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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have any info on bearing cups that would allow running a 1" stem in an oil in frame neck?

Quick stats are:
'72 Triumph 650, O.I.F.
the neck I.D. is 1 3/4" (bearing race O.D.)
Neck length is 6"
Springer stem is 1" (My original plan was to turn it down to 3/4", which can still be done, but would like the support for the heavy front end).
Springer requires a neck that is 7" min, but should accommodate 8".

Any suggestions?
Any thoughts on using a 3/4" stem?

Thanks.
Rick.
 

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Give Demon Cycle a call. They helped me with mine. They gave me the name of a company that sells the kit but I can't remember them off the top of my head.


tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
After much researching still haven't gotten the info I need.

Maybe some of you guys with older bikes/projects can help me out?

I'd like to know the I.D. neck dimension for older big twins & Sportsters.
Or to put it another way, the O.D. of the bearing race that would fit in to these older necks.
I think once the sportsers went to the 1" stem, the neck is prolly too big, but don't know for sure since I don't have one to measure.
Allot of catalogs sell various neck cups, but they don't give dimensions, just years & models.

Any feedback would be appreciated.
Here's a pic of a typical cup using a modern bearing, & the measurement I need.
Rick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update:
OK, what I found was that trying to get actual dimensions was impossible. 'specially from e-bay sellers.
So I called the DNA factory, they said their neck cups for '99 & earlier soft tails had a measurement of 1 1/4". ( about $55.)
Since I didn't need internal fork stops, I ended up ordering from a seller called "Middle Tennessee Cycles", & got the cups, bearings, & dist caps for $32.
The parts are from Custom Chrome, & are listed as for '49-'88 big twins.
Part #12253
Now the pertinent info:
The stem is 1" O.D.
The Triumph O.I.F. neck I.D. is 1 3/4"
The neck cup O.D. is 1 7/16" (Exactly 1.318")
So I'll just have some bushings made to make up the difference.

Just to mount the front end temporarily, I made my own bushings out of 1/4" stock, & sanded to correct thickness.

It worked well, but there are a couple of bugs to work out
1) the Triumph neck has a fork stop on the bottom that interferes with the bottom bearing cup seating right. No biggie, just grind off.
2) The DNA. stem is actually a bit short for the top stem bolt (1 of 2) with the neck cups on.
I will modify the nuts to make extra room for fitment.
3) The DNA springer has pads that act as for stops, but they stop travel too early. I will grind them down, luckily I plan on painting that half of the springer.

You may see in the pictures that I made a plate that bolts to the riser holes. This allows me to buy bars with the standard 3 1/2" (or is it 3 3/4"?) knurling pattern.
Just for mockup, I made a temporary set of bars & welded 'em to that plate.

I'll post further updates as they occur.
Rick.
PS. Hard tail is next
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
After some adjusting, I got it worked out.
Cutting off the fork stops on the neck let the lower cup sit properly.
I'm having 2 spacer bushings made for the cups, & 2 riser bushings made out of stainless for the handlebar plate, Was quoted $100 for all.

The handlebar plate let me use my stock risers. I just threaded the shoulder, & cut them shorter.
With 7/8" bars, I can use all my original controls

After bolting it all together, I found the neck + the cups was actually a bit long for the stem, so I modified the lower nut.
The DNA springer has 2 stem nuts.
The first, or lower one has a 3/4" area that has no threads, so I cut that out which gave me just enough room to bolt the top / clamp nut on.
The riser plate & bushings I made also lock in the clamping bar.
Works good.

Cutting down the fork stop pads gave me allot more travel. I could cut more, but it would hit my tank, which is already moved back a bit.
I think the travel is good.
 

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I have been going through a similar issue. Based off of what you are saying above, I think I have the cups that would be for a '99 and earlier softail. They are 1-5/16. Right over the 1-1/4 you mentioned. And it appears that someone machined sleeves to take it out to the 1-3/4" for the Trump neck. Guess I'm one step closer to knowing exactly what bearings I need. Good write up on your findings. Thanks.
 

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The bearings and cup I used was L44643/ L44610. Had to machine a sleeve to fit though. You can buy a kit that has the sleeves in it for not much more than the cost of the bearings alone. Sorry, but I didn't write down the od of the sleeve.

GW
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow, I wish I would have found a kit that included the sleeves, but I ened up having some bushings machined (actually, the machinist referred to them as sleeves).
Was only about $50., not bad.
While I was there, I also had some S.S. spacers made to bolt my handlebar plate to the riser mount on the springer. That was another $50.
Will post pics soon.
Hey Gap welder, can you post the info on the kit you used so someone searching this subject can benefit?
'71Triumph, standard Harley bearings should work for you as long as your stem is 1".
What front end are you using?
 

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I am going to run an old springer I got from my Pops. Best I can tell is it is a Jammer. That's based off of research on this site. It does have a 1" neck. It had bearings on it that were pretty old so I wanted to get new ones. I believe they are the L44643 that he mentioned below. Going to need new dust caps and gotta find somewhere to press the new one onto the bottom end of the stem. Been going through all this because I wasnt sure if the cups in the frame were appropriate for the bearings that were on the springer. Hard part about starting with parts that you didnt put together. Making progress here though. Thanks.
 

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The bearings and cup I used was L44643/ L44610. Had to machine a sleeve to fit though. You can buy a kit that has the sleeves in it for not much more than the cost of the bearings alone. Sorry, but I didn't write down the od of the sleeve.

GW
Well, the od of the sleeve would have to be 1.75" to make it work with an OIF neck. It is the id that seems to have some variation based on the type of cup used. The cups that I pulled out of my neck have a 1-5/16 od where it goes into the neck with a machined sleeve around that that gives it the 1.75" od needed to work with my neck. Guessing I just need a new set of L44643's and new dust caps.
 

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I second that request for info. Good thread as I am thinking of doing something similar for the top bearing on my '47 T100. :cool:

Will post pics soon.
Hey Gap welder, can you post the info on the kit you used so someone searching this subject can benefit?
QUOTE]
 

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Looking like the easiest route so far is to find out the inner diameter of your neck and have sleeves machined with the outter diameter of the harley cup and the inner diameter of your neck.

Just noticed that you quoted him asking for info on the mysterious kit.
 

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Sorry, I should have read more closely before posting bad info. The o.d. of the L44643/L44610 bearing I used is 1.980 which won't work for you. (LowBrow makes a kit for this with the spacers) Should have paid more attention before I jumped in. The kit from Lowbrow was only a couple of bucks more than what I paid for the bearings alone, not counting lathe time.
GW
 

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Well, L44610 is the bearing race. So that makes sense that it is bigger than 1-3/4 because that doesn't go in the neck, but in the bearing cup. Either way, I think im on the right path to getting what I need on it.

Thanks.
 
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