Getting ready for my first Triumph build, a few questions

...hello,
you always need the spacers, no matter if they are sealed.
In case you get rid of the dust covers, you ll need a larger spacer to compensate the distance.

-I think for a rigid is better to buy the best ones.

regarding lacing, you can buy a kit from Buchanan s and then lace. The info needed is here.

-you do not really need an external oil filter if you change the oil at fine intervals and clean the stuff right.
Putting more lines, in my opinion is for problems (if you ride in daily basis)

-also, I suggest to put the battery a bit higher.

It's a nice runner but it's not as nice as the picture looks. It's spray bombed and it was mostly thrown together. It would look sweet all cleaned up but it would need a total make over. So I figure I'll change it up. Ill be doing a 21" front and 16" rear.

As far as the conical hub goes. I know it's 5/8. I got a new hardtail made by TFMW with 5/8 axle plates so im good to go there. I keep searching for bearings but all I find is made in china crap. Anyone know of some nice made in the states bearings??

For re assembling the hub, does anybody have a diagram of it. I did a search and found a thread from four years ago, someone posted a link to what sounds like what I need, but the link was expired.

Also anymore advice on lacing a wheel yourself? I've never tried, maybe Im wrong but I feel like the conical hubs would be the wrong place to start?

Thanks again

Ratrodder23 said:

Also anymore advice on lacing a wheel yourself? I've never tried, maybe Im wrong but I feel like the conical hubs would be the wrong place to start?

Thanks again

Click to expand...

I just laced my conical hubs last week... They are really no different than other hubs, except fo the fact that there are 4 distinct spoke styles that make up one wheel, but if you think about it logically it's pretty easy:

You figure you have 2 sides to your hub, left and right. The left (brake side) is a LOT larger in diameter than the right, so off the bat you can split your spokes into 2 batches easily because the brake side spokes are distinctly shorter than the speedo-side.

From there it becomes a matter of looking at the bends. On each side of the hub, you have inner and outter spokes. The spokes for the OUTTER brake-side, have a much more dramatic bend than the INNER, because they have to wrap around the edge of the hub flange, and come back to center. The INNER side have a much more subtle bend because they can pretty much go through the flange, and fall naturally toward the center of the rim.

On the speedo-side, the spokes all go through the hub from the same direction but, if you look at hub, you'll notice that the spoke holes are staggered... The OUTTER holes hold the outter spokes, and the INNER holes hold the inner spokes. The INNER holes have a longer bore to them, because there is more meat on the hub that has to be drilled through... the OUTTER holes are shorter. Look at the spoke heads, and you'll see that one is slightly longer than the other from head to bend... Guess which ones go where.

The rim itself is directional, but it also is pretty easy to figure out with a little logic... The holes that should align with the brake side are drilled at a more acute angle than the speedo side... this is because the short spokes are on a much more acute angle to the rim, due to the large flange on the hub.

Best advice is to take a shit-ton of pictures of a stock wheel, from both sides and keep them handy. Use reference points in the pictures, like the valve stem hole on the rim and a sprocket bolt hole on the hub to match what's in front of you. Buy a spoke wrench! Don't try to use a small adjustable or small open end. Don't force or bend anything, if the pattern is right, everything should pretty much fall into place on it's own. Pick a nice, quiet time when you have a few hours to spend... get a 6 pack, maybe a bag of weed... put on some good music... take your time, and enjoy one of the most rewarding, zen-like experiences of working on your own bike!

Here's a link that might help you out a bit:
http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65054

Oh, and be prepared to pull everything apart a couple of times...

Hope that helps.
-BK

Jeff L said:

Bike looks good the way it sits, but can understand wanting to make it yours.I like the front end.I was building a similar one for my bike, but went in a different direction.Gonna have to rethink things.Have you been riding it? If so, how is the ride with just one spring?Seems to me it would be a little weak.But thats why Im asking.

Click to expand...

I live in Amish Country PA, the roads sucks for the most part. This is the first classic bike I've ridden so I cant compare it to anything, but I think it rides okay. Its not " comfortable" but its more then bare able. I don't know what the leaf spring was from, but its pretty damn stiff actually and does seem to work pretty well.

This is a really bummer on that wheel. I was really excited when I found it. I'm having a hell of a hard time finding a dimpled 40 spoke 21" wheel, ill run either a wm1 or wm2. Lowbrow has a un-drilled Akront 21" wm1 but its flanged and I really don't like the look.

I'm about ready to say screw it and forget the front conical hub and just run a spool hub, I don't know how I feel about no front brakes though. Also will my 16" Harley drop center wheel lace up to the rear conical. I did a search on that and saw a lot of people say you shouldn't do it, but ive also seen a lot of conical hubs laced to that wheel.

Who would think you could have this much trouble getting some wheels.

Thanks for the help