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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok,
I have been scouring this board and have participated in the Hunt mag thread with a lot of good advice given, but I still can't get this thing to run more than 15 seconds..

Specs
68 Bonnie bottom
71 top, Big bored to a 750. Top end has been rebuilt and looks to be rebuilt well when I tore into it.
Brand new amal 932s
compression is good
spark is solid (on either ignition system)

Valves are set, timing has been set with timing tool, double checked with a ruler, flashlight.

Brand new Joe hunt mag. Tried cutting the bolt cam bolt down, loctite, removed the pin in the camshaft. Gapped it right. Sometimes it starts, but as I said it putters out and when I go to kick it again it kicks back violently so it's obviously slipping out of time.

Many educated fellows suggested to ditch the Hunt and try a Boyer so I did....
specs on that.

Boyer high output ( blue box) with a new podtronics regulator. Positive ground wired correct with a full size 12 volt battery. Timing set, boyer set on clockwise hole and i get an occasional sputter and backfire

Now here's the catch, when this thing does kick over from time to time it sounds fucking awesome. I am at a loss on what to do and want to ride this damn thing.

I have no where to bring it around here either and I'm at the point of throwing money at people to get this thing going. I have a lot invested and just don't know where to go at this point. Any help would be appreciated

Bike's almost done cosmetically while I wait on new parts to try to start the damn thing I have been redoing it.
amen frame, narrow old springer waiting in the corner of my garage, new mk2 on the back with a converted harley 16 with triumph stock brake and modded axle., new seat, vintage p pad, twisted sissy on the way, original lucas taillight, all I have to do it paint the tank and apply some original triumph decals I scored
 

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It appears your Christian ignition and your paint job are at odds. :rolleyes:
Robbie
 

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Have you tried to narrow it down to the three basics yet? Dont over-think it. Fuel / Air /Ignition. Try putting some fuel in a spray bottle and misting it into the carb when it does fire or have a buddy help you. Eliminate them one at a time. If you use a spark tester (like from Harbor Freight) try to avoid using the neon tube type. They take very little voltage to light and can give you false security. Weak spark? What color is it? Post as much information as you can. Coil type? Single coil dual output 12V ? Are you getting spark out of both towers? Whats the voltage to the boyer box? Is your stator plate mounted all the way into the recess? The questions could go on and on ? Thats why i say start with air, eliminate that, then fuel, eliminate that, and on to the most complex issue, ignition.

My guess is fuel related ...... but ive been wrong a few times in my life before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
-dual output single coil..

-carbs tickle fuel and are brand new

-petcock is brand new

-tried different gas in case that was shit

-tried starter fluid ( that just causes some backfire)

plugs are new, spark is blue.. firing strong on both towers

it doesn't make sense to me, my best guess is that my cam is screwed up because of the sporadic starts I sometimes get that die out. Problem is that I'm new to Brit bikes and from what I read cams aren't something you just want to jump into.

stator plate and recess I haven't checked. it seems pretty damn secure in there but I'll check it tomorrow.
 

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Were the timing gears ever off that bike ? Just because the wheel shows the proper timing doesn't necessarily mean its timed right if the gears are installed off. Also, i will caution you that because something is "new" doesn't mean they are ok or set up correctly. Are you timing it with a crank lock tool? Timing side wheel? or the primary pin? The reason i mentioned the stator plate recess is because that actually happened to mine. The plate wasn't seated completely causing an excessive distance between my magnets and the stator plate giving me a sporadic spark. Seems stupid but i guarantee that your problem is also probably something stupid. My buddy recently tried to start his shovel head for a week until he realized he drained the gas last season. Maybe the plug wires are not far enough in the towers? Check all the stupid stuff. Spend about an hour unplugging and replugging wiring to make sure your connections are good. Grounded wiring etc. My bike has kicked my ass many weekends with dumb little problems and continues to do so. Sounds like the majority of your components are the right stuff. It has to be something simple or over-looked.
 

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Ditto the above--it's something simple: cam timing, ignition timing, carbs messed up. Stick with the basics, let the manual be your bible.
 

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Hows the throttle slide height ,and are the slides synchronised to open together,go thru the procedures listed in the attached to get the carbs dialed in .



