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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
93 inch pan with G5 Morris Magneto
9.5 : 1 S&S E kick only Dual plugged STD heads with Morris MSF
Cables that are connected up as follows........
1 set going to front & Rear left side
2nd set going to Front & Rear right side

She just doesn't want to fire. 'tried every conceivable start ritual known to
mankind. Plugs are getting spark when removed & grounded.
fuel is fresh 91 octane with booster added.

Brand new Autolite 3924 Non resistor plugs in the combustion room,
Gapped @ .020 (also tried .025).
played with the idle/air screw, Idle speed screw, & Accel. pump with no
help.

After gimping my knee & one huge scrap on my shin bone, I am looking for
some ideas!

This G5 is a used one that I just purchased from a JJ member So I am not
familliar with the impulse coupler & therefore am also not clear on the setting of the points. 'Pretty sure the gear teeth are meshed correctly.

The impulse trips when the skinny lobe hits the cam follower just as the F mark on the S&S wheels passes the inspection hole (35D advanced) (compression stroke) NOW..... AM I supposed to back up the flywheel to the F mark, after the Impulse jumps ahead? & then set the points to "just beginning to open)?

One other thing that I am not clear on is the grounding screw for the kill switch. I removed the kill switch wire from the mag & I am getting continuity to Ground with the kill circuit removed..... Is This Correct?
Internally, This grounding wire goes to the internal mag coil, Maybe there is supposed to be a small amount of ground continuity because
the Coil is grounded on one side? Enlighten Me!
 

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the ground wire routes thru insulators, if that wire is shorting to the mag case you will NOT have a spark, pull the plugs, inslall them into the plug wires, let them hang as you kick it over looking for spark, the guys at morris magneto will help as well, www.morrismagneto.com as far as timmming the skinny lobe is for the front cylinder, with the timming mark in the window ( intake just closed, comming up on comp stroke) the points should just be opening, I use the plastic of a cigarette pack to feel the drag on the points, when they are opening I lock the mag down, this is your advance placement, then retard to the mag by hand to start, (mag body rear swings closer to the motor when retarted) also those pushrods need to be 100% free to spin when the valve is fully seated, this will help starting and running once spark issue is resolved..
aslo, S&S had a good tech support, call to see just what markings on your wheels are correct...
 

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Try getting it started with the correct timming and just ONE set of plugs hooked up with regular wires. That way you can eliminate a bunch of new stuff from the mix.

Also talk to Morris about how you have the MSF's hooked up. When I ran a dual head mag, I was told to alternate the wires. Meaning don't fire one jug off of one mag (or in your case one jusg off of one side of the mag)

Sixball
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, I was wanting to try it with just 1 set of basic cables, but I only have a set of supression core which will not work, I have the red coded bands (on the Cables) hooked up just like Morris says to http://www.morrismagneto.com/instructions/msfinst.html
that is.... colored bands of both cables Not on the same cylinder.

The clear mag cap allows me to see the spark across the points, & The MSF cables appear to be working correcty alternating the spark to the live cylinder only. (not sure how these cables do that!) something to do with resistance I guess.

What is really bugging me is that grounding screw on the mag. with kill wire Disconnected from the mag..... There is continuity to GROUND on the screw. Not
sure if this is normal, or maybe the coil is working but just not putting out a hot enough spark maybe?

I am going to double check my push rod adjustment & then try retarding and or advancing the mag some more...(which I have already spent an entire day doing already).
 

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Couple of thoughts:

  • with dual plugs, I'd back off your timing about 5 degrees. You said "She just doesn't want to fire.", but since you said your knee hurts and your shins scraped, I'll assume that it has fired but not run. Which also leads me to believe your timing is advanced.
  • not sure what STD heads take, and I'm not sure what 3924 plugs are for, but for shovel and pan applications I always Autolite 4275 or 4265 for long reach applications.
  • if you are unsure about the carb or anything else, put a stock timer in it to get it tuned right first.
  • if you aren't already, get familiar with the morris literature for the MSF wires and the mag. "if MSF #1 runs the stock plugs with the red-tagged wire to the front cylinder, MSF #2 red-tagged wire goes to the rear added plug, and the untagged to the front added plug." but first you have to get the spark on the correct cylinder to begin with.
  • and like Sixball said, try a set of regular magneto wires to one set of plugs. Those MSFs have been known to fail.
  • as far as timing with the impulse coupling, if it were me:

