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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Evening all.

As many of you are probably aware, I tinker way too much.. but after having all over my bikes longer, going back to a WL springer on the knuck the bike felt.. too small? I've came to the conclusion I prefer longer front ends!!

So, one of my friends had a set of 4" over lowers which a chap in the US made. He also had a 4" tubes.. I had a buyer for my 1941 springer so it was full steam ahead. I had a standard 33.4 in tow so had to strip it apart for the trees and dampener.

Having assembled it all, run into few issues. The axle for a 33.4 is too short to proper run a starhub with. So, ordered some good quality stainless and going to make one with an extra inch of thread so I can double nut to lock it, with the standard, trying to put tension on the nut just binds the hub. Using chain as my stops off the front tank mount to the lower tree.

I also discovered that with the bike raised, I really didn't like the lines with the fishtails, they're now hanging on the all in my garage, going to be replaced with 34" slash cut drags.

Managed to get it outside today for a quick pic. I'm also in a conundrum with the kickstand, bike leans way too much.. an old timer said if I space the top of the kickstand bracket it'll sort it, not gotten around to it yet.

As she sits;

p.s Bonus points if any of you know what my headlight was used on originally!

Rhys
 

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I’m fascinated by the extended sliders. I’ve honestly never seen that before.
I just did a re-bush job on a set of 33.4 sliders. I exerted so much force pulling out the old bushings I tore my open heart surgery scars apart. ( That was actually a good thing ).

I’d hate to think about doing yours.

I LIKE IT !!
 

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trying to get my head around extended sliders and benefit apart from aesthetics, surely longer tubes are the easiest , machining etc, way of extending front end.
whatever, the stance and whole package ticks the boxes for me and i usually dislike straight up sissy bar look.
the front wheel binding when tightened up, are there spacers butting up on anything but the bearing centre race ?
is that a Hella fog lamp or maybe something off a massey fergurson?, dunno.
 

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If the star hub binds your spacers are wrong meaning they press on the moving part not the stationary guts of the hub.
Headlight maybe 85 Cadillac?
Regarding the kickstand they used to sell wedges that replaced the Jiffy stand mounting plate. Either for raised bikes or for lowered ones. I checked only the lowered bike kickstand wedges are still available. So spacing out the top of the mounting plate is one way or heating up the stand and bending it is the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
trying to get my head around extended sliders and benefit apart from aesthetics, surely longer tubes are the easiest , machining etc, way of extending front end.
whatever, the stance and whole package ticks the boxes for me and i usually dislike straight up sissy bar look.
the front wheel binding when tightened up, are there spacers butting up on anything but the bearing centre race ?
is that a Hella fog lamp or maybe something off a massey fergurson?, dunno.
Morning sir.

Firstly 10 points, it is a Hella, but what car was it used for?

The lowers and the tubes are both 4" over, the benefit of the way these run is that they only need lubrication, not to be filled with oil.

The front end is that narrow, it doesn't need spacers at all. the star abutts the leg mounts either side. It's binding as it's roller bearing not timken so I need more axle to lock it off, once enough tension is there to stop any lateral movement!

Thanks for the kind words, I'm really pleased with the stance, the long whale fins had to go though, didn't look right...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If the star hub binds your spacers are wrong meaning they press on the moving part not the stationary guts of the hub.
Headlight maybe 85 Cadillac?
Regarding the kickstand they used to sell wedges that replaced the Jiffy stand mounting plate. Either for raised bikes or for lowered ones. I checked only the lowered bike kickstand wedges are still available. So spacing out the top of the mounting plate is one way or heating up the stand and bending it is the other.
Mike,

There are no spacers, the starhub abutts the legs, it's binding under load on the rollers. It's no problem it'll be fixed, managing it with a longer axle and 'locking off' the nut when the tension is enough to manage the binding.

Yeah, I did look into it re the kickstand, I'll try spacing it first off, if not it'll be getting the butane torch treatment!

Rhys
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm fascinated by the extended sliders. I've honestly never seen that before.
I just did a re-bush job on a set of 33.4 sliders. I exerted so much force pulling out the old bushings I tore my open heart surgery scars apart. ( That was actually a good thing ).

I'd hate to think about doing yours.

I LIKE IT !!
Tim,

The longer lowers are just for aesthetic purposes, they're a one off, made for a friend who didn't like them. As for the bushings, I had a similar pig of a job on my 35mm, I ended up heating it!
 

