[Heavy.clutch]

Hi, i have a 76 ironhead which has been converted to electronic ignition the problem is i have just cooked a 3rd coil for what reason i dont know.
The ignition system is from a 80s sportster.the bike has been rebuilt couple years ago so everything is kind of new.The first 2 coils where accel super coils the 3rd was dynatec dynamite coil both where 3ohm for the electronic points, would my module be the cause of the problem.

 

[DarkGoat]

Is the coil getting power directly from the battery or does it get power from a switch, or curcuit breaker. It should be switched power.

 

[shovithead]

Ohms test your ground, and make sure the timing plate is good and tight. A bad ground can cause a high amp spike. EI hates spikes.

Ditto on Dark Goat too.

 

[Friday]

^^ thats true x2 , but obviously hes got plenty much juice going in the primary and hes blowing the secondary....3 x !! the module is either gen more pri Volts or coils wrong , Id suspect module. can only swap and see.
the modules not showing any signs of dying without a fight.

Id try a stock coil for that 80s model

 

[gasketscraper]

I love points.

 

[Friday]

points still rule, be surprised how much joules energy ,caps have.

 

[Heavy.clutch]

^^ thats true x2 , but obviously hes got plenty much juice going in the primary and hes blowing the secondary....3 x !! the module is either gen more pri Volts or coils wrong , Id suspect module. can only swap and see.
the modules not showing any signs of dying without a fight.

Id try a stock coil for that 80s model

How can i check the module
By the part numbers on the module and sensor and a 3 ohm coil its all pretty much stock.

 

[Friday]

There is the possibility that youve got a new paint job??

The module needs a good earth or it can have a floating voltage , you could be looking at 24 volts or if theres oscillation, 36v, 48v bang!!
with out effecting the module......because its floating!

Maybe it could be swapped for a known good 1 which confirms yours is the problem but Im guessing you get up and run then eventually it dies , thats why Id suspect an earth problem.

Some times ign problem can be from isolated handle bars not earthing , (diff story)
but Id try star washers on the module then multimeter the continuity be tween module surface and rest of bike, engine heads or what ever.

Some times guys put an engine in a fresh painted frame with out scaping the paint away =quite common.

 

[Heavy.clutch]

No new paint on this bike,everything is ground good,maybe the black box under the seat thats causing my problems, im thinking i might go for a entire new ignition system.I have read heaps of posts and looked on ebay and other forums but cant make up my mind on which one,Any help would be appreciated.

 

[TDWZ28]

Point type ignition. Clean, simple, reliable. They have been around for decades. They work. Can be repaired on the side of the road.

 

[shovithead]

Points are my favorite. For what you pay for the module, you could tune up your bike for years, using points. Even though some on here swear by EI, they swear at EI, when they go bad. Points on the other hand are cheap and easily diagnoised and replaced. Never burnt up a coil with points, and they only need attention about once or twice a year, depending on how much you ride it. The only way to burn a set of points, is to leave your key switch on, with the points in the closed position. But even then, it is less than a few minutes to change, and in a pinch, you can file them down and limp home. Or just carry a spare set in your tool bag. I am sure there will be the same kind of thread, about EI, but they still can't come close to the price of replacement, unless they own a EI company.

 

[gasketscraper]

Plus 1, on all the above. EI is some times desirable if you are running a hotrod high compression, possibly stroked, and bored etc. Engine, so you can play with rear cylinder timing with a single fire. BUT even then I would carry an advance flyweight, points condenser etc. etc. to do A roadside conversion. Spent a cold miserable night on the edge of the road once. Never again! The EI literally exploded when a ground came loose.

 

[Friday]

No one can say a bad thing about points , Ive got a crane set up I put back in the box from paranoia....running points ever since

What if its simply the charging circuit?
original set up = batt , gen , v reg , points + 5 ohm coil . ......now theres a 3 ohm coil in the very same set up. maybe over voltage from cut out /v reg.

You can get any HD manual thru public library also s+s, turbos, super charging ... Ive had a squiz in the past, so you might want to check out the sporty manual for that ign youve got

Obviously the weak link at the moment is the coil x 3, the modules still alive!

 

[Heavy.clutch]

Got all the manuals but nothing really about trying to fix the problem , rebuilt engine 1000km ago, been rewired new regulater, new generater, the charging system is good.Can the black box be eliminated if i go points.
Friday where in nz are you.

 

[gasketscraper]

Damn Straight! Points and the necessary wiring are dirt simple. No module needed or required!

 

[TDWZ28]

Rivera makes a nice SS advance unit. I have had good luck with the HD points and condensor. I use genuine HD points plate also. On some engines, they will not time-up correctly with the after-market plates. Even with the HD ones, sometimes you have to make the slots on the plate a little longer to be able to get the timing dead-nuts on. I don't think you will regret going to the old fashioned stuff. Like I said earlier, they work.

 

[Friday]

**Worlds bottom?...= Auckland

that tells us the bike came with it . I had alook thru manual , no doubt BT had same and theres no mention of over voltage or coil destruction , theres numbers on impedance and voltage using HD adapter , the BT has 3 pin , another model has 3 pin + black earth wire. youve got that info .

Replacing and going to points is straight forward the only grubby bit is the timing light . Whole kit = coil , points , leads . neva fail.

I used to have a blue flame points ...(name by memory) , it had copper parts and a hole in the centre of the contacts .

Interested to know the problem youve got tho , anyone want a bullet proof module?

 

[Heavy.clutch]

Thanks for your help guys,friday if you want to know what the issue is feel free to pop around some time im in massey,cant do much at the moment till after xmas,no riding for me this summer, damn

 

[Friday]

As a last ditch effort ..have you measured the resistance of your leads??

I just measured my crane set up. revtech coil 2.8 pri , 23900 sec and crane 8.5mm ** reactive core leads = 570 + 1900 ohms , you have to have the right ones for electronics. 26500 all up

My points = revtech 22900 sec , ** .8 ohms for the leads = solid copper

If by chance youve got wrong leads that ll stuff it. 3 x coils = toast but whats changed over all? same module....same sensor....same LEADS!!!

worth checking out that 1. take 5 minutes.