  1. put the flywheels where you want them and leave them (if it were me, I'd estimate 28 degrees).
  2. take the mag off the bike. spin it by hand, until the coupling fires on the front cylinder (skinny lobe), then turn it back by hand just enough so that the lobe is where you want it. Now install it and time it like you normally would. If it spins forward accidentally during this time, and gets wound up on the impulse coupling again, I'd pull it out and start over. *and of course the G5 spins backwards, compared to the other models, but you probably already know that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
3924 Autolite is same heat range & length, as far as I know the only diff. is that the 3924
has a smaller 5/8" hex. The Autolite 4265 has a larger 13/16" hex which is a problem with the dual plugged heads..........A 13/16" deep socket will not squeeze between the cylinder fins on the pushrod side of the motor. Both are copper core, Non resistor.

Well...... I changed out my pushrods, I had a new set of comp cams chrmoly P rods on the shelf, so While I was checking the pushrod adjustment, which by the way was good.... I just changed them out:D Lifters are powerglyde hydros.

I then retarded the motor & it seemed to get better with each small adjustment towards TDC, I finally got Her to light up at about 28 -30 degrees BTDC ...... the 35 degree "F" mark is beyond the inspection hole, out of sight by 2 or 3 degrees, Previously I did not want to stray away from the window too far, so I kept it within sight, just towards the front of the inspection window.

How did She sound? Like an Ape preparing to get raped.
jetting seems pretty close, maybe a tad rich in the midrange. I shut Her down after about 3 minutes due to the Oil coming out of the Left side crankcase Seal! Fuck!... I pulled out the check valve (spring& ball) on the S&S pump & douched it out. I am hoping It was just a small piece of crud under the ball, But now I wonder why the oil is not coming out of the crank vent, must be a clog.

I did learn that the G5 mag likes a slow kick, that was part of my problem,
I was kicking it too fast, It likes a smooth fluid casual kick.
If the timing is advanced too much, that slow kick likes to kick back at you much more than if you do a fast kick, so I think these G5 mags are best to have a little more retard than the mags without the impulse coupler, just my 2 cents on that.

Thanks guys, especially scott for getting Me to retard it beyond the "normal range"
at least now I got it within the sweet spot & can do minute adjustments to get Her spot on. I need to see how she runs at max RPM & go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
3924 Autolite is same heat range & length, as far as I know the only diff. is that the 3924
has a smaller 5/8" hex. The Autolite 4265 has a larger 13/16" hex which is a problem with the dual plugged heads..........A 13/16" deep socket will not squeeze between the cylinder fins on the pushrod side of the motor. Both are copper core, Non resistor.

Well...... I changed out my pushrods, I had a new set of comp cams chrmoly P rods on the shelf, so While I was checking the pushrod adjustment, which by the way was good.... I just changed them out:D Lifters are powerglyde hydros.

I then retarded the motor & it seemed to get better with each small adjustment towards TDC, I finally got Her to light up at about 28 -30 degrees BTDC ...... the 35 degree "F" mark is beyond the inspection hole, out of sight by 2 or 3 degrees, Previously I did not want to stray away from the window too far, so I kept it within sight, just towards the front of the inspection window.

How did She sound? Like an Ape preparing to get raped.
jetting seems pretty close, maybe a tad rich in the midrange. I shut Her down after about 3 minutes due to the Oil coming out of the Left side crankcase Seal! Fuck!... I pulled out the check valve (spring& ball) on the S&S pump & douched it out. I am hoping It was just a small piece of crud under the ball, But now I wonder why the oil is not coming out oil is not coming out of the crank vent, must be a clog.

I did learn that the G5 mag likes a slow kick, that was part of my problem,
I was kicking it too fast, It likes a smooth fluid casual kick.
If the timing is advanced too much, that slow kick likes to kick back at you much more than if you do a fast kick, so I think these G5 mags are best to have a little more retard than the mags without the impulse coupler, just my 2 cents on that.
 
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