 

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Are you absolutely sure you are timing the Boyer ignition magnets with the correct hole in the backing plate? Also, if you are using the pointer on your rotor to set the timing, be aware that sometimes these rotors get loose on their moorings and can fool you, double check it with the timing plug in the crankcase behind the cylinders. Many rotors have two timing marks 180 degrees apart, make sure you are using the correct one. Have a priest come over with a can of Holy paint stripper and perform and exorcism :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Carbs are good. Out of the box, new cables. I spent some time setting them as per those very instructions you listed.

I did pull apart the top end a bit to double check what I could without making a mess. It seems tip top, compression is strong to the point it's a bitch to kick.

Once I lock either the mag or the Boyer magnets in the cam, it seems to bit well and spin good. I did sharpie mark the clockwise hole in the Boyer to time the right hole.

With all that said all signs point to timing. I only have 2 slots in the timing gear and tdc and 38 bftdc seem to not only coincide with the marks on my stator but also height of the cylinder in the plug hole.

I thought it may be the joe hunt mag, but I'm getting the same exact results with the Boyer. I'm glad I didn't sell the mag yet

As for the timing gears being pulled and "off". That may be true but that's beyond my ability capacity in British engines at the moment.

The stator I didn't pull yet. I definitely will to tonight to eliminate that possibility of being a problem. I usually set timing by lifting the ass end throwing it in fourth and turning the back wheel. I use the timing tool to feel the gear notches. And usually double check with my stator marks and checking the plug hole with marked popsicle stick.

I know my way ok around American and metric bikes. This is my first british.
It's frustrating because it's close, really close... But something is out of whack and all signs point to timing. But on my end it all checks out.
 

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the 15 second run usually indicates the pilot circuits are plugged and it only runs as long as the gas you tickled into the carbs lasts.
Try this have a friend hold down on on the ticklers when the bike fires up, if it stays running then you are not getting fuel through the pilot jets.
Now....you are going to say wait !!! those are brand new Amal carbs !!.... but what happens on many brand new Amals is they use a drilling wax when the drill the passages and sometimes after you put fuel in them it dislodges some wax residue and it often times plugs the pilot jet,
You should take out the adjuster screw and put it way down into the carb until it goes through the jet and clears it. Here is a pic of the tool, you can also use a guitar string.
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also....along with what tony said....always disassemble, inspect, and clean new carbs...also write down what jets are in it....they usually come set up rich.... just because they are new doesn't mean they are ready to be run...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Went through carbs but not the pilot. Not even sure if it has the true jet or the pilot "bush" as it's referred to. I'll guitar string that little bitch tonight. Still think its something that spins though and not carbs. I do recall the stator being loose at one point.

Because after a rare short start it feels advanced or retarded on next kick as in too easy or kicking back hard. And then I don't even get a burp. My question is what would make the timing slip enough after a short start to throw it out enough not to run or start again. Because that is what it seems is happening. I can understand the magneto doing it but not the Boyer too. So my camshaft theory is shit. What should I look for? Broken timing gear?

I am going to bring it in this weekend to the local triumph master and just pay the man to do what he does. This is ruining my damn life. My wife hates me. The dog hates the garage
 

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Don't give up now. Your wife won't hate you as much when she knows she's got a man that can fix stuff himself.
 

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this may have been covered ? make sure yr battery has enought amps for the ignition and yr charging good too..i think the min is 5amp? on those not sure..
 

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If the cams are standard 3134 grind,you'll have approx 0.140" valve lift (intake and exhaust) at TDC.One cylinder will have the valves open this amount,the other cylinder will have both valves closed.
If the timing is out by one tooth,the valve lift at TDC will change about 0.055".
This is not rocket science,you can see this without measuring equipment.

I would suspect new carbs,and at least check the float levels and pilot jets.
 

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I have to agree with Tony on this. The run time does point to the bike running out of fuel after the ticklers do their thing. However, that big kick back points to that bike being way advanced. You should have about 8-10 degrees of play in that stator plate to back it off a bit and check and see. <Someone correct me if i am wrong. I have my timing dead on now and it hardly EVER kicks back anymore.
 
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