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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Man I've been so called "building" my shvl for almost a year now. I admit that some of the down time was due to me just jerking off instead of working. Now it's like WTF? every time I'm ready to button it up one more thing stops me. Last time it was the leak in the tranny main shaft area. After waiting for over a month I finaly got the parts to fix that. Now I've been fucking with trying to adjust the clutch for over two weeks! I know how to adjust a clutch, I've had several guys that know how to adjust a clutch do it. I even took it all apart replaced the plates and readjusted the clutch. It still tries to drag me across the intersection. I'm getting a lot of advice, buy this, try that, yaddie yaddie ya.
When I get some bucks together I'll just take one mans advice and buy a new set up. By the way, I'm having a yard sale this weekend, bring money I need a new clutch.

Anyway I just wanted to share my personal hell. I'll get at it again tonight, someone hand me a beer and a doobie.
 

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today after work i will abandon all hope of getting the stock clutch to work right, and installing a new bdl belt setup w/clutch.

i hope to solve the following problems....

1) stripping the teeth off the stock starter rings

2) clutch that won't properly disengage

3) clutch that won't hold under full throttle in top gears

4) dripping primary
 

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shit when it comes to stock clutch systems you can't beat Energy Ones setup...I've always run them with aluminum pressure plate and heavy duty springs...never a problem..and if you wanna spend some bux go with Rivera....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Never heard of energy.
I have a 4 speed that doesnt leak now. Simple fix with the new spacer. All it took was someone machining a groove on the inside and adding a rubber o-ring, slides over the shaft, no mas leak.
 

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Huh? Nothing is easier than a stock Shovel clutch. Do you have the correct length pushrod for it? There's various combos of pushrod lengths and throwout bearings for different years, belt drives etc. Usually the biggest mistake is putting too much spring pressure on the plates. You should only have about 1 maybe 2 threads tops showing after you adjust the nuts on the pressure plates. I dunno, maybe you got one of those aftermarket clutches made from linoleum flooring. I'm not kidding...
 

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No, I've just learned from doing everything the wrong way at least once. Shovel clutches, are pretty easy to set up. If it's dragging him across the intersection, I'm assuming it's not releasing all the way, which means he's got a bad adjustment, wrong length pushrod, wrong throwout bearing, oily up glazed plates, worn spots on the 10 studs coming out of his hub which won't make them release easily, a frigging rubberband cable (including the stock replacement HD one) etc. He should see the center nut and pushrod adjustment go in and out (underneith the derby cover) when he pulls the clutch in, if this is happening, then at least the throwout bearing and forked thing are engaging inside the kick cover. Does he have the correct number of plates? He dosent' have too much spring pressure does he (you don't just tighten the shit out of them) You should tighten them so the nuts are even with the end of the studs, gve it a kick, if the clutch slips when you give it a kick, then you need to go a little tighter, But there shouldn't be more than a couple at most of the threads exposed. I bet in his case it's something really simple...when you put the clutch pack on, did everything slide easily into the outer clutch hub (the splines) and the innner hub over the 10 studs? Check for something binding. And slide the plates in one at a time. There's at least 4 different length pushrods for the 4 speed tranny. Make sure you got the right one. It may look like it's releasing all the way but might not be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Creepinogie, the tranny and clutch are the same ones I've had on this bike since I've owned it. (about 10 yrs) The only thing that's diff is the BDL belt drive. New clutch plates just to make sure the old ones wern't warped (they wernt). Yup cleaned any and all oils and glazing. Fingers are straighht, no indents from rattling plates. Complete release when the motor is NOT running. Spins easy by hand with the lