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Here is a new one I had today. Triumph comes in with busted stator wire up close to stator. Battery had drained to 10 volts, Boyer misfiring. Charge up battery, replace stator with Sparx unit. Fire it up. Runs good times out okay, but engine drags and won't "tach up" under load, like the timing was severely retarded. Will get up there, but throttle response is SLUGGISH. Recheck timing, all good. Sit and wonder about it for five minutes. Look at plugs and clean some carbon, but generally health appearance. Take for ride, still sluggish, snappy throttle response still gone. Check compression just for laughs, okay.

Utter a few curse words and change spark plugs on a whim. Bam!! Problem solved. Runs like abastard. Goes with my theory that Boyers are hard on spark plugs. Plugs can be killed by a Boyer. But why? Voodoo. . .
 

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could it be they need gapped different than conventional ignition systems?Possibly open the gap up dont know just a random thought.

Shoe

fouraceswes said:
Here is a new one I had today. Triumph comes in with busted stator wire up close to stator. Battery had drained to 10 volts, Boyer misfiring. Charge up battery, replace stator with Sparx unit. Fire it up. Runs good times out okay, but engine drags and won't "tach up" under load, like the timing was severely retarded. Will get up there, but throttle response is SLUGGISH. Recheck timing, all good. Sit and wonder about it for five minutes. Look at plugs and clean some carbon, but generally health appearance. Take for ride, still sluggish, snappy throttle response still gone. Check compression just for laughs, okay.

Utter a few curse words and change spark plugs on a whim. Bam!! Problem solved. Runs like abastard. Goes with my theory that Boyers are hard on spark plugs. Plugs can be killed by a Boyer. But why? Voodoo. . .
 

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Hmmmm......I'm STILL eating spark plugs like crazy.

I've re-jetted the carbs, check my timing & compression & gone to a "hotter" plug.
I am running a Boyer.
This may be a dumb question but.....is it possible for a Boyer ignition to "go bad"?
 

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Englishman said:
Boyers hate you. :mad:
Brit electrics hate EVERYBODY. lol

Shoe, I tend to go with your thoughts on this. We frequently think of bolt-on parts that don't require modifications as being a direct replacement part. Some, especially Boyer, need the helping hand of some other component mods. Different gap, exacting voltage and amperage requirements, etc.

They're great products but one does have to 'hold their mouth right' to get them to perform to the full.

You guys always keep me from thinking about my job. Now I want to run off and differently gap a bunch of plugs and see what it does. lol
 

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Boyers can definately be frustrating. I've been dealing with mine for a couple weeks now. First, the bike wasnt charging, changed the stator, re-wired, and resoldered everything, new plugs, etc. I've finally got 13.5 to 14 volts going into the battery, but I'm still misfiring and dropping a cylinder.


I'll let you all know when I get everythin ironed out..
 

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hudsoncustom said:
Boyers can definately be frustrating. I've been dealing with mine for a couple weeks now. First, the bike wasnt charging, changed the stator, re-wired, and resoldered everything, new plugs, etc. I've finally got 13.5 to 14 volts going into the battery, but I'm still misfiring and dropping a cylinder.

I'll let you all know when I get everythin ironed out..
After all this, I AM wondering if your box has gone bad. Because I'm certain from our other discussions that your wiring diagram is right.
 

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I say this about plug gaps and such as I run a NHRA leagal super street car on methanol and it takes different plug gaps with different ignition settings to make it run happy.I (HEAR WE GO I AM ABOUT TO JINX MYSELF)have had nothing go wrong or act up with my boyer since intal shake down.Then we had rotor of a bit and could not get enough advance.Good luck you guys and not that I have gave my old girl a compliment she'll probably start actin up and quit on me.LoL
Shoe
PS. make sure all your connections are tight as boyers do not like loose or dirty connections and we all know that brit bikes dont vibrate anything lose.:)
BigDdy31 said:
Brit electrics hate EVERYBODY. lol
Shoe, I tend to go with your thoughts on this. We frequently think of bolt-on parts that don't require modifications as being a direct replacement part. Some, especially Boyer, need the helping hand of some other component mods. Different gap, exacting voltage and amperage requirements, etc.

They're great products but one does have to 'hold their mouth right' to get them to perform to the full.

You guys always keep me from thinking about my job. Now I want to run off and differently gap a bunch of plugs and see what it does. lol
 

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TRIUMPH TERROR said:
I say this about plug gaps and such as I run a NHRA leagal super street car on methanol and it takes different plug gaps with different ignition settings to make it run happy.
Whille we are on tthe topic, what is the recommended gap for an electronic ignition on a British bike? I have heard anywhere from .35 to .45, and I am running .40 now....
 

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the spark plugs that are being eaten.

are they fouled dirty black like from too much fuel mixture in carbs?

are you mean like burnt white or no marks at all?


i also had bad luck with my first boyer, the box was dead................ and i had to replace it right away.

now i have one spark plug that is dirty fouled and other is perfect. but i think that's my carb needing adjustment.
 

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Thanks Terror, I saw that link too. I figure I am ok at .40 with a Boyer.


Snorton, you had a bad Boyer box? Is there any way to test the damn thing before I buy a new one?

See, I've been struggling with 2 problems on the BSA all summer. The first is that the bike wasn't charging. I thought it was a bad power box (also a Boyer) because all the wiring was new and the stator tested good. I replaced the stator with another I had in my parts pile (free, why not right?) and rewired/resoldered every electrical connection on the bike. I also cleaned up the ground. That fixed my charging problem, as I show 13.5 to 14 volts at the battery when the bike is brought up to 2k to 3k rpm.

