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Ok... I need to put my springer back together to see how high off the ground itll sit.Is there any way to compress the springer enough get those bolts on WITHOUT taking it to a shop to have it done? I would prefer not to take it to a shop 1 because im broke and number 2 because all the local shops that ive ventured into had people working who didnt know anything about bikes older then cone shovels.....
 

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I've used two different ways:

(1) If you have a large C-Clap, use that to compress the bottom springs down by placing the clamp below the bottom tree of the front leg and on top of the top tree on the rear leg (between where the springs will go).

(2) If you have a bench vise, put each spring in the vise, compress it down and use 4 or 5 zip ties to hold it compressed, open up the vice, stick the springs back on and cut the zip ties after the bolts are on.

yard man said:
Ok... I need to put my springer back together to see how high off the ground itll sit.Is there any way to compress the springer enough get those bolts on WITHOUT taking it to a shop to have it done? I would prefer not to take it to a shop 1 because im broke and number 2 because all the local shops that ive ventured into had people working who didnt know anything about bikes older then cone shovels.....
 

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And open the vise slowly. ;)
 

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yard man said:
Ok... I need to put my springer back together to see how high off the ground itll sit.Is there any way to compress the springer enough get those bolts on WITHOUT taking it to a shop to have it done? I would prefer not to take it to a shop 1 because im broke and number 2 because all the local shops that ive ventured into had people working who didnt know anything about bikes older then cone shovels.....
I used the vise method, but with several loops of s/s safety wire and the correct twisting pliers. I placed the loops evenly around the OD of the compressed spring. It was the compressing-in-a-vise portion that scared the shit out of me. This is why I don't do this for a living. If I did this everyday, the odds are that my shortcuts would result in several digit amputations and a missing eye or two.
 

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#1 and #2 both sound scary. I've had good luck using a ratcheting motorcycle tie-down to compress the fork assembly long enough to remove or re-install the hardware that holds the springs in position. Use two to keep the load reasonably equal on both sides of the fork. A come along ratcheting cable pulley also works well (that's how my local backstreet chopper shop does it.)
 

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scootermcrad said:
This thread raised another question in my mind... once you get the top nuts on is there any adjusting that should be done? I bought DNA springer awhile back and never did anything beyond where it was set. I pretty much just put it on and went for a ride.
yep you should adjust the spring jamb nut tighter until you get the rebound you like....you don't want the springer loafing on ya back and forth not enough pressure causes that...just like a car shock push down hard on the frontend should rebound only once slowly.....now as far as putting the dam springer together every springer I rebuilt I do this to all of them...get yourself a ratchet strap tighten the fucker up put the frontend on the bike slip your rockers and wheel on and let the bikes weight compress the springs by this time you should be able to push the tension nut down and get it started and the rest is history no fancy tools just a ratchet strap...
 
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