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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i'v got a stock 80" evo with accel charging setup, simple chopper wiring.my ? is ever since it got cool out side (cold for so-cal). my battery loses charge,(bike is stored outside under tarps).some times i need the charger on it,to get it going on a cold start.my head light is low but after warm up it gets brighter,then dim at idle then bright when i gas it. is my charging set going out or is it a dead battery?
 

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Another sick electrical system...and an apology if this sounds like a thread ripoff. But what are bad battery symptoms?

My 80" evo ran strong. Then, when ever you hit any draw, lights, brakelights etc, you can watch the gauge needle jump to the negative. Two year old HD battery. Runs after charge, until it goes dead.

I'm thinking short or bad battery. Where do Johnie and I start looking?

And thanks...you too Johnie.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i was thinking bad batt to. but the electical system is new,regulater,stator,batt. no more then 200 miles on it.and whats up with the headlight, dim at idle then gets brighter at throttle.i'v had people tell me that when the headlight is doing that,it just a sign of the system charging. dont know if that true or not?
 

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When you say "new" was the whole system matched? You need the correct regulator for the stator and vice versa. What kind of fuses/circuit breakers are you using? You may have too much draw and now with the colder weather the battery isn't able to hold the charge (sub standard charge) that it was able to in the warmer weather. What kind of battery? Sealed or not?

It could be the battery, but you need to check and make sure your giving the battery the correct charge while the bike is running.

Sixball
 

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with Sixball.. stator is not producing enough amperage to supply or recharge the battery. possibly a cell shook loose in the battery (happens even if they are sealed), rubber through insulation on stator, regulator not properly grounded..

test battery by placing voltmeter leads on their respective terminals of the battery, run bike at 2000 rpm for xl and 3000 for b/t
Should be 13.5-15 VDC

unplug stator and start bike, test stator side of plug pin to pin on should produce 16-20 VAC per 1000 rpm. test at 1000, 2000 and 3000 rpm
Test stator resistance with bike off and voltmeter leads to sockets/pins on stator side of plug, should read 0.1-0.3 ohms of resistance, if it reads OFL its junk...
Test stator ground with bike off, stator side of plug test each pin to the chassis for ground, should read OL or OFL, infinite resistance.

regulator ground tested by touching bare metal on regulator body or probing the ground to chassis wire terminals, should read less than 1 ohm
 

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First things first - if you don't have a carbon-pile load tester, check the standint battery voltage. The battery is the heart of the system - nothing will ever go right with a bad battery. Should be 12.4 or greater. If not, charge and re-check. Wipe the "surface charge" by putting the headlight on for 30 seconds or so after you charge it. If the battery still shows under 12.4, STOP. Do not continue testing. Replace battery, then continue. This does not necessarily mean you're out of the woods, but it's a quick and easy home-check.

As mentioned earlier, the genny/alternator/stator needs to be putting out 13-14.6 volts. If it is doing that after the battery checks out good, we need to do a voltage drop test across the charge and ground wires.

Let me know where you're at after that.

-L.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
cool all sounds like what i'm after. okay the system is a 32 amp accel complete kit.the batt. is the weak link in it, an a.t.v one from pep boys not sealed. befor the cold i was geting 14v at 3000 rpm. but now i only get 10v. will running this low batt. fuck up the system(if it hasen't already).
 

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If you're only reading 10V at 3000 RPM, you have a charging system problem. ChopperArn laid out the testing procedures for you quite well. If it passes all the stator tests, it's the regulator. Note in his post that many of the tests are in AC voltage.
 

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check the battery acid level, and you can pull the dope sticker off the sealed ones and pry out the plugs. This is a regular maintance check as you cook the water out of them if you ride it hard or you have no accessories. If you ran it till the motor was running bad you have cooked the regulator and maybe the stator. 10 volts is not working.
 

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regulator bleed...

one more quick check would be regulator bleed...

perform this with a dc voltmeter or a test light...or just by touching your regulator plug pins to the engine mounting bolts & look for a spark...

set your meter to VDC & place the pos lead onto one of the regulator pins, the neg lead onto a good ground, max allowable is around 2vdc, however normally you should see less than 1vdc, if you're near battery voltage your regulator diodes have failed & its time for a new regulator, make sure you check each regulator pin independently, one could read fine & the other could leak voltage. ;) pretty common issue!
 

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I have the same charging system on my 73 shovel, and it boils the battery dry. No accessories on mine, except lights. I keep the battery topped off, and it works fine. If you are low, add only distilled water, found at any food store. Ground problems can also give you the same symptoms. As stated above, check regulator ground, and the battery ground. Rubber mounted motors are more prone to this, unless you have a good ground from frame to motor. Alternators have to have 12 volts to start the charging system, so when you test, make sure the battery is fully charged. A load tester is the best test for the battery, since it replicates the starter draw on the battery. Most auto parts stores will load test free. Not to mention, the spacing of the rotor from the stator. If you did not space the rotor, it may be rubbing the stator, and chewing up the wires.
 
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