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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My headlight keeps burning out, lasts about a couple thousand miles and burns out again. 1976 FLH stock headlight bucket. the charging system is ok charging 14.2 volts or so, it seems like it is just the vibration that burns it out. The bulbs I'm using is a standard auto light, sealed beam halogen bulb. Is there a type of bulb that will be better? LED, standard filliment type bulb?
 

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Put dialectic grease on bulb
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
dialectic on the plug on the back wire connection? your thoughts are that it is a poor connection? The light does not flicker,,,, that I know, but of course I can't watch it going down the road but the bike has all new wires, new light plug and all.
 

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Have you cleaned the ignition switch dumbell and contacts? They also can be a source of a poor intermittent connection. Any poor or intermittent connection will cause the filament to heat up. Another source of trouble could be a regulator allowing surges. Add low lead acid battery electrolite to the list,as with plates exposed, voltage can spike as battery isn't shunting the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well, the switch is about 2 years old and while I have not looked at the switch contacts I would think there is no intermittent connection there as the engine does not misfire. Battery is new this year and I had this problem last year also. I was looking at the LED headlights but they don't have the look the bike needs.
 

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So you are talking history and figure no trouble shooting is needed. So go back to throwing head lights at it.
 

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I have had awesome luck switching to Sealight Led brand. They make numerous types as I'm not sure which bulb you have. Here is two pics of mine after conversion. They have low and high beam option.
272822
272823
 

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My headlight keeps burning out, lasts about a couple thousand miles and burns out again. 1976 FLH stock headlight bucket. the charging system is ok charging 14.2 volts or so, it seems like it is just the vibration that burns it out. The bulbs I'm using is a standard auto light, sealed beam halogen bulb. Is there a type of bulb that will be better? LED, standard filliment type bulb?
Auto lights won’t stand up to the vibration. Get a motorcycle specific lamp and it will last. Have gone through this several times.
 

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Listen to me, I have been riding the SAME shovelhead since 1975, after the original one blew, I replaced it. No big thing went to an auto parts store and bought one for an old chevrolet truck with a single headlight, after about a month it went to, I went and got another, it went a couple of months then it blew too.
I mentioned it at the clubhouse and an old biker told me to wrap about three or four wraps of cloth adhesive tape like the kind that holds bandages on around the outer rim of the light. I did that and have been running the same headlight for about 5 years, when it blew I got another and found that roll of cloth adhesive tape and wrapped the next one too. Its still on there, been on there over 5 years and it got ridden a lot.

Listen to the people that have been poor and had to fix things the best way they can. It works. Go do what I said.

Another quick fix is when you have a sucking intake ring on your manifold, cut some good duct tape the same width of the band that holds the manifolld to the heads and put new rubbers in it then wrap it about three times over the area where the manifold joins the heads right under the clamps the same o rings have been on it for 5 years with not one leak.
To all the nay sayers that will chastise my fixes< I have been using these tactics for over 20 years and it works or I would not say so. Do what I just said and I will accept your thanks in the future.
 

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[four wraps of cloth adhesive tape like the kind that holds bandages on around the outer rim of the light.
Please give some more details on this. Thanks I like it




[/QUOTE]
 

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I've got to wonder, because I have rarely had head lights go out. '49 pan same since 1987. '85 lowrider since 2009 not burned out just went to a H4. '70 FLH I had did lose one head light but the hole in it kind of explained why it went. Now in the way back with rectangle double lights on my '75 hotrod XLH chopper I was constantly blowing head and tail light bulbs, untill I went to a solid state regulator than no more trouble.
 

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Duct tape to solve an intake leak is...not a method I would attempt. But like Joe, I never had headlights eat shit. Car, bike... they don't give a fuck, and if they have gone out, there's usually a reason.

Be that as it may, 46International, have you checked your connector between your reg and your stator? They're notorious for loosening and repeatedly arc welding on cone motors. I usually make a little loop out of welding rod and affix it to the case bolt...

I've also blown lights and boiled batteries when running a high-amp charging system but using little power. If you're on a 22-amp system or whatever, it should be fine, but the Evo 32 regs that many people run with a cone motor don't care for being worked to high heavens.
 

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I know that cheap bulbs & sealed beam units don't last,
I hate spending $25 on a factory or known make like Hella, Bing, Bosch & the others, But they ARE a far better quality units made with better quality components & worth buying for long term use.
 

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I have had awesome luck switching to Sealight Led brand. They make numerous types as I'm not sure which bulb you have. Here is two pics of mine after conversion. They have low and high beam option. View attachment 272822 View attachment 272823
That seems very bright. My buddy is looking for led light conversion when his bike return from body paint and installation of the new shocks from 4 Wheelonline this week. We're gonna check that out.
 
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