Jockey Journal Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I desperately need some help... I postet an intro for the bike a while ago.

http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88176

The bike startet to run a litle "rough", it was hard to start. At that time i was running poits (late shovel)
I replaced the points whit a Ultima 53-644 ignition. This is not the one you can hook up to a laptop.
I set the ignition whit engine tdc compresion stroke.
I am running a new super e carb, the carb is set to fab specs. I had the bike firing and runing for a while whit this setup, but now its completely deat, it just farts after 20 kicks.... Kick only. I have tryed to turn the ignition a litle both ways, adjusting the idle mix screw, pooring gas directly to the cylinders, giving the bike the finger, throving wrenches in the wall.... Please help me :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
generally speaking if i have something that ran and it now doesnt run its usually ends up being electrical, ie weak battery, bad ignition or coil ect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have a good spark on both plugs, plenty of power on my battery,the coil is brand new( came whit the ign) i havent rode the bike whit this setup, but it startet up after a lot of kicking. Now its dead.... Stil got spark, fuel and power....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Re: Need some Shovel Help !!

Start with the basics. All gasoline internal combustion engines need, fuel, fire, compression and air. With those elements present an engine can't help but run. With the proper refinements in those elements it will perform efficiently and reliably.
A) Fuel
1. Make certain there is sufficient fuel in the tank. With a flashlight, look!
2.Check fuel flow to carb. Take the fuel line off(at the carb), let the fuel run into a can. There should be a strong flow instantly.
3. Check fuel..make sure it's fresh and clean..bad gasoline has a weak lacquer thinner odor. Water, rust, etc. will settle to the bottom of the tank.
4.Double check 1. 2. 3.

B) Fire(ignition)
1.Recheck engine timing(Make certain you are using the correct flywheel timing mark as per the factory/manufacturer's manual/instruction sheet)
2.Check for strong spark at plugs. Should hear a sharp snap with spark plug out of cylinder and grounded to engine. The spark should be visible(bluish-white) even in daylight. Try not to get biten by the high voltage or to set stray fuel fumes on fire! (I've done both.)
3. Using manufacturer's directions trouble shoot your new ignition system. If in doubt go back to the points set-up.
4. Check 1. 2. 3. again

C) Compression
1. I've seen H.D. motors run with as little as 95lbs. compression. No compression gauge? Put your thumb over the spark plug opening. Have someone turn the engine over. Good compression should pop your thumb off of the cylinder. Check both cylinders.

D)Oxygen(air)
1. This should be a no brainer!!!

Double check everything. If you find a problem, don't assume it is the only problem. Problems are gengerally a combination of factors, weak spark and marginal fuel quality, for example.

Engines are dumb. With fuel, fire, compression and air it will run. Perhaps poorly without refinements in the fuel, fire, compression and air equation; but it will run. Good luck and happy motoring!

Dr. B
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,485 Posts
If your plugs have been fouled, getting it running, they may spark out of the cylinder, and NO spark, under compression. So I would change them, re static time, check pushrods(if they are solids), and make sure the intake rubbers are perfectly sealed. Not to mention, a set of good solid core spark plug wires. Todays batterys are suspect, brand new. So if you are checking the battery with a meter, that is not enough. You need to load test. You can have 12 volts, and .00000000000000002 amps, and you will not run. Knowing you have spark, this is probably not the case, but I never ignore the small things. They will stop you from running as fast, or faster than a carb explosion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
I am wondering if your cam is ok. Take off your pushrod covers and watch the rods. They should all have about the same stroke as seen by eye. The outer rods are the exaust and the inner ones are the intake.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,944 Posts
Re: Need some Shovel Help !!

very nice reply for a noob, Its not my thread but I do consider this my favorite board and wanted to say you are the kind of noob we need. I like it when people contribute and you did a superior job for a #2 post.

Start with the basics. All gasoline internal combustion engines need, fuel, fire, compression and air. With those elements present an engine can't help but run. With the proper refinements in those elements it will perform efficiently and reliably.
A) Fuel
1. Make certain there is sufficient fuel in the tank. With a flashlight, look!
2.Check fuel flow to carb. Take the fuel line off(at the carb), let the fuel run into a can. There should be a strong flow instantly.
3. Check fuel..make sure it's fresh and clean..bad gasoline has a weak lacquer thinner odor. Water, rust, etc. will settle to the bottom of the tank.
4.Double check 1. 2. 3.

B) Fire(ignition)
1.Recheck engine timing(Make certain you are using the correct flywheel timing mark as per the factory/manufacturer's manual/instruction sheet)
2.Check for strong spark at plugs. Should hear a sharp snap with spark plug out of cylinder and grounded to engine. The spark should be visible(bluish-white) even in daylight. Try not to get biten by the high voltage or to set stray fuel fumes on fire! (I've done both.)
3. Using manufacturer's directions trouble shoot your new ignition system. If in doubt go back to the points set-up.
4. Check 1. 2. 3. again

C) Compression
1. I've seen H.D. motors run with as little as 95lbs. compression. No compression gauge? Put your thumb over the spark plug opening. Have someone turn the engine over. Good compression should pop your thumb off of the cylinder. Check both cylinders.

D)Oxygen(air)
1. This should be a no brainer!!!

Double check everything. If you find a problem, don't assume it is the only problem. Problems are gengerally a combination of factors, weak spark and marginal fuel quality, for example.

Engines are dumb. With fuel, fire, compression and air it will run. Perhaps poorly without refinements in the fuel, fire, compression and air equation; but it will run. Good luck and happy motoring!

Dr. B
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
First i want to say thanks to all who have given me good advice in this tread. But my bike stil refuses to start:(
- I have a almost new super e, adjustet to factory/standard specs.

- I have instalet a ultima singelfire ign. The ign is set to fire at tdc front syl at the compression stroke ass the manual says.

- I have plenty of power in my battery.

- I have new sparkplugs, and a strong spark while testing to ground.

- I have tryed to use an external fueltank whit no petcoc.

Still nothing, not even a fart....

- I have tryed pooring gasoline straigth in to the plugholes, i have also tryed to use "startgas". When i have done this the engine sneezes out of the carb, but no starting.

I dont wanna nag to much about this, but i dont know what to do next..... Help !! Ps, kick only
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
689 Posts
have you checked the pushrods as mentioned earlier. As the valvetrain wears, the valves beat further into the seats and cause your pushrods to become too tight. You will never get itto start easily with pushrods that are adjusted too tight. Other than that, it sounds like something to do with your timing. have you tried advancing it and seeing if it wants to fire off. If all else fails, throw your points back in it and see if it will run that way. NEW parts ane just parts that Never Even Worked. :D That fancy ignition may have a problem.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top