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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Ironhead kicker keeps slipping so I ordered a new three gear kit, be here in about three days. Being my first bike ever I have no clue what to do before I dive in, which I have never been scared to do. But with all new adventures, preparation is key. So jockey shifters any guidance, pics, directions to forums I've missed and heads up to common newbie mistakes will greatly be appreciated.
 

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First you need to get a way to pull the clutch spring, which normally takes a special tool. Then, you need to pull the clutch hub and basket. Now you are down to looking at the kicker gear and ratchet gears. the round bushinged sidefaced gear is easy. The kicker gear is pretty easy. The ratchet gear on the back of the clutch hub, is tricky. I drill out the flat side, making sure to only drill until I get the head loose, then drift out with a drift smaller than the hole, do not drill the hole any bigger than it is, or the new rivits will never be tight, remove the plate. New rivits, in the new ratchet gear and the tricky part, is bradding the rivits over, while keeping them tight in the plate. I have a home made tool, a heavy plate, with a heavy bolt cut to fit tight up against the rivit. I lay the hub down on the standing bolt, and have the special rivit tool (HD part number 000000001-01) ( just kidding with the number) and brad the upper part of the rivit until it is tight. Doing the first rivit, install two, 180 from each other, to keep the plate positioned correctly. I then do 12 oclock, 6, then 3 and 9. Then fill in the rest of the holes any way you want. If you don't get the rivits put in tight, you will be right back in there, and if any fall out, your primary is in danger. So have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Shovithead, your explanation of the process seems detailed enough to get me through those steps when i get to that point but I am at step one here with no instruction manual. It feels sad to admit but I need led by the hand on this. I have done a sight survey of what i am dealing with and this is my understanding of the project. Though my kicker is located right my entry point is on the left behind the (proper terminology is vital in understanding to any work, corrections welcome & appreciated) primary cover? Meaning I have to remove the clutch cable first then pull the cover off by removing 12 Philips head bolts. Anything past that's a mystery and your instructions seem to be a map of a land far beyond. I have a few days before the parts arrive so I wanna start with what tools I am gonna need through this process. So far all I have is a ratchet and socket set, wrenches, allen set, and screw drivers. I know its treat him like he is putting a toilette together "tools needed for assembly," idiot.
 

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These guys are right. Do a google, "download of 1975 Sportster service manual". I think that'll link you to slideshare.net (or somebody else) That'll be huge help. Then, save up for a used maual. WTB here or the evil ebay empire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I also used this parts diagram to learn terminologies and recognitions,
http://www.legendmcs.com/custom-chrome-harley-parts-clutches/clutch-components-sportster-new.html

So after studying till i was in tears, (not a pussy just to much omni-color) I pulled the primary cover, used the spring puller, went to ace and got a 1 1/4 socket for the front nut, because I was informed it had to come off but discovered it was not necessary. I just removed the chain tensioner and borrowed a 1 1/2 socket for a mech shop two blocks away and zipped off the clutch hub nut with air ratchet and screwdriver. I'm now waiting for the parts to compare wear on old gears in hopes that the ratchet gear wont need replacing as mentioned in shovithead's post. If it does i am taking it to a machinist to have the rivets removed and replaced. As far as manuals, I plan on buying one the minute I recover from this cost set back. i wanna thank you all for your replies.
 

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It sounds like you are well on the way to having it back running, in your mind. Since you have it all the way down to the work needed, I would install all three parts, even if it looked to be in decent shape. In the manuel, it explains how to shim the kicker, and it is very important, or you can grind up the new ratchet, or eat the bushinged gear to hell and back, so pay attention to the spacing info. Most times, you don't have to add any shims, but if you don't check, you may be sorry. Taking the hub to a machinest is the smart move, for your first time. Eventually, if you keep the bike, you will become more familiar and comfortable doing this stuff. Remember, we all start out as newbies. We all have to learn somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok I am at that point in this mess where its back together. Went on a lot faster than taking it off. I have had to do this start to finish with out the "Bible," so shims and spacing are a guess, never saw any shims come off though. "I do have a few extra parts left in the kit," (love that sentence).