The second problem is that the bike falls flat on it's face at about 2000 rpm or so (I don't have a tach, but it happens at anything above 1/4 throttle) and I cannot throttle through it. I've narrowed my problems down to the ignition (mkIII) box I think. I thought my problem was carboration related at first, but the more I think about it the more I am convinced that it is not. The bike ran great for a year or so before this summer, and nothing (carboration wise) has changed other than a COMPLETELY dead battery. I do have 2 carb rebuild kits on the way though, and I'll rebuild the both of them just to be sure anyway.

Can having a bike sit all winter long with the ignition on kill a Boyer ignition box? I put a new battery in the bike this summer and the bike ran ok ffor a week or so, still fell flat at 1/2 throttle.

Is there any way to definitively test the Boyer ignition box? I think it is not advancing....I can't afford a new one....
 

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yeah, i basicly knew it was dead only cause i had no spark at all. ( i was using correct 6 volt coils with the low ohm's and were new)


plus i bought the boyer ignition box on ebay and it was already opened and i could tell it was either tested or used. (so i had a hunch)

but another problem i had was that i can't get enough charge in system to run lights and not die with boyer, and battery eliminator.

so i'm adding a battery....
 

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I guess I need to say it again add the battery 5 amps and she'll run all day and yall have bright lights.I also cut out all unnecessary wiring and went 12v neground with a new style harley coil.got about 10 feet of wire in the whole bike and it can be fixed easily at the side of road if need be.Runnin halogen headlamp,led taillmp I built and has fired first kick from day one.Not trying to sound cocky here just follow the boyer wiring diagram and I suppose I could draw out how I wired mine and post it up.KISS is the moto on my scoot.Also wire your lights on a seperate switch that way when your kickin it all juice is directed straight to the boyer and if for some reason your out on the road and your battery starts to drop you can possibly flip the lights off and maker to saftey.

I am using the 12v power wheels style battery I picked it up at radio shack for 13.00. 2 weeks ago we rode 450 miles trouble free except for a broken terminal on my ignition switch. Heres some pics of the set up and how I hid it so it would look almost batteryless.Also remember that the max output of the charging system is usually around 2000 rpm so at a idle for a long amount of time it could be possible that your boyer might be discharging the battery just to get the draw.And when I say a long time I mean like bumper to bumper lines getting in a biker event or stopped in traffic for a long period of time.
PS: I am still running the same plugs since intnital fire up and I would say I have put about 2500 miles on it this summer and raced it at the HAMB drags.

I hope this helps
Shoe


 

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yeah that's the one thing i did right.

made a key switch that is engine only for kick, then i switch to lights.

i'm working out all the bugs, gonna ride the shit out of my bike finally!!!

then eventually, i'm gonna break her down again once i have all the little things worked out, cut the springer down and neck to less rake and make it more of a bobber.
 

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I actually use a industrial grade single pull headlamp switch on mine something like a tractor would use I use the key switch to turn power on to ignition and power to light switch once running pull out on switch for headlamp/tailamp/brake lamp .That way I am not going back thru the kill part of the switch to go to headlamp and tailamp.Also makes it easy if going down the road I can take my foot and kill the lights by pushin itn the switch.

Shoe

snortonnorton said:
yeah that's the one thing i did right.

made a key switch that is engine only for kick, then i switch to lights.

i'm working out all the bugs, gonna ride the shit out of my bike finally!!!

then eventually, i'm gonna break her down again once i have all the little things worked out, cut the springer down and neck to less rake and make it more of a bobber.
 

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snortonnorton said:
the spark plugs that are being eaten.

.
They are all black and sooty...like they are gas fouled & now I am wondering if my gap is too close after reading more of this post.
Although...it could be the way I'm riding.
When I beat on the bike it runs great....but I live in "pothole city" and there is ALWAYS someone in front of me!
I know it'll all work out eventually...its just a matter of finding the right...."everything".
 

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I had some plug eating problems when I converted to boyer ignition, but they were solved by rejetting the carb and rewiring the whole bike. I had rebuilt and slightly modified the engine at the same time I converted the ignition, so this could be the cause. I still carry extra plugs with me.

Now, I have charging problems when I use the headlight. Good thing my bike also has a daytime light that won't drain the battery and that I can turn on at night and still get seen. I'll try to replace the halogen headlight with a standard, as I don't want to spend 600$ CDN on a three phase alternator.

Thinking back, maybe I should have kept the points ignition. It used to work well.
 

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sorry for bringing this back from the dead...

a few nights ago i was riding home from a friends house, (rode there after work with no problems), and the bike starts stuttering, skipping, hesitating.. thought it was cause i was almost out of gas so i turned on the reserve and it seemed to go away. i filled up, shut off the reserve, and took the long way hope. the hesitating got really bad that i thought i wasn't gonna make it home. got into my neighborhood and bring first and second into higher rpms and it seemed fine. called it a night. two days go by where i don't ride and it happened again today, had to walk the bike back home. changed out the plugs and it ran just fine. apparently i do have a boyer and i was running ngks for only a couple of hundred miles, how quick does the boyer eat em up? i put champions in there and it definitely takes a few more kicks to start.. runs fine though.. or so i thought. about 30 minutes (if that) of riding on these champions and the problem comes back. i change em out with another new set and its fine.. for now.. i'm sure it'll happen with these too. should i go back to ngks and try those again? how fast do these boyers actually eat up plugs? any connections i should check? these a box under the horn that isn't connected to anything.. what is it?

any help is appreciated..
 
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