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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, next is probably a more common question (maybe). im wanting to get the tubes cut about 3" for the stance im after. now, when i take the caps off the fork & let it bottom out, there doesnt seem to be any more room to cut the fork. im thinking, if the tubes are cut and i hit a big bump, the fork will bottom out & the tire will hit the lower tree, stopping it & sending me over the bars into outer space. (ive seen this happen on mountain bike forks when people run too fat of a tire).

i honestly think that the tubes have the pefect amount of travel, i just want them to let the bike sit 3" lower than it is. i could do so by just chopping the springs 3" but then i think the spring rate will be too soft for the travel leftover & it will be too mushy & bottom out too easily. is there a trick to run a shorter, stiffer spring? also, then if the bike is ever unweighted, the legs & wheel would just drop on thier own, all the way back to stock height. would seem like a recipie for disaster on some rollercoaster style roads. ya know? check out the pics & see what you think.




here it is, sitting at 3" lower than stock height.


profile shot:


any input will be greatly appriciated. thanks, in advance.
 

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I would invest in some 3 under forks. Shoot Truth from Choppahead an email..i know he has used some under forks on a couple of their bikes.
 

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Try Forking by Frank in Evanston,Il. They stock tubes and can have them ready in one day. Are you factoring in the weight of the motor. That will drop the forks down a little + your weight on the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
hey, thanks for the response. yes, i thought about the motor + me & i think that would bring it right down to where i want to be with 3" under forks. i talked to forking by franks & they said they'd cut them down for $35 and also cut my springs too.

the part im confused about is: doesnt the length of the tube determine where the fork actually bottoms out. as you can see in the pics, if i get the forks cut 3" - wouldnt that mean the tire would bottom out 3" higher than it already is. this looks like it would make the tire hit the lower tree.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
just thinking out loud.... say if the forks were cut 2 or 3" but the springs were left stock length or maybe cut an inch. making it so i had to compress the spring a couple inches to get the cap on, wouldnt that act as a pre-load adjustment, making the fork a bit firmer as to not bottom out with the shorter travel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
after lying awake last night, it hit me like a brick! since the fork does already bottoms out in the perfect spot with the stock length tubes, i was thinking i could make the fork sit lower by removing 2" from the stock springs AND adding 2.25"-2.5" to the top out springs on the shuttle valves. this would preload the fork a little bit to make it have a little firmer spring rate so it doesnt ride too mushy for the limited travel.

i really think this is the answer to easily lowering my front end. Let me know if you guys think it will/will not work. Thanks!
 

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Are those stock forks? You realize you are seeing the frame with no weight on it at all....those forks will not be that hight once the motor and rider are on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
sojerscraper said:
after lying awake last night, it hit me like a brick! since the fork does already bottoms out in the perfect spot with the stock length tubes, i was thinking i could make the fork sit lower by removing 2" from the stock springs AND adding 2.25"-2.5" to the top out springs on the shuttle valves. this would preload the fork a little bit to make it have a little firmer spring rate so it doesnt ride too mushy for the limited travel.
I did it & it worked out exactly like I planned. I ended up cutting 2 pieces of pipe, 2" long & placing them on top of the top out springs on the shuttle valves. Then, I cut 1.5" from the fork springs so they'd have a lttle more preload than stock. I measured the travel before & after i made the mods & stock was 6.5" and modified is now 4.5". That doesnt account for sag. Thats from the very top to the very bottom of the fork's stroke. So, as mentioned by fellow JJers, accounting for the weight of the motor, gas, oil & my 200lb ass I think i should see about an inch of sag +/-. This will give my bike the exact 'level' stance i was after & i didnt have to get the stock fork tubes cut. Another advantage is that if i want to go higher or lower (or even back to stock), i just have to change the springs out with longer or shorter ones and make longer or shorter pipes to space out the topout spring on the shuttle valve. I took pics & made a crude sketch if anyone is interested.

(reference note, FYI - this is for a 71, 72 triumph fork)
 
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