an andrews a grind cam in my pan, 80" shovel flywheels, twin plugged and 40mm mikuni

bike runs great and no intention of changing anything
 

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I admit, I know very little about cam grinding. But it would seem to me that someone who does cam grinding could regrind your stock cam, if you still have it. If it's not pitted, they could just take a few thou. off. You could make up the difference in the adjustment. It's light and small enough that they wouldn't have to be close to you. It could be shipped anywhere. How cost-effective that option would be is one of the things I don't know. It's something I might look into if I were in your shoes. (fortunately, the original FLH cam in my Panhead engine is in great shape.)
 

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Andrews sales a H grind cam that is advertised as a stock cam. I ran an A grind in my kicker only shovel with low compretion pistons I used to start it with my hand. Drank a lot of free beers on bets that no harley could be rolled through by hand and would start.

Stock(Front cyl.)H-06/46
44/20
220
244
256
282
0.390
0.390
0.412
0.412
0.051
0.176
Stock H/D front cylinder timing listed for comparison. Later stock "S" grind cams have similar specifications.
(Rear cyl.)14/38
44/20
232
244
274
282
0.390
0.390
0.412
0.412
0.129
0.176
Stock H/D rear cylinder timing listed for comparison. Later stock "S" grind cams have similar specifications.
 

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Well now I have 3 up and running panheads of my own personal stash. They are all running andrews B grinds and S&S carbs 2 of them are the B style and the other is the super E. I have no problem starting any of them infact I should only claim 2 of the pans now since my son started riding a few months ago and I gave him the first pan I built. He has only been Riding a very short time has alittle trouble when it is cold but after that he has it down to a 1 kick all day long. You need to talk to the ole girl she will take care of you.
 

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Sorry to drag up this older post but i did a search and this was all i could find.
I need to buy a cam this week to complete a build and want to make the right choice. Hope you can steer me correctly into what can i should buy please.
Not aiming for a "Hot Rod" rather just looking to make it a strong reliable runner and easy starter.
(65 Electra Pan, STD cases & STD heads)
Thanks in advance.
 

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KELD
1; congrats on bouncing back!
2; You need to know what size engine you have

before you got "dissapeared" I had another look at that bike

STD Alternator cases p/n#1983
STD pan shovel heads 1948-84
S+S shovel 80" cylinders
flywheel stroke= ??

you have Alternator cases therefore 1970 up drive shaft
That engine has no 1965 parts = its special construction and prob hot rod

Seriously ,**you do need to know what you have first before throwing money or youll be payin double.
(the dizzy will need a drive gear also)
good luck
 

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Guys -when did Sifton production shift to overseas ? I've got one of those Sifton cams for my pan, and it says 'made in the USA' on the box.
 

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KELD
1; congrats on bouncing back!
2; You need to know what size engine you have

before you got "dissapeared" I had another look at that bike

STD Alternator cases p/n#1983
STD pan shovel heads 1948-84
S+S shovel 80" cylinders
flywheel stroke= ??

you have Alternator cases therefore 1970 up drive shaft
That engine has no 1965 parts = its special construction and prob hot rod

Seriously ,**you do need to know what you have first before throwing money or you'll be paying double.
(the dizzy will need a drive gear also)
good luck
you're right, i guess i'm just getting itchy feet trying to get all the parts together before the bike gets here. thanks for the info!
 
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You're right, i guess
I'm just getting itchy feet trying to get all the parts together before the bike gets here. thanks for the info!
Best to be sure of what your working with.

being your dealing with a piece together bike from mostly all after/market parts..

The 65-69 motors and trans ran diff. length shafts...Motor shaft is 3.750 long from bearing shoulder to end or small thread.
70-up motor shaft is 4.262

Trans mainshafts are......
65-69 11.985 end to end.
70-up 12.470 " " "

I would think that all was put together from the 70-up parts...being the 5 year run of the early would be an oddball of parts and it has the Alt.

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thinking of changing cam in my pan from a grind to b grind

motor specs, 80ci, approx 8.5:1 compression, twin sparked and 40mm HS mkiuni carb and balanced and lightened flywheels and its running thru a 5 speed softail gear box

would I gain anything from the b grind or best to leave well alone
 

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motor specs, 80ci, approx 8.5:1 compression, twin sparked and 40mm HS mkiuni carb and balanced and lightened flywheels and its running thru a 5 speed softail gear box

would I gain anything from the b grind or best to leave well alone
An Andrews #1 is a GREAT cam for a low compression small-displacement motor.

I run one in my '64 and it moves out. Starts easy too.

Jason
 

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thinking of changing cam in my pan from a grind to b grind

motor specs, 80ci, approx 8.5:1 compression, twin sparked and 40mm HS mkiuni carb and balanced and lightened flywheels and its running thru a 5 speed softail gear box

would I gain anything from the b grind or best to leave well alone
how easy did the 5 speed trans fit?
 

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how easy did the 5 speed trans fit?
it was in the bike when I got it but I have since had it out and moved it 2mm sideways to provide clearance to fit a wider o ring chain

there are several ways to fit it - this is how this has been done

my bike also has shovel side lhs case and in shovel frame

mine has 5 speed gear box plate - modded slightly to elongate mounting slots

85/86 softtail box - rear primary mounting ear is shortened and redrilled to match shovel primaries

shovel 4 speed primary cases - inner primary bearing needs to be machined out for larger bearing

and you need to make up a spacer to space the gearbox and primary apart and possibly a spacer to get the final chain sprocket spacer properly

and it all just bolts together but its a pain to work on gearbox fits in with only a thou or so clearance in places and some of the gearbox mounting bolt sneed crows feet / bent spanners to tighten them up

back to the thread in question with a B grind work on the motor in question or should I stay with the A grind

or will I need higher comp pistons to make the B grind work properly
 
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