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DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO N-O-T run the grounding wire to your original ignition switch! Read this last sentence again. And then again.
Unless your original switch is a marine Pollak with a magneto specific stud. I'm 99.999999% certain that he's not running one of those though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Magnetos aren't cheap.

Check the points, put in a new coil and a new condensor while you're at it. Hopefully you didn't fuck up the magnet.
Yep they are expensive, I hope I didn't fuck the whole thing !!!

I turn off the key pretty fast, but was it soon enough ???

I'll do that.

Is there a difference between 6v and 12v mag?
 

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Yep they are expensive, I hope I didn't fuck the whole thing !!!

I turn off the key pretty fast, but was it soon enough ???

I'll do that.

Is there a difference between 6v and 12v mag?
The rest of your charging system has nothing to do with the magneto whatsoever. You can run a magneto with no other wires, coils, batteries, regulators, generators, lights, anything. The other stuff is separate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thank a lot to all, the answer to my questions have been so fast, I'm amazed and very confused by my own ignorance...

I'll let you know how it goes from now....
 

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Yep they are expensive, I hope I didn't fuck the whole thing !!!

I turn off the key pretty fast, but was it soon enough ???

I'll do that.

Is there a difference between 6v and 12v mag?
Dude- you fucked the whole thing. At least anything electrical (coil, magnet, and probably points and condensor.

There is no difference between a 6V and a 12V mag because there is no distinction. A mag is a mag is a mag. You can take a mag out of a 6V bike and install it CORRECTLY into a 12V bike and it will work just fine. You apply no external power to the mag thus the mag could give a fuck what voltage the rest of the system operates on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Dude- you fucked the whole thing. At least anything electrical (coil, magnet, and probably points and condensor.

There is no difference between a 6V and a 12V mag because there is no distinction. A mag is a mag is a mag. You can take a mag out of a 6V bike and install it CORRECTLY into a 12V bike and it will work just fine. You apply no external power to the mag thus the mag could give a fuck what voltage the rest of the system operates on.
Ok, thanks again
 

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It's like a child being reprimanded. hahaha

Dude, plenty of people have made plenty of dumbass mistakes, but with something expensive like that you might want to make sure you understand inside out before you go to install it. Blowing shit up when it's not running is one thing, something that fucks up while you're doing 80 down the freeway is another.
 

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I guess so...
I'm afraid that was an expensive lesson of wiring...
No...Not really....You more then likely didn't do any harm to the Mag...

Fix the wire, file the points or replace and a new condenser...Take two paper clips stick in the cap High Tension (Where the spark plug wires go) and give it a kick...You should see a nice Blue arc between the two....

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
It's like a child being reprimanded. hahaha

Dude, plenty of people have made plenty of dumbass mistakes, but with something expensive like that you might want to make sure you understand inside out before you go to install it. Blowing shit up when it's not running is one thing, something that fucks up while you're doing 80 down the freeway is another.
I thought it would be cool to go back to childhood, but now I can tell you, IT'S NOT !

No...Not really....You more then likely didn't do any harm to the Mag...

Fix the wire, file the points or replace and a new condenser...Take two paper clips stick in the cap High Tension (Where the spark plug wires go) and give it a kick...You should see a nice Blue arc between the two....
I was secretly hoping someone will have such words...
at least I'll sleep better tonight (it's 11:15pm here) with a little hope before running to the garage tomorrow...
 

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It would take alot more than what you did to F up the magnet....... But, the coil could be screwed, and most likely the condensor too. And as pointed out the points need cleaned up.

As far as expense, it'd be in your best interest to get a new coil and condensor. If they aren't toast now, they certainly were compromised with your mis-hap and could fail at anytime anyway.

Smoke outa the mag........ Never heard/seen that before :confused:

Sixball
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Today I'm gonna check how much things I damaged.
I'm afraid I don't understand exactly how the kill switch works...
I don't have a morris kill switch, what kind of switch can I use temporary to do my testing and run the bike if parts are not damaged, until I receive a kill switch from morris?
Is a kill swith a switch with 2 permanent positions "on and off" or is it just a permanent "off", with a temporary "on" when you push it and connect it to the ground to kill the bike?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I try to look closely at pictures and it seems to me that the kill switch from Morris is just a piece of flexible metal with a plastic piece to protect your fingers from the sparks, and you just push it to kill the bike by grounding the stud to the body of the mag...

Am I correct or being dumb again?
 

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It is not grounded until you're ready to shut it off and leave it off. Say you just put an open wire connecting one side to the stud and the other to a piece of bare metal. Don't let it touch the metal until you're ready to kill the bike, then when you are ready touch the open end to the grounded metal. You can leave it grounded for security purposes until you're ready to start it again or you can take the ground away once the bike is no longer running. The magneto isn't going to start without the revolutions to charge the magnet. I have one of the aforementioned Pollak switches so when I turn the key off, it grounds the mag and I leave the key in the off position. To start the bike, I turn the key on and it disconnects the ground, closing the circuit on the mag and allowing it to be energized again when I kick it.
 

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The rest of your charging system has nothing to do with the magneto whatsoever. You can run a magneto with no other wires, coils, batteries, regulators, generators, lights, anything. The other stuff is separate.
In Other Words, the Magneto is Completey Separate than the Electrical System to Operate the Lights, Horn, 8 Track Player, etc..
Early Sportsters from 1959 thru 1969 ran Magnetos, Drag Bikes have No Generators just a Magneto to fire the Motor... the ground stud and the insulation around the stud thru the mag body case can fail over time, when trouble shooting this it is process of elimination, you can bypass this ground stud by removing the top cap, then the ground wire.. temporarily tape off the grounding wire, re install mag cap, wires, etc, try to start the bike, I have also seen guys blame a mag only to find that they are running the same plug wires since 1968!! also a crack in the cover that you cannot see with your eyes, good insurance to replace cap and wires..remember, electrical current is always looking to the easiest-most direct path to ground, your job is to get that power to the spark plugs..
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
If it's grounded continuously, you've just opened the circuit and it will never start. It is only grounded when you kill the bike.
It is not grounded until you're ready to shut it off and leave it off. Say you just put an open wire connecting one side to the stud and the other to a piece of bare metal. Don't let it touch the metal until you're ready to kill the bike, then when you are ready touch the open end to the grounded metal. You can leave it grounded for security purposes until you're ready to start it again or you can take the ground away once the bike is no longer running. The magneto isn't going to start without the revolutions to charge the magnet. I have one of the aforementioned Pollak switches so when I turn the key off, it grounds the mag and I leave the key in the off position. To start the bike, I turn the key on and it disconnects the ground, closing the circuit on the mag and allowing it to be energized again when I kick it.
ok, thanks, it's seems clear to me now . (between my poor english and my poor mechanic skills, it's good when things are put in such words!)

Thank to everybody who gave me advices, I'm heading to the garage, and will let you know how many damage i've done...

Vins
 

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I try to look closely at pictures and it seems to me that the kill switch from Morris is just a piece of flexible metal with a plastic piece to protect your fingers from the sparks, and you just push it to kill the bike by grounding the stud to the body of the mag...

Am I correct or being dumb again?
Yes, although the plastic piece is not necessary, I use a feeler gauge bolted to the stud, and just bend it to contact the body of the mag to ground it out and shut the bike off. The voltage is so low you don't feel it.
 
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