F.st.m. can you give us some more detail on the phase converter?
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Home made workshop tools
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Sure Raz,
First single phase (2 hot legs) enters the knife switch box at the bottom of the box. Leg #2 is jumped(split) to power up what will become the third leg. Time-delay fuses are installed so that the breaker doesn't trip during initial start-up.
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Then the third leg power is sent down to a start capacitor. It returns up and into the momentary (light switch) switch. It then goes down and "bump starts" the idler motor which is bolted to the side of my mill.
With zero load on the idler motor, it creates a steady third leg (L3) which can now be used by the mill & lathe.
![]()
Though still a bit messy, the circuits can be identified on the wall board in this last photo. When running only one machine, the circuits (L1, L2, & l3) are very well ballanced and the "created 3rd leg" is at 92% - 96% amperage which is just about perfect. When running both(mill & lathe) machines simultaneously, amperage on L3 drops to 88% so I just plug in to the dayton run cap (blue star in photo) and this brings it back up to 95%.
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Total expenses were $80 this includes the idler motor(ebay), fuses, romex, capacitors, and light switch. The knife switch came with the mill when I got it, so that was a freebie.
First single phase (2 hot legs) enters the knife switch box at the bottom of the box. Leg #2 is jumped(split) to power up what will become the third leg. Time-delay fuses are installed so that the breaker doesn't trip during initial start-up.
Then the third leg power is sent down to a start capacitor. It returns up and into the momentary (light switch) switch. It then goes down and "bump starts" the idler motor which is bolted to the side of my mill.
With zero load on the idler motor, it creates a steady third leg (L3) which can now be used by the mill & lathe.
Though still a bit messy, the circuits can be identified on the wall board in this last photo. When running only one machine, the circuits (L1, L2, & l3) are very well ballanced and the "created 3rd leg" is at 92% - 96% amperage which is just about perfect. When running both(mill & lathe) machines simultaneously, amperage on L3 drops to 88% so I just plug in to the dayton run cap (blue star in photo) and this brings it back up to 95%.
Total expenses were $80 this includes the idler motor(ebay), fuses, romex, capacitors, and light switch. The knife switch came with the mill when I got it, so that was a freebie.
3
I have heard of this done before but nobody explained it as well as you have.Nice job ,esp when multible applications are needed.I have printed this and put in my notes for future reference.....ThanksSure Raz,
First single phase (2 hot legs) enters the knife switch box at the bottom of the box. Leg #2 is jumped(split) to power up what will become the third leg. Time-delay fuses are installed so that the breaker doesn't trip during initial start-up.
![]()
Then the third leg power is sent down to a start capacitor. It returns up and into the momentary (light switch) switch. It then goes down and "bump starts" the idler motor which is bolted to the side of my mill.
With zero load on the idler motor, it creates a steady third leg (L3) which can now be used by the mill & lathe.
![]()
Though still a bit messy, the circuits can be identified on the wall board in this last photo. When running only one machine, the circuits (L1, L2, & l3) are very well ballanced and the "created 3rd leg" is at 92% - 96% amperage which is just about perfect. When running both(mill & lathe) machines simultaneously, amperage on L3 drops to 88% so I just plug in to the dayton run cap (blue star in photo) and this brings it back up to 95%.
![]()
Total expenses were $80 this includes the idler motor(ebay), fuses, romex, capacitors, and light switch. The knife switch came with the mill when I got it, so that was a freebie.
Here is my home made mill, back in trade school each of us made parts and then we all put them together and we each had a mill.
Chad
www.pearsoncustoms.com
Chad
www.pearsoncustoms.com
Attachments
wheeling machines, got plans off internet, made two one paid for
mine.
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mine.
a stand for holding stuff, the arms adjust vert. and horizontaly
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neck fixture for an as yet unfinished frame jig
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probably too dark to see but a combo wheel chock / tie down
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over center bike lift
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some mods to a HF tubing notcher
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kids in shop class using a T-dolly
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this table has been one of the most useful things ever, has casters and makes moving things around the shop super easy, a '26 roadster is sitting on it now and I just push it around the shop
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homemade Les Paul
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neck fixture for an as yet unfinished frame jig
probably too dark to see but a combo wheel chock / tie down
over center bike lift
some mods to a HF tubing notcher
kids in shop class using a T-dolly
this table has been one of the most useful things ever, has casters and makes moving things around the shop super easy, a '26 roadster is sitting on it now and I just push it around the shop
homemade Les Paul
8
Just found this online... Guy says its for forming tunnels for bike gas tanks.
Attachments
I use this tool to pressure test my intake manifold. Super easy to find even the smallest leaks.
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-Craig
- Remove the carb
- Bolt this onto the end of the intake using the rubber inner tube "gasket" to seal it up.
- Put my air compressor hose on the nipple and adjust the regulator to 10psi.
- Spray all around the intake o-rings with water with a little bit of dish soap.
-Craig
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great scott 1.21 jigawatts
F.st.m. can you give us some more detail on the phase converter?
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My "poorman's" wheel clamp. I know, I need to turn the heat up on my welder. Hahaha...
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The tried and true 'block of wood' but with channels drilled for a lil' added stability. Clamp a 2x4 to a 6x4 use a 1-3/8" bit at the seam and you get a perfect channel for the frame. 'b'
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The tried and true 'block of wood' but with channels drilled for a lil' added stability. Clamp a 2x4 to a 6x4 use a 1-3/8" bit at the seam and you get a perfect channel for the frame. 'b'
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