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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i tried searching the threads and got a general idea but no clear answer. I have a pan bottom end and a late shovel ratchet trans and I want to run a tin primary cover. can I just swap my long main shaft for a short one to make up the clearance?
 

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Dave:

To clarify what you are asking....

Is your engine sprocket shaft splined or tapered? If its splined then you'll need to know the length as I think there were 2 different lengths of output shaft.

Im assuming your tranny case has the "ears" for the outboard bearing support, correct? If that's correct, what inner primary housing are you running that allows that year tranny case to bolt to a panhead case?????

I have a later pan case and am running a 65-69 engine sprocket shaft. Im running a 65-69 mainshaft in my 4sp ratchet case (with the "ears"). Since this mainshaft is longer (and the exact length I can remember) then you may have to leave the derby cover off of the tin primary cover to account for the clutch assembly sticking out a little farther.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yes I have the splined 1.5" engine shaft and yes my trans case has the ears. nothing is actually running I am piecing everything together. I was planning on using the later tin inner primay. since the trans main shaft is longer in later styles I was seeing if it was possiable to switch main shafts and not run the bearing support. essentially an early pan trans in a late case.
 

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I'd say yes, it is possible.

FWIW, Im running without a bearing support, but, it eats seals a bit quicker without that support, as evidence of my continuous leak.

Question...how are you mounting the inner tin primary to the tranny?? Similar to what Fatass did in the link above?

If I remember correctly, someone here on the JJ posted a link to an inner tin primary that has proper accomodations for the tranny support "ears" that bolts to a 55-up Panhead case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
yeah I was just gonna drill four holes and mount it to the ears. my theory is if all 4 speed ratchets are the same except for the support ears and main shafts the engine sprocket can't go in any farther than it is now and the drive sprocket position will always be in the same place so find the proper trans shaft and I should be good.
 

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Yep...Id say so. Make sure that the mainshaft is the same years' mate to the engine output shaft and you should be good to go.

Someone will prolly chime in here with the quickness if we're both wrong.
 

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You shouldn't have to mount the inner to the trans in a rigid frame. You mount it to the tab on the oil tank and to the tab on the frame. The trans doesn't touch it.
But you should be able to swap the mainshaft and run it stock early style with no support.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks guys, I really appreciate it.

grant: I knew I didn't have to in my 48 frame but was hoping I could actually for extra support. I'm running a mid clutch pedal through the primary and I figure I can use all the support I can get.
 

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You don't want to solid mount the inner tin to the transmission. It will add no support to speak of and will tear your inner apart. It's not structuraly capable of withstanding the forces of vibration between the engine and transmission. The oem setup allows the rear on the inner to float in order to prevent damage from vibration.

-Craig
 

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I put a 65-69 tranny in a 48 pan setup had to change tranny shaft to shorter one.If you have a 55 or later pan you should still check that they line up.the 65 tranny shaft was a little longerThe older pans had shorter shafts of all in tranny and engine.Engine shaft was tapered & keyed
 

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You could also replace the plate that mounts the transmission to the frame with an offset one to compensate for mainshaft length. I made one once, but they are commercially available.
 
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