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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello;
so I have this new magneto in this rebuilt motor.
Kickbacks in every try; strong ones that I cannot handle. I am not big and not young anymore. No matter the boots; cannot handle in every kick; plenty of compression; all new inside and out of the package carburetors so clean and properly working.

Kickback + backfiring from carburetors and also I got a flaming in one of the exhaust lead me to think that may be I am 180º out?
The only part that I have a doubt regarding the timing is that. I mean; if you face the magneto without the cover (from timing side) I moved (with the hex piece) the rotor/cam of the magneto in CW to set the points to break due to the Triumph EX camshaft rotates CW
BUT and that is a big one, I do not know if I needed to do that setting in CCW rotation of that cam and then when starting to open remove the cig paper (that is about 0.0015; a 0.002 gauge do not fit)

Here there are 2 photos showing what I did in CW motion (the rotor/cam is moving that way and the points start to open etc)
1-when the points starting to separate (and I can remove the paper)
2- just closed
Please check the rotor/cam in relation to the point arm.

Thanks

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Hello;
so I have this new magneto in this rebuilt motor.
Kickbacks in every try; strong ones that I cannot handle. I am not big and not young anymore. No matter the boots; cannot handle in every kick; plenty of compression; all new inside and out of the package carburetors so clean and properly working.

Kickback + backfiring from carburetors and also I got a flaming in one of the exhaust lead me to think that may be I am 180º out?
The only part that I have a doubt regarding the timing is that. I mean; if you face the magneto without the cover (from timing side) I moved (with the hex piece) the rotor/cam of the magneto in CW to set the points to break due to the Triumph EX camshaft rotates CW
BUT and that is a big one, I do not know if I needed to do that setting in CCW rotation of that cam and then when starting to open remove the cig paper (that is about 0.0015; a 0.002 gauge do not fit)

Here there are 2 photos showing what I did in CW motion (the rotor/cam is moving that way and the points start to open etc)
1-when the points starting to separate (and I can remove the paper)
2- just closed
Please check the rotor/cam in relation to the point arm.

Thanks

View attachment 274281

View attachment 274282

Hey bud,

If it's kicking back like that it's your timing. The timing when too advanced or 180 degrees out will do that. There's a lot of threads on the forum with regard to how to time them, so rather than be blabber here search the forums for it. Make sure you visit it before you do yourself an injury!
 

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Do you have an auto-advance unit on the drive gear, or just a fixed gear? If you have an advance unit, you need to have the weights pushed out into fully advanced position when setting the timing, otherwise you will be too far advanced. I've used a piece of rubber hose wedged in there to hold them open while doing it in the past.
 

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Check timing. Check wires are going to proper cylinder. Lock your advance to fully advanced, set at 38' degrees, using flywheel notch, verify, and then should be ready to start standing alongside w sneakers on, whence timed right, they start easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Rhysmort; for sure I checked those threads and also participated! I am here since early 2009...there is no thread mentioning what I actually asking.

Hi WhiizzbangKC; is a unit 750 so after you remove the original AAU to fit a magneto you just finish with a fixed magneto.

Hi Brent64; is a Triumph so 360º crank and wasted spark mag; you can interchange the wires.

I used the 38º crank notch and rotor mark. How I can be advanced?
My doubts are other; like mentioned in the first comment and showing in the photos.
If I need to rotate it to CCW,
All other stuff is good.

Thanks
 

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Reverb. I'm not exactly glad you have a problem, but it's good to see you post one here. Been a long time.
 

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So, fixed mag and you're timing it to the 38 degree full advance mark. That means you're trying to start it at full advance, which can make one a bit finicky to get started. Try backing the advance off a bit at at time till it starts easier. I've known of several people who were much happier running a little less advance for easier starting. If it starts with the timing retarded, you'll have your answer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Ratso; Thank you. Happened that few years ago when the forum changed hands, they asked for a very very long password then I forget what was and the system was a pain but now was easy to enter again.
Also; I was dedicated to a 79 with dual plug head; bathtub chambers; external filter etc and put about 13000km in a year until the crank broke! I am almost there to have all the parts to rebuild it.

Hi WhizzbangKC; I checked putting the crank at 34º and the points just breaking but still the same may be a bit less aggressive the kicking. The motor sound not so "rounded".
If you check ALL the guys in this forum that have a fixed mag on a Triumph all mention that they no have kickbacks...
I have an email Today with an Aussie guy that have a Norton with a Hunt since decades ago and never ever kickback.
So the only thing that I can need to confirm if I set the point to open right or wrong. That is if the rotor moves CW and the points starting to open (like showed in the photos) or if I need to move it CCW to have the points starting to open.
Hunt instructions are not good, Says the evident. They do not support what they sell also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hello Hay Mike;
my doubt was regarding what the Hunt instructions mention:
"Hold breaker cam in opposite direction of rotation (advanced position) and rotate
engine until the points on #1 cylinder just start to open. " They start the instructions like you have the old set of points installed. I did not have that but thought that still the magneto cam (operated by the hex shaft from behind) would be towards that position and then set the points to start to open.
However; if I did it right (I set the points starting to open CW) I have a strong kickback in every try + backfiring through carburetors so if I have the magneto over advanced is that actually these magnetos are not set to 38º but more like the 5/16 that they suggest.
5/16 IS NOT the rotor mark at 38º
 

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If you think maybe you are misinterpreting the meaning of the instructions, why don't you just try doing the other way and see what happens? One other question. Are you using a piece of paper in the points and determining the "start to open" point by where the paper gets loose, as your previous post seems to imply? If so, the thickness of the paper will throw your actual point of opening way off. You need to be determining this electrically, either with a meter or a buzz box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Still did not do it because have been thinking on that is I do not find a logic (the only logic is that Lowbrow sent me a BSA magneto...)
I have a 0.0015 gauge. That is the measure. There are some papers that have that measure too. But that do not cause kickbacks
Old pre units have the retard lever (or like my 48 an AAU) that let 14BTDC to start it. Then I have other 79 that have dual plug head and a digital EI for the 4 plugs that let the timing set at 32º.
Of course no kickbacks.
 

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Do it with degree wheel and a bulb and battery
You don’t need to take head off
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi; the camshafts now are at factory marks.
I am dealing with the oil feed side. I do not want to kick the bike right now due to I am not so sure (after removing the pressure valve; switch etc and did things) if I have good pressure. The strange NPS timing cover switch hole is delay on me to find an oil pressure gauge to check. Hope Tomorrow. Then I will kick it again.
However, you seems form the band that believes that a fixed mag is not kickback at full advance. I am the prove that kickback for sure but the doubt was if I needed to set up the point to the other side (CCW)
All the timing and checking are correct.
Some say "to retard"...34º is way retarded and still kickback in every kick.
 

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Then set up the point to the other side (CCW) and try it. You seem fixated on that possibility, but for some reason don't actually want to try it. It is too easy to try it and eliminate or verify that as the problem.
 

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Reverb, time it with a timing light, then you know. With help, you can probably do it kicking if it won't start. .018 plug gap. .016 points, no resistor in plugs or caps. Mine is at 36 before TDC, and kicks through easily.
 
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