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Rhys, you got that wrong. The spacers set the sideload on the sleeve. You need to make a spacer that goes inside the starhub on the star side and butts against your forkleg. On the left side the spacer is also the oil seal. You need to make a spacer that fits inside the starhub with smoooth surface so the seal can ride on it and butts against the forkleg. Then your axle can be tightened and everything is a stock as the factory meant it to be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Rhys, you got that wrong. The spacers set the sideload on the sleeve. You need to make a spacer that goes inside the starhub on the star side and butts against your forkleg. On the left side the spacer is also the oil seal. You need to make a spacer that fits inside the starhub with smoooth surface so the seal can ride on it and butts against the forkleg. Then your axle can be tightened and everything is a stock as the factory meant it to be.
Sorry, Mike. I have a spacer in there, I meant spacers as in on the axle, I can set the preloading, but the nut I have with the axle doesn't fill me with confience, without a split pin or the like. I'm going to make a slightly longer axle for piece of mind.

Rhys
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Can't you just drill a hole on the existing axle and put a castle nut on it?
Considered it, but, if I drill it and then i ride it and needs adjustment I'm fucked! making a longer one is less hassle!
 

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I remember 2", 4" (etc.?) extended steel sliders from somebody's catalog, circa 1973. As Rhys said, purely a looks thing.
 

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Jesus Christ, it's a chopper. It's supposed to be dangerous.

If you're that concerned about it, just use a torque-prevailing nut. Boom. Done.
 

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There’s a product called loctite
It comes in some really nice colours
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Morning all,

Many thanks for the moral support!! haha. Rich, Liam, I'm just future proofing it. Will be sorted in a week or two. Finding pipes is the biggest pain in my ass at the moment!
 

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Considered it, but, if I drill it and then i ride it and needs adjustment I'm fucked! making a longer one is less hassle!
Rhys, An axle does not need to have room for adjustment. It's only job is to clamp things together. The sideload on the rollers is set within the hub and the axle just goes through it. The right side spacer presses on the part that allows for the preload. Nothing rotates around the axle. The spacers are what keeps the inner race/sleeve from turning so the rollers can turn around it.

You need to take the star off and look at all the parts behind it to understand how this works. Once your spacers are right the hub will turn freely and your forklegs won't be pulled together when the axle nut is tightened for good

I wish You were closer and I could come by and over a beer fix this once and for all with you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Rhys, An axle does not need to have room for adjustment. It's only job is to clamp things together. The sideload on the rollers is set within the hub and the axle just goes through it. The right side spacer presses on the part that allows for the preload. Nothing rotates around the axle. The spacers are what keeps the inner race/sleeve from turning so the rollers can turn around it.

You need to take the star off and look at all the parts behind it to understand how this works. Once your spacers are right the hub will turn freely and your forklegs won't be pulled together when the axle nut is tightened for good

I wish You were closer and I could come by and over a beer fix this once and for all with you.
Mike, I've made a spacer, got it preloaded and all set up, I'm not explaining my issue properly, when it'e adjusted and preloaded correctly, there's very little tension on the nut, where it wants to be spaced and run. Because of this, with me riding it, the nut is going to work itself loose. Also, to take into account, these aren't original lowers, they've been made and altered, they may be slightly narrower than standard. I don't have confidence to run it without a split pin/locking nut. I had to make a spacer to go into the star when I replaced the bearing for this front end. I also had to machine bronze bushings to accept the difference in the step to run the axle.

It could and would be fine to run, I won't feel comfortable riding 100's of miles with it not being secured.

Exactly the same scenario happened with setting the preload with the springer, the difference is the axle/shouldered spacer has a lock nut. It's runnable and rideable as is, I just don't have confience in it! The metal is coming tomorrow, I'll be machining the axle a little longer!
 

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Rhys. You refuse to understand what I am saying. The axle is meant to be tightened down. NO preload is set with the axle. The preload is set inside the hub. The right side spacer pushes against the inner sleeve with a set preload and this push continues with the left side spacer against the fork leg. The axle needs to go through the right leg and then the axle nut puts pressure on the spacer and the inner sleeve. If the inner sleeve ran rotate freely it may do just that and it really shouldn't. I just want you to be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
She's finally done.

Waited on the pipes from stateside for a month or so. Managed to get over to my parents and tune the m74B as well. It's almost there. Needs' a little riding to finesse it. Pleased with how she's turned out!



272296
 

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Do the MOT require a front brake? Also, is the chain a fork travel stop, how did you make it the right length?
 
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