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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I got my current scoot I was told it was set up for a Andrews B grind cam. Well not only does it not have a Andrews cam it has a S&S cam that has 2 lobes with heavy chips and grind marks. SO...I purchased a Andrews A cam to install.

Cam went in, a little tuning and fires right off. Only 1 problem, I dont think the heads were built for a higher lift cam. I am getting alot of noise from the top end. Springs binding, valve guide contact? It is a 80 FXE. While I am in there I want to replace the rockers with EVO style. Can this be done and still run the shovel lifters till EVO blocks and tappets can be purchased? Also what needs to be done to run a A grind in a late model shovel? I know springs but what about the guides and seals? Thanks.
 

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my first question would be, "what caused the damage to the S&S cam", to avoid the same problem. End play?

Direct from Andrews Install instructions:
For cam grinds J, F, A, AB, BH, and #1 head work is normally not required when working with shovelhead motors.
J and #1 grind cams are OK to bolt into a panhead motor. NOTE: For some 80 cu.in. motors ('80 &'81) cams
having more than .430 lift require valve spring work for correct spring clearance. Andrews Products medium lift
collars (part# 276150) will provide .060 extra spring clearance to easily solve this problem.


Incidentally, I have a new in the package S&S .550 lift spring kit (90-2053) for pans and shovels in the classified section. I also have a real cheap stock H cam w/ a blue 78-84 gear on it. PM me if interested.

Personally, I would stick w/ shovel components. There's no shortage of good OEM and aftermarket stuff, and if you want an evo, you can get one of those easily too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the response. the cam damage was from a jackass previous owner who thought he could polish a damaged cam and run with it. The engine is a 1980 80ci. I was aware of the required for head work to run a A grind in that model year of engine it was just me taking the word of said previous owner that the valves were set up for a larger cam. Now, you said you have a spring kit for sale, the next question would be how much? I am interested. The collars sound like they may be a way to go also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Maybe I did not explain this well enough. The Engine is in top notch condition as far as all tolerances within spec prior to me changing the cam, quieter than my last EVO. The engine only has 1900 miles, well about 2400 now. I have been riding it for about a month, it was a real dog on the bottom end. I got a deal on a A grind cam and thought I would try it out. Upon removal of the cam that was in it I found that the lobes for the aft cylinder were damage and someone had tried to polish them up. No big deal, I had 2 spare lifters to replace the ones rolling on the bad lobes. OK, new cam installed, bike fires right up. I set cam endplay to .008. plenty of room from lobes to lifter blocks.

Now, my question is, I have heard that 80-81 shovels cannot run a A grind due to the extra lift. Is that true? If so is it due to lifter travel in the blocks, spring bind, valve guides or a combination? I am no dummy mechanic, I build jet engines for a living. I know there are minor differences in harleys from year to year.

I have not pulled the rocker boxes, that is next. I want to inspect valve seats and repair damaged plug threads in 1 hole. Just wanting to know if anyone has set up a 80 shovel to run a mild cam and what was the easiest way to have clearence up there. My noise isnt bad, I just dont want to break a spring or cause a problem if I dont have to. thanks
 

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eric_81, my son is running a AB cam in his '81 shovel chopper, and a B grind in his '81 sturgis, again no head work needed, I've been building these motors for over 30 years and have put a lot these cams in. if you need piece of mind you'll need to pull your heads and check your clearances.
 

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eric, pm Roach or Dragstew, these tow will know for sure,
 

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I just finished my '79 motor, it started out as a 74" but i put rebuilt 80" wheels. I found a set of rebuilt stock 1980 80ci heads that were built by a very well known machinist here. Stock heads set up for a stock motor. I put a BH cam and siften big axle hyd. Lifters kit in.(comes with pushrods). With in 150 miles of being done, I broke two lifters. I'm talking in half tons of top end noise (pinging sounds) and bad idle problems. First time we thought it was a Shitty lifter got thru QA. But the second time we knew we had a problem. It was coil binding so bad that it was forcing the push rod to bow and rub on the push rod tube. We took the heads and cut the seats down and put in high lift springs and collars. It took almost .100" to get were we wanted it to be. But find like a top and havent had a problem since, I have about 600 miles on it now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you to everyone for the advice. I think I am having a similar problem as rsssbelair but not that extreme. I did pull the heads this weekend while watching the waters rise in my back yard. I live within 100 yards of the Bay. This weekends hurricane left me with alot of time to work in the garage. Now that the heads are of I can do some checking. after getting one rocker box off I see no problems in there. shimmed nice and tight and no contact with the arm and box. Pretty sure it is a coil bind issue. Going to take the heads to work tomorrow and measure them out.
I knew I had read this somewhere, Scott McKelvey posted it up a little higher.....
NOTE: For some 80 cu.in. motors ('80 &'81) cams
having more than .430 lift require valve spring work for correct spring clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you Scott. I ordered the medium lift spring collars and it was enough clearance. no more binding, smooth and quiet top end. Now I have to buy a new ignition thanks to my Crane Hi4 Single fire crapping out on the front cylinder but at least I got 1 ride in before it failed. It never ends,
 
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