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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ran across this pic in reference to a bike for sale (that I can't afford anyway). Wanted to run these numbers past the experts. I *thought* that a '47 Knucklehead number would have 9's where the back was straighter. It just doesn't look right to me. The pad doesn't look welded or altered, but the numbers look funny. I don't have much experience with this stuff, anyone care to comment yea or nay? Trying to stay sharp on the offhand chance I run across a 'deal' some day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Actually, looking at it again the numbers are too small and the 4 should be open at the top, not closed. They've gotta be bad numbers, right? It's a shame, and weird, since it's on an otherwise fairly original bike that the owner is asking serious money for.
 

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Bad numbers, wrong size, and look real close, you can see that the pad was ground and possibly welded.....

.....Roach.
 

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Here are a couple of 1947 numbers I trust, for your comparison. The open-topped number 4 started in 1943.
The numbers on that bike in question, here, are hilarious.



 

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go to caimag.com and look at chris haynes factory number reference knucks and pans. lotts to learn about factory numbers. dont get burned, lotts of scams with knucks out there on e-bay. 9 out of ten are hillarious!!!!
Here are a couple of 1947 numbers I trust, for your comparison. The open-topped number 4 started in 1943.
The numbers on that bike in question, here, are hilarious.
Here is the link to Chris Haynes website: http://www.vintageamericanmotorcycles.com/v/Numbers/

In addition to the mention of caimag, the panhead forum is also a good source for posts with numbers. Here is one of them:
http://www.hydra-glide.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9406

And yeah, as everyone has mentioned, the numbers from the original post are bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I messaged the guy and he said they're replacement cases done in the 60's and restamped by a dealer. I wish the dealers had used some sort of system to distinguish legit replacements/restamps from theft/restamps. I don't suppose there's any way to test the validity of this without having the case acid tested to see if there are any other numbers under there?
 

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I messaged the guy and he said they're replacement cases done in the 60's and restamped by a dealer. I wish the dealers had used some sort of system to distinguish legit replacements/restamps from theft/restamps. I don't suppose there's any way to test the validity of this without having the case acid tested to see if there are any other numbers under there?
Any belly numbers? Paper trail?
 

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The Factory replacement cases ive seen usually have only a 2 or 3 digit belly number. not the full 147-xxxx or whatever it may be.
 

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I messaged the guy and he said they're replacement cases done in the 60's and restamped by a dealer. I wish the dealers had used some sort of system to distinguish legit replacements/restamps from theft/restamps. I don't suppose there's any way to test the validity of this without having the case acid tested to see if there are any other numbers under there?
Line of Bull!!! The dealer stamps were the same as the factory, no diference, I have seen a couple of sets.

Still bad and like I said, under the sand/glass beed job you can see where the pad has been modifide by grinding and welding, so the acid test would just show it has been modifide and stolin.....

.....Roach.
 

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Roach is correct. When I worked for both Dudley Perkins HD and Sid Gray HD I not only saw, but used dealer stamps. Both places had two sets, early and late numbers and letters. They were identical to the factory numbers.

Both of these shops took great care in making sure the correct late or early system was used on replacement cases. However, that was not always the case at other shops.

Hank
 

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Who cares anyway. As long as the law says they are OK, then buy it. Make sure you keep old mate's details though.
 
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