Extra parts list as follows: Spacer 1.153 long (I never took one off and ratchet gear set in with minimal play. I guessed at the possibility that the old one was still on there, still worried about it though), Oil ring, shim .007, thrust plate and kicker shaft (none of the last four were replaced).

I have not put the primary cover back on yet because the kicker seems a little tight. The return spring on the kicker needs some help to spring back up, a slight tap with my heel and it engages and "returns." Any thoughts or red flags?
 

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I would replace ALL of the kicker parts. But if you decide not to, that is your decision to make. When you assembled the spring fed gear, did you oil it up? Did you remove the spring gear and make sure it was clean with no debris? Sometimes you have to "squeeze" the spring to make sure it is sitting flat and centered, or the gear will hang up. With the new "aftermarket" parts, sometimes they don't mesh correctly, and that is why I always replace everything. The .007 shim, is the kicker shaft shim. You will know if you need it, if you hear mashing/mismeshing when you fire up your bike. It won't take long to shut her down. Hope it works for ya, the first time. Also, sometimes, they take a few kicks to wear theirselves in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am hoping that the tightness is do to lack of lube. The only parts not replaced were the parts starting behind the gear on the kicker shaft and the ratchet gear spacer which would not go on the basket shaft (terminology?). It was however not lubed and my thoughts were that the sticking might be from a lack of lube. It did seem to free up a lil more each time I tested the kicker. I kept the ignition off and pumped the kicker a few times pulling it up at first then only needing to pump it down and tap it with my heel for it to spring back up by the fifth or sixth three pump test. The TDC seems to be in the right spot as feeling for it in the leg is concerned. As far as lubing it, all I have "laying" around is the old fluid (newbies find and remove drain plug on the bottom of the case before removing the primary cover, save a mess!!!).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
WELL I JUST SHEARED A HUB STUD OFF THE BACKING PLATE, IRRRIIITTTTAAATTTING!!! Looking into what that'll cost me. "I was just checking for tight one time before covering her up, dad. I only turned it a 1/4 and CRACK!!! I guess she was tight, SORRY."
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey there it is V-Twin Man has it for $28. I guess I'll open her all the way back up and put all the hard wear back in (shaft, thrust plate, shim if needed, and O' ring), as Shovithead suggested. I will also re-check the ratchet gear spacer again using lube, if it goes tight and still spins it'll stay.

Oh and what is up with the clutch cable? I feared this hill from the beginning. Newbie diagnosis - This [email protected]$KING thing is loose from handle to cover, "nubs" won't stay in place, clutch wont engage. Hoping its a simple over look, and needs little to get it right. "Yet hope is nothing more than a very uneducated guess," Toby Gordon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well well, its been a week and I have it all back together, got the clutch stud plate last Tuesday and dove back in Wednesday night. Discovered a lot wrong, so I am glad I had to redo my work. The tightness in the kicker returning is a circumference issue in the starter crank gear. It is rubbing the rear wall of the primary, I'm thinking it'll rub till it is wears a trench in the primary. We are talking a mm or two, is that ok? I also discovered the main issue that caused all this. After I tightened the clutch basket I gave it a spin and noticed a clicking in it. I gave it a good looking over and noticed the ratchet gear and bradded in ratchet kit gear had a rub. I called the mechanic and asked if that seemed right, "hell know" was the reply. I took it off and seen the ratchet gear bushing had a 1/32 play between it and the gear, so it set with a slight cock in it. It was already showing new wear in the teeth. I never replaced the bushing the first time cause i didn't see the old one to replace it. New one was black and the old one was so fused and shiny that I mistook it for being the shaft its self, prime example of why everyone says, "GET A MANUAL." Took a chisel to it to get it off but now no more click. Loose clutch cable was a simple over sight just needed an adjustment. I want to thank you all for your help in getting me back in the saddle and the manual is on its way. Oh and by the way, I rewired the Bike while I had the down time and its sooooooooo clean looking now. I feel ten times the mechanic I was two weeks ago.

Thanks JJ's
 
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