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StraightPipez said:
I used a fifties step-side tailight and replaced the bulb with a 48 LED cluster from Radiantz. (www.radiantz.com) We removed the existing socket and siliconed the new puck in. Works great.
Oh and for the plate light I'm going to use a lighted bolt from Speedway. I have to buy a pair, want the other one? I don't think they will mix colors on the LED board.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hmmm... interesting idea on replacing the guts all together. I have a feeling the bottom lense bulb will be more challenging though because of the taper of the housing and the little room to work with. I'll look into that.

Has anyone ran an LED tail light without a battery? I'm just running a Joe Hunt and an alternator. No cap, no battery. Am I going to have any problems making the switch, as far as the amprage that's being pulled or whatever?

Wow Rich! That guy wants an arm and a leg for that conversion kit! DAMN! Probably rules though...
 

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You don't need LEDs IMO. I bought some super high intensity halogen bulbs from Bob Drake for my '36 coupe. They were $9 each and they are BRIGHT. They get hot too. Paint the inside of your bucket white. That makes a huge difference, even with normal bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the tip. I may try that first. What if I actually polished the inside to a mirror reflection?
Django said:
You don't need LEDs IMO. I bought some super high intensity halogen bulbs from Bob Drake for my '36 coupe. They were $9 each and they are BRIGHT. They get hot too. Paint the inside of your bucket white. That makes a huge difference, even with normal bulbs.
 

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Nope. Paint it white. Sounds silly when a headlight is chrome, and a headlight is certainly bright. White. Comes up on the HAMB every now and then. Against my better judgement, I was going to try to build a 3rd brakelight out of a bullet bike light on my coupe that looked authentic, but I don't need it. When I get to that point, I'm running a '36 light on the Sporty too, same setup.
 

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Has anyone ran an LED tail light without a battery? I'm just running a Joe Hunt and an alternator. No cap, no battery. Am I going to have any problems making the switch, as far as the amprage that's being pulled or whatever?.
That could be an issue. When my battery was shit and got real low, the first thing to go out was my taillight.
 

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scootermcrad said:
Hmmm... interesting idea on replacing the guts all together. I have a feeling the bottom lense bulb will be more challenging though because of the taper of the housing and the little room to work with. I'll look into that.

Has anyone ran an LED tail light without a battery? I'm just running a Joe Hunt and an alternator. No cap, no battery. Am I going to have any problems making the switch, as far as the amprage that's being pulled or whatever?

Wow Rich! That guy wants an arm and a leg for that conversion kit! DAMN! Probably rules though...
The Lambert stuff is good, and if you have a warranty problem, he is great to work with.

You have to remember that's for a pair, and if you call him, and tell him it's for a bike, he'll sell you one. You also get clear LED's on the board positioned for the license plate window, to light the plate. You just have to tell him that's the board you need.

On running it with a magneto, that I don't know firsthand, but some guys have told me the LED's don't work with them.

I do know if you have a "blue dot" in your lens, that it won't light up blue with the red LED's, it will turn into a black spot. The "blue dot" you see in LED lights are actually blue LED's.

I also agree on painting the inside of the tail lamp housings white - and flat white at that, regardless if it's a LED setup, or a regular filiment-type. Gloss white doesn't seem as bright, and silver tends to "soak up" the reflection. Chrome is almost as bad as silver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for your insight Rich. I didn't even think about the blue dot thing (which I have). Of course it's going to become a black dot! DOH! White LEDs are going to be a must then. Sounds like I may not be able to run them anyway though since I'm not running a battery or cap.

I think I'm going to start by painting the inside with flat white and keep using my incadescents for now. Maybe the white will help a bit. I don't think they're necessarily dim or anything either. Just trying to get things as bright as possible. If I'm going to run lights, then you might as well see them, right?

I'll start with what I've got.
Irish Rich said:
The Lambert stuff is good, and if you have a warranty problem, he is great to work with.

You have to remember that's for a pair, and if you call him, and tell him it's for a bike, he'll sell you one. You also get clear LED's on the board positioned for the license plate window, to light the plate. You just have to tell him that's the board you need.

On running it with a magneto, that I don't know firsthand, but some guys have told me the LED's don't work with them.

I do know if you have a "blue dot" in your lens, that it won't light up blue with the red LED's, it will turn into a black spot. The "blue dot" you see in LED lights are actually blue LED's.

I also agree on painting the inside of the tail lamp housings white - and flat white at that, regardless if it's a LED setup, or a regular filiment-type. Gloss white doesn't seem as bright, and silver tends to "soak up" the reflection. Chrome is almost as bad as silver.
 
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