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Yes the screw that has the wire on it is the ground that in the off mode keeps it grounded....Can take off the other end of the wire at the points....

Think it also has the stud on the other side of the housing...That can be wired to a button in order to ground out the mag in turn killing the motor....Or simply dump the clutch at low rpm to kill the motor...
The stud is probably replaced by the key switch on that body.

How long has that mag been sitting? I would probably go for at least a set of points and a condenser, if not a coil to freshen it up and make sure it stays working.
 

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I didn't have a chance to install the magneto over the weekend but would like to try it tonight. Looking for words of advice. From what I've seen, I should bring forward piston up right before TDC and look for timing mark on flywheel. With smaller lobe of distributor shaft slightly before opening points. Anything else I should know?
Thanks for any help.
 

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I didn't have a chance to install the magneto over the weekend but would like to try it tonight. Looking for words of advice. From what I've seen, I should bring forward piston up right before TDC and look for timing mark on flywheel. With smaller lobe of distributor shaft slightly before opening points. Anything else I should know?
Thanks for any help.
Cover the spark plug hole with your finger, turn the motor, and wait for the compression to push your finger off of the hole. Look in your timing hole for marks That should be your front advance timing mark. Some will say retard and have it just entering the window from the left side, the Morris instructions say to center it, I say do whatever works for your bike.

Also, the cracking open of the points can be eyeballed, but the buzz box that Morris sells for like $50 may be one of the easiest, most helpful tools in my box for setting something dead nuts.

http://www.morrismagneto.com/instructions/mm3inst.html
 

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How about 24Volts, will let the smoke out faster.....:eek:

Dawg
That will do it....

I'll bring the Marsh Mellows....:p

I should be able to use a continuity tester in the immediate future to dial in the timing? Thanks Again
You will need to unhook the condenser to do that....
By taking the screw out of the mount (And let dangle, but not grounding) or the wire off the points.

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you can hook the magneto up to your stock key ignition through a relay! basically a standard relay has 2 positions. one open at no volts, one closed at no volts: when you add juice to it, those positions change to the opposite that that were originally. you can test which one is which by using an ohm meter. basically what you want to do is have the mag going through the closed pole with no volts applied. then when you turn the key to "run" the relay then switches the pole off thus letting the magneto run. heres a picture.



86 and 85 is your ignition switch wires(one from "run" or "acc" on ignition, one to ground or light to ground)

30 would be your ground

87A will be your magneto

87 is just nothing
 

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That's not a bad option if you wanted to run a stock ignition switch and a magneto.

Like I said earlier, if you want to key it to an ignition and don't have to use a stock ignition, just use the Pollak with the magneto stud. It doesn't run it into the standard ground or into the hot circuit, there is a dedicated magneto terminal.

http://www.partdeal.com/switches/ig...ine-starter-switch-magneto-push-to-choke.html
 
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