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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've installed my mag and set points gap to start to open when flywheel timing mark is visible center of the view hole. Carb is newly rebuilt bendix idle jet set 1 1/2 turns out from bottom. Have checked pushrod adjustments, they are good. Have checked for mag spark, I have spark. Brand new spark plugs set at .20. Been kicking for two days, getting an occasional pop. Nothing else. MY QUESTION: will the flywheel timing mark show up on another stroke than compression? I set the mark by feeling compression with my thumb over front cylinder spark plug hole, then bumping motor till mark came into view. All thoughts and info are greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Which cylinder are you calling the front? The paperwork I have for my magneto kept saying front and really they meant the cylinder closest to the rear tire. Had the same issue and rotated the engine another time to the timing mark and bike fired right up.

I could be 10 degrees advanced or retarded on my magneto on a cold motor and it would run. Ran like crap but it would run. Same behavior as you when I used the "front" of the bike cylinder.
 

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remove the front cylinder inlet pushrod cover,
turn motor till inlet pushrod closes fully,
then turn it slowly by putting it in gear and rocking the rear wheel forward till the timing mark is central in the timing hole, at this point, with the magneto at FULL ADVANCE the points should JUST be about to open on the narrow cam lobe,
retard to start & you should be good,
IF you are bolting the mag solid at full advance, it will run & pull great but will be a bitch to start without being able to retard the timing,
you can bolt them so they can be turned by hand or cable to advance & retard when in use.
the 'finger on the plug hole' can work, but actually seeing the inlet valve close just before the timing marks visiable is better IMHO,
 

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I had a bike where I timed as you did. Would not fire. Many hairs were pulled from my head.

I then went back to basics and used my service manual's instructions on the timer for the magneto, which looked basically like Pete's.

Then the bike started up and ran.

I believe different cams can lead one to feel "compression" that isn't really there.

Try Pete's way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Which cylinder are you calling the front? The paperwork I have for my magneto kept saying front and really they meant the cylinder closest to the rear tire. Had the same issue and rotated the engine another time to the timing mark and bike fired right up.

I could be 10 degrees advanced or retarded on my magneto on a cold motor and it would run. Ran like crap but it would run. Same behavior as you when I used the "front" of the bike cylinder.
Hmmm...that's interesting. I'm timing on the front cylinder. I'll try what you did and give it a go.
I had a bike where I timed as you did. Would not fire. Many hairs were pulled from my head.

I then went back to basics and used my service manual's instructions on the timer for the magneto, which looked basically like Pete's.

Then the bike started up and ran.

I believe different cams can lead one to feel "compression" that isn't really there.

Try Pete's way.
Thanks for your reply
Are you setting it on the narrow lobe for the front cylinder? whats your points gap?
.15
 

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Hi; I have an static timing magneto and kicked like hell at full advance so I bought the Morris retard kit and after 3 months waiting finally arrived; the "instructions" are confusing with some O rings that have so not installed yet but seems a great solution for kick to start
The point to have a mag is to ride always at full advance not a bit retarded like many does.
 

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full bore running all you need is full advance, but for starting you need to be able to retard the ignition and for a nice slow idle, i use a handlebar mounted advance lever like on Brit bikes from the 40's and 50's and have a nitrogen gas strut to retard it when i want to retard it, works faultlessly with easy starting,
mounting it tight enough to stay where you move it to, but lose enough to retard is how most i know run theirs, then just a twist of the magneto for start or idle,
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...hello man; very interesting solution. Would be good a short clip showing the kick starting; anyway; what about the vibrations and those lose magnetos? I cannot do that in my Triumph so I guess is even worst on an HD; Have an external spring? but still the advance could vary. Seems many rides with a 7/16 wrench
 

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reverb,..... i'm personally not able to kick it as i'm disabled needing 2 new hips & knees but a buddy kicks it to life easy, havent got film of it being kicked to life sadly,
it isnt lose as such, mounted with a very smooth sweep to advance or retard, but in this clip near the end you see the strut pushing it to retard (when my buddy riding it remembered to retard it! ) without it flopping about.
harley shovelhead with morris magneto & a lectron tune - YouTube
 

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Hi Pete; sorry about your situation; I have the shoulders and biceps damaged but pass the years and the fuckin doctors do not want to do the surgery letting me out of my job...
Anyway; really cool the way that the hydraulic rod acts.
I just installed the Morris retard kit and I am about to kick it. What I do not understand is that the instructions say to put the points max gap at 0.019 when always that gap is between 0.012-0.015
May be is to have more "room"? With that gap the new timing let the mag body to one side. (Triumph 750)
 

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Yes, the timing mark can show up i the timing hole when when the front cylinder on the exhaust stroke too ( the engine will be 180 degrees out of time in this instance). It is essential that you're on the compression stroke and the best way to determine this , as has been stated, is to remove the front intake pushrod cover and turn the engine until the lifter drops ( when the front intake valve closes). Then very slowly turn the engine over until the narrow lobe on the points cam begins to approach the point fibre--but before it actually arrives there. At this point continue a very gentle, slow rotation of the engine and watch for the flywheel timing mark to enter the timing hole. Once in the center of the hole and the piston on the compression stroke, you are ready for the final adjustment of the mag. You can use a buzz box or test light at this point . Rotate the mag, until the points just barely begin to open, setting off the light or buzz box. Then tighten down the mag. I used set the mag points gap at about .016" and the plugs can be set from '018" to '020". Another thing to look at is your pushrod adjustement.
 

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You can use a buzz box or test light at this point .
I don't recall what it was you're working on, Mr. Garey, but if you have a Big Twin with a mag, odds are excellent you won't be able to use a test light because you can't access the screw to disco the condenser.

If you don't have a buzz box, get one—you'll need it.
 
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