Jockey Journal Forum banner

21 - 40 of 41 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
700 Posts
Mongolikebikes!

I have been a shop proprietor for over thirty years,
and I produce carburetor floats for vintage American motorcycles by my own hand.

If I do not keep up on modern P4gas, I soon might not be able to buy my next breakfast.

....Cotten
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
4,033 Posts
RedKote's the only shit I've ever had any longevity out of. It's a can of crap that will kill the shit out of any flora or fauna on God's green earth, which is probably good.

As other guys mentioned - full tank of gas negates the need for a liner... but if you're asking about a liner, you're probably past that point.

Hard to find RedKote these days, it seems, but it's out there...

-L.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
399 Posts
Folks,

I lost a couple of thousand dollars trying POR-15.
"15" stands for "fifteen minutes."
(I test sealers, adhesives, and other goobers annually, and POR-15 is the first to slough off!: second attachment, the stuff fallen loose at the bottom left is POR-15)

Diligas!
If your new tank is porous, it is a piece of crap, duh.

It ain't the ethanol alone folks,
It is all the nasty other additives combined with ethanol on the side.
The safest approach is to have a solid tank with no sealer needed.
Even seasoned sealers can suddenly self-destruct (first attachment).

You never know what will come out of the next pump, this season, or the next.

...Cotten
What does that giant nut sack have to do with tank liners???

I was about to use a kreem kit, but now you guys have me reconsidering. Even if I have slight rust in my tank would it still not be worth using the red pad shop liner??
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
4,033 Posts
'Slight rust' is a vague term.

If you've just got a little spot here and there, fill 'er up with muriatic acid and water (50/50 works well for me), and slosh around after taping all holes. Be careful! That shit will burn you. I pitch some nuts and bolts in there, too, to help loosen up scale and crap.

Rinse well, and dry. Surface rust will start forming immediately. Slosh some tranny fluid or oil in there, roll it around to coat it, then dump. When you're ready, re-install it. Fill it with fuel, and keep it filled!

I had luck with that method when I have not used RedKote. Someone older and smarter will probably be around to give you a better way of doing things.

-L.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
I don't get the whole tank lining thing. Even if it is the best liner ever it seems like one more thing that can become a problem down the road.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
815 Posts
I've steered away from linings so far. I have wondered about zinc coating, someone mentioned that, but I've never looked into it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
887 Posts
Another thing that hasn't been brought up, are the tiny pieces that peel off and wrap around your petcock screen.

Then your on the side of the road jackin with your carb, looking at your ignition, changing spark plugs, kicking your ass off........... all BEFORE you realize it's not getting fuel


Sixball
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
726 Posts
ELIZABETH RADIATOR in Elizabeth NJ, has a great rep for tank lining amongst the vintage car guys......dunno if its the proprietary coating or the fact that they prolly COOK THE `ELL OUT OF IT in a hot caustic soda tank! we use to do this at the radiator shop i worked at as a kid...[back when you could REPAIR a radiator instead of buying some plastic/alum pc o junk!] those things would come out so clean and bright that you could solder them up with a zippo and a lead fishing weight! it MAY just be the prepwerk, but i`v never had any luck with KREEM! the only thing that KREEM EVER sealed up for me was filters,screens and my main jets!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
180 Posts
I did a set of tanks back in 1995 with por15 they still are in perfect shape no peeling it has 56,000 on the speedo and a lot of fuel ran through it,I also had a set of tanks tin lined it's a zinc coating done by a company called Archer tinning the finnish is what you see on a meat grinder just a real shinny finnish,its all over the tank inside and out the tanks are submerged in the zinc,the threads had to be redressed with a die,the owner told me he does alot of older tanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I never say this but...this thread subject has been overdone. Search.
Duh! You think I didnt? I want fresh opinions! Im learning things that arent in the other threads here. No such thing as too much info !!! Believe me,I am GREATFULL for all the posts! This may just save my ass! So bear with me dude!:cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,698 Posts
it's the same shit over and over again:

Kreem is good, Kreem sucks. You're an idiot if you like Kreem, you're and idiot if you don't. Why use Kreem or any tank sealer at all. Kreem sucks but use brand X instead cause it's the balls and anyone who disagrees with me is an asshole.

Thread after thread, time and time again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,065 Posts
Folks,

I lost a couple of thousand dollars trying POR-15.
"15" stands for "fifteen minutes."
(I test sealers, adhesives, and other goobers annually, and POR-15 is the first to slough off!: second attachment, the stuff fallen loose at the bottom left is POR-15)

Diligas!
If your new tank is porous, it is a piece of crap, duh.

It ain't the ethanol alone folks,
It is all the nasty other additives combined with ethanol on the side.
The safest approach is to have a solid tank with no sealer needed.
Even seasoned sealers can suddenly self-destruct (first attachment).

You never know what will come out of the next pump, this season, or the next.



...Cotten
I hate liver.
 
21 - 40 of 41 Posts
Top