Wow...looks like one of those 'get on and go' bikes, nice! Doesn't look like you're in for too much of an 'education' here....have fun!
My first step into the Brit bike world...
Well...I've been on the prowl for a year or so for a Triumph or BSA to screw around with. I've had just about everything else over the years but a British bike. Last night, I pulled the trigger on this Triumph. I got it from Madmaxx (hell of a good guy) here on the JJ. It's a damn clean little bike and has had a lot of work done to it. It needs a few, small things but I'm looking forward to messing with it and getting educated on these. I don't know squat about them and any advise is always welcome! Anyways......
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Goldy, it's by far the most complete bike that I've ever bought. Most of mine show up in boxes!! I just don't know anything about the Amal carbs and such as it's the first one that I've had. It's apparently having a charging issue and is popping and backfiring pretty good out the left side. I can't seem to get that carb to "prime" either with the "tickler" so I'm thinking maybe it's a carb issue. It starts easy enough but won't stay running unless you keep on it. I guess it's been sitting a while so maybe just needs to be gone through and run a bit....
Bugsy,
Looks like a post '68 motor(timing plate on primary). Someone reversed the rocker feeds, they should have been on the right side. This probably doesn't matter, I don't know. First time I've ever seen that. Looks like you're running a capacitor system (no battery). Is it EI or points? Amals are very simple to work on and if it was sitting awhile with the shit gas we now get probably need to be pulled apart and cleaned real good. The idle circuit on the carbs are probably blocked. Pull the screw that goes straight into the carb and ream the jet with a .017" wire or drill bit (#76 I believe). The wire in a bread wire tie will work in a pinch. Get yourself a good workshop manual ( no Haynes) and get familiar with the motor.
Remember these motors are basically 1930's technology so don't over think shit.
This forum, Triumphrat.net and Britbike.com are excellent sources of data.
Learn to use the search function cause all these troubles have been discussed at length on all forums.
good luck.
td
Looks like a post '68 motor(timing plate on primary). Someone reversed the rocker feeds, they should have been on the right side. This probably doesn't matter, I don't know. First time I've ever seen that. Looks like you're running a capacitor system (no battery). Is it EI or points? Amals are very simple to work on and if it was sitting awhile with the shit gas we now get probably need to be pulled apart and cleaned real good. The idle circuit on the carbs are probably blocked. Pull the screw that goes straight into the carb and ream the jet with a .017" wire or drill bit (#76 I believe). The wire in a bread wire tie will work in a pinch. Get yourself a good workshop manual ( no Haynes) and get familiar with the motor.
Remember these motors are basically 1930's technology so don't over think shit.
This forum, Triumphrat.net and Britbike.com are excellent sources of data.
Learn to use the search function cause all these troubles have been discussed at length on all forums.
good luck.
td
TD,
Thanks, Man! I appreciate the info. I'm going to get a manual for it soon. I agree about claening the fuel system and carbs out. I'll do that this weekend. It does have a battery (for the lights) on it and it has a magneto for spark. It's titled as a 68 but I'm not 100% sure but I'm sure I can figure it out easy enough. I'm really looking forward to digging into this!
Thanks, Man! I appreciate the info. I'm going to get a manual for it soon. I agree about claening the fuel system and carbs out. I'll do that this weekend. It does have a battery (for the lights) on it and it has a magneto for spark. It's titled as a 68 but I'm not 100% sure but I'm sure I can figure it out easy enough. I'm really looking forward to digging into this!
Whats the motor number? Leave off the last 2.
td
td
Looks decent! Definitely pull those carbs off and thoroughly clean them. It's REALLY easy and nowhere near as involved as pulling the carbs off most other vehicles. It's super important that you use the right size wire or drill to clean the pilots in the idle circuit! You could permanently screw up the orifice of a non replaceable part in your carbs. I'm pretty sure the drill size is a #78 or .016 wire. Verify that before you do anything. Just when you're sure you have that idle circuit completely clog free, clean it again!
When you put the carbs back, keep in mind the nuts that hold them to the manifold should be evenly and lightly torqued. Pretty easy to warp a carb body by overtightening!
Finally, verify the timing.
I've had my share of problems in both areas and it seems like either timing or idle circuit is one of the most common questions around here!
When you put the carbs back, keep in mind the nuts that hold them to the manifold should be evenly and lightly torqued. Pretty easy to warp a carb body by overtightening!
Finally, verify the timing.
I've had my share of problems in both areas and it seems like either timing or idle circuit is one of the most common questions around here!
flypa38 is right on the drill size. You can attach it to a spray nozzle. Obviously it needs to be tight.
One way to mount the carbs is with split lock washers also. Tighten the nut till the lock washer till it flattens and no more. That will help you get a visual gauge on the "torque spec"
One way to mount the carbs is with split lock washers also. Tighten the nut till the lock washer till it flattens and no more. That will help you get a visual gauge on the "torque spec"
Also check out the GABMA website for tech articles be Richard Whatley. Excellent stuff.
bugsy, did that bike come from texas?
can I ask the story of the bike not wanting to leave Madmaxx? lol
THANK YOU all for the carb advice!! I will get them cleaned up this weekend.
TD...The number is DU65272
TD...The number is DU65272
No, it came out of Nebraska. I think it came from Ohio from what i can tell from some of the paperwork.bugsy, did that bike come from texas?
Well, Maxx had the thing running like a top and the night before I got it, the charging system shot craps. Then when we met up yesterday and we got ready to run it, it started popping and running rough. He was sick becuase it had been running perfect that morning! I told him not to sweat it as that's what happens to me everytime I go to sell something. I joked him that the bike didn't want to come home with me!can I ask the story of the bike not wanting to leave Madmaxx? lol
Sick Trumpet! Btw, you in the KC area?
Thanks man! It should be fun! I'm about 100 miles west of KC.Sick Trumpet! Btw, you in the KC area?
On ANY brit bike of that era , go over the entire wiring harness connection by connection and make sure all is tight and clean !
That is the most likely cause of any fireing problem that comes up !!
That is the most likely cause of any fireing problem that comes up !!
Thanks man and will do! I'm going to do that and clean the carbs and tank out real good this weekend. Hopefully that'll do the trick. It's a pretty, simple set up with not a lot to it that I can see so far.On ANY brit bike of that era , go over the entire wiring harness connection by connection and make sure all is tight and clean !
That is the most likely cause of any fireing problem that comes up !!
1967 Numbers ran from DU44394 to DU66245 putting yours near the end of the model run which could explain the timing inspection cover on the primary.
TD...Thanks for checking into that for me. I know the title is original and it's titled off the engine number and states it's a '68. Like you said though, it came toward the end of the '67 year so that would explain a couple of things.1967 Numbers ran from DU44394 to DU66245 putting yours near the end of the model run which could explain the timing inspection cover on the primary.
Is that legal in Kansas?it's titled off the engine number.
Well...It's got a current and clear title out of Nebraska and Kansas will accept it as long as the VIN on the title matches one on the bike or car somewhere. When you get an "assembled" vehicle title here, they will sometimes use the number that's on the engine (car, bike or whatever you have). That then becomes the VIN. I've had them do it that way on a couple of cars that I've built and someties they will just assign a whole, new VIN to it.Is that legal in Kansas?
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