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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have recently acquired a 1967 Triumph TR6R with the external springs telescopic forks. Well even though it is a hardtail, it's the ride from the front that has been a real surprise, the forks just seemed to bounce over the bumps and every ripple in the road made my teeth rattle. So I thought I would check the oil levels and opened up the drain plugs, pushed up and down on the forks a few time and......well, nothin, completely empty, both legs. So I replaced the drain plugs, taking care to replace the fibre washers and used a little plumbers tape just to make sure they were oiltight, unscrewed the cap nuts and filled each leg with a 10w fork oil (190cc in each leg). The left leg seemed ok but oil from the right leg started to drip steadily onto the floor. It's not coming from the drain plug but it's dripping of the end of the spindle cap. So looking at my parts manual I see there is a flanged bolt (part 43 on the diagram below).



I assume this is screwed up into the fork leg under the axel? Is this the most likely place for a leak? Is it common for these to leak? I assume it's a simple job to fix but just a pain in the arse to get to as I will have to remove the front wheel. Anything else I need to look out for?
Thanks guys!
 

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I assume it's a simple job to fix but just a pain in the arse to get to as I will have to remove the front wheel. Anything else I need to look out for?
Thanks guys!
look over to the right on your diagram more # 42 restrictor is what # 43 flanged bolt screws into, that is the real pain in the arse, you need to dismantle the fork and use a long extension to grab it, I use a spark plug socket with a rubber insert.
I would put it up on a stand with the wheel off first and check where the drip is coming from, I have seen one with a helicoil in the end cap thread, there must not be much metal up in there because when it was drilled and tapped it just broke through allowing a leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I removed the front wheel and the flanged bolts literally dropped right out of both legs...the bolts were covered in layers of liquid cement so I guess this has been an ongoing problem. I guess I will need new lower legs or maybe I will just get a whole knew front end, I prefer the look of the later early 70's style forks anyhow, it will give me something to do over the winter!
 

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There are many reasons to ditch a stock Triumph front end (they aint pretty, they don't work that well & they are kind of simple and cheap)
A bolt, washer and restrictor that cost less than 10 bucks are not included in those reasons
And remember, they are cool because they aint pretty, they don't work that well & they are kind of simple and cheap
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, so I have ordered 2 new bolts, 2 new washers and two new restictors. Do the bolts thread straight into the restictors? so I don't need to worry about any thread at the bottom of the fork leg? Also, can I just remove the fork sliders to fix this or do I need to remove the forks from the bike completely?
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I would have disassembled before ordering parts, there's a change to that stuff in '68. A late '67 could have the later shuttlevalves. Or it could be a later front end. TT internals for those years are different yet. It helps to check the thread pitch at the top fork tube nuts. Also check your drain plugs, earlier ones have an extended end that acts as an anchor to keep the restrictor from turning. This can be broken off. Dave.
 

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I would have disassembled before ordering parts, there's a change to that stuff in '68. A late '67 could have the later shuttlevalves. Or it could be a later front end. TT internals for those years are different yet. It helps to check the thread pitch at the top fork tube nuts. Also check your drain plugs, earlier ones have an extended end that acts as an anchor to keep the restrictor from turning. This can be broken off. Dave.
Good Point, though 68 fork lowers are totally different, and even if its been retrofitted with later internals, the bolt washer and restrictor will stop it leaking if the bolt is "falling out" as mentioned

though a strip down to look for other worn parts would probably be wise.

chassy55 you can just remove the sliders, a set of bushes might be an idea to have on hand too whilst you have the forks apart, even if not needed they aint going to break the bank
 

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Good Point, though 68 fork lowers are totally different, and even if its been retrofitted with later internals, the bolt washer and restrictor will stop it leaking if the bolt is "falling out" as mentioned
I don't know of any noticible differences in those lower legs until disassembled, even then it's just a pilot in the threads at the very top of the tube to engage the o-rings used in 68-later seal holders. But the later restrictors will not work in '67 front ends unless fork tubes are changed.
 

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I don't know of any noticible differences in those lower legs until disassembled
I cant tell 68/69 apart visually, usually have to check the thread on the cap nut for a clue on if its going to have shuttle valves or not.

67 as Oru4 has pictured are hard to confuse with the 68/69 as the bottom member and cap are a totally diffrent shape.

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Okay, so I have removed the lower legs and guess what?...no restrictor in either leg. So my question is, did all the 67-69 year forks have restrictors, even those with a shuttle valve? I thought I had '67 forks but maybe you can help me identify these? Do they look like 1967 forks? and should they have a restrictor?



These are the restrictors I bought, they are 11/16ths at their widest and about 2 1/2 inches high, are these correct for these forks?



Final question, the holes in the bottom of the sliders for the flanged bolts (which screw up into the restrictors) are way too big for the bolts so I think they may have been tapped out larger at some point. I was thinking that as long as I can screw them up into the restrictors so they are nice and tight and then seal up the gaps with plumbers tape and instant gasket and they form a nice seal, I should be ok, what do you think? It's not the way I usually like to do things but I do not want to helicoil.
 

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Those are the correct restrictor for that bearing nut, what you can see looks correct for 67. Even without removing that lower bearing, you can logically assume the stanchion is correct, because that bearing nut would not screw into the later stanchion (different thread)

The bolt should be a sliding fit in the bottom member but it shouldn't be loose, it is not intended to screw into the bottom member, it screws into the restrictor (there shouldn't even be a thread in the bottom member, adding a helicoil is only going to remove more metal & make matters worse). I don't think thread tape will help, I think you need at least an engineering sealant/adhesive locktite ect.

Personally I probably would have replaced the bearings, damping sleeve and seals, just looking at the pics they all look pretty worn.

You mentioned you were using 10w fork oil, It pays to remember these forks were designed to use engine oil in the 20W, 20W/40 range, yours have some worn and leaky components, just like a worn and leaky engine, I would be thinking about going heavier rather than lighter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
After the good advice you gave me, I decided to completely refurbish the front end of my 1967 TR6R. I bought new stanchions, new top and bottom bushes, new seals, new washers, O-rings, seal holders, plastic sleeves and restrictors.


I have run into two problems. The first is that the 'O' rings (97-2119) (part 27 above) do not fit into the new seal holders, they are way too big!

Secondly and more serious is that the thread on the seal holders is different to that on the lower fork legs! Did the thread on the seal holder change at any time? I am pretty sure they are '67 lower legs and the new parts are labelled as being correct. Any ideas?
 
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