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Morris M-5 questions

1708 Views 7 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  morrismags
Hey all,
I know some of you have or have used the M-5 full auto mag. Maybe someone can give me some advice.
I CANNOT figure this thing out. I've installed and run many standard mags and points ignitions, but this one is killing me.
The motor is a 1980 74" Shovel. Keihin carb, solid lifters, stock can. The top end is fresh and never fired.
I set the mag up as normal. Small lobe just starting to open at advance mark on front cylinder. I get nothing except the occasional pop or backfire through the carb. Also seems when I turn the body the whole points cam moves as well.
Can someone give me a start to finish install guide?
Morris is absolutely no help!
Corey
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Corey,
Call Dave or Jesse at Morris Magneto, they would be Happy to assist, low pro guys that been at it since 1969
www.morrismagneto.com
Pull the plugs, rotate the engine by hand with your finger on the FRONT sparkplug hole. When the air pushes your finger off, your front cylinder ADVANCE mark should be comming into the timming hole. Center it and set your points to just breaking on the small lobe.

Then your on the right stroke, check your instructions from there and adjust your timming, to suit your needs, but that should get it running.

Sounds like you may have been 180 out

Sixball
Justre-read your post. Seems like you were on the right stroke (never hurts to start all over though) The M5 requires a different kicking method though. Try a slower kick and not a quick powerfull one. I've setup afew, but it's been years, I'm into the manual ones. I can't remember the whole points plate rotating though, but again, it's been awhile...

Also, the morris site has detailed install instructions if you don't have an instruction sheet handy


Sixball
I'm running the same one on my FLH since 1985. The last time I had it off was in 2005. All I did was follow the directions that it came with in 85. I know its pain, but get back to the directions.
set the housing up per their instructions to align the lower part of the advance coupling correctly.

Then With the mag off the bike, rotate the coupling by hand until it "snaps" on the front cyl (small lobe) then turn it back to where you would normally set the timing(the rotor won't be spring loaded now). Now put the mag on the bike and finish timing it as you normally would. If you accidentally move the rotor too far forward that it engages the coupling again, start over.
set the housing up per their instructions to align the lower part of the advance coupling correctly.

Then With the mag off the bike, rotate the coupling by hand until it "snaps" on the front cyl (small lobe) then turn it back to where you would normally set the timing(the rotor won't be spring loaded now). Now put the mag on the bike and finish timing it as you normally would. If you accidentally move the rotor too far forward that it engages the coupling again, start over.
Yep, That's how I do mine.

& The M5 prefers a slower kick Definitely.

Mine actually starts retarding the timing as the RPM's are increased (timing light). Not a whole lot, maybe 2 or 3 degrees. anyone else encounter this?
The little bit of play in the coupler causes the shell to cock a little, then pulls itself straight when it is running at a good speed. Sometimes we can see 1 degree of movement on the test bench (that's 2 motor degrees). If you wanna compensate and run the timing advanced at lower speeds, go ahead, these mags don't have ping issues.
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