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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Hi Whizzbang; as mentioned Tomorrow I will try to find an oil gauge to check the pressure then continue with those test.

Hi Hay Mike; mate with what you just said you see that you are OVER retarded with your timing.
0.016 max gap just put it about 4,5º retarded! and then possibly you moved the body of the mag to fine tune. Then you mention that you are at 36ºBTDC...
Now I moved the crank to the 5/16 suggested by Hunt instructions. That is about 36º and coins.
I have the max gap at 0.012 that is kind of the ideal but seems too advanced for these fuels; tight motor; plenty of compression etc
 

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.016 points gap is correct. You can set the gap before you mount the mag. Gap has no effect on timing, only affects the dwell. The timing is set by rotating the mag so that the plug fires at the appropriate time, usually with a timing light. When it is right, you can just about start it by hand (when you're young).
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Hi HayMike; what I see is that I am at the point that if I rotate even more to the left the taper shaft, I would not obtain the mag case in the middle of the side slots so in that way, is like to let the taper there and rotates (to CW to retard) only the magneto in it slots...
 

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Any way you get the timing right is fine, mine is at the end of travel one way, but it works well where it is. Make sure the point gap is .015-.016 before final timing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Ok; I will keep moving and see. It s raining here.
I want to take it for a spin to see if the motor is too retarded with the rotations but still I think that is better to have all advance and that retard lever that they sell (I want to fabricate one but there are couple of details that I am not so sure)
to have the best performance. I use the bikes on the road not into town.
Anyway; I do not get why the big gap would be better than the good gap of 0.012 or that would be better regarding the kickbacks. I do not see how but
 

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fernando, if you can start it at all then by all means use a strobe timing light on the alternator rotor marks when it is running. static timing these days is just good enough to get it started.
 
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Reverb, I don't know your experience with point ignition, so I just want to mention that point gap is at the top of the lobe of the cam, so it does not directly affect timing. You set it, then rotate the mag to set timing. Points are antiques these days. Ignore me if this is not helpful. I just know how good these bikes can work with Hunt mags. Most of my Triumph riding has been with a mag, and it never let me down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Hi Kevin; no doubt but I am at 25km of one and that shop do not borrow me to bring it here.

Hi HayMike; the Hunt in my pre unit did the job pretty good with some 40000km on it but have the AAU.
I rotate it to the right so I have almost at the end of the slots (the right allen screw is almost touching the high part of the right slot) and still kickbacks in almost all the good kicks (the pistons at the right part)
Do you have your mag at the same position?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Hi; so after the third strobe lamp that lent me this one was in working order. The static timing that I did was spot on.
Of course plenty of retard is what I found to try to avoid kickbacks so nothing about advanced; is that as I always knew, at 38º kickbacks like hell
But again; what is the point to have a magneto to ride retarded? No any at all so I bet that all of you with a Triumph if really put an strobe light to the rotor mark, you will see that you are riding at 32º-34º not at 38º. Pretty bad for the performance and for the engine is not good only if you have dual plug head.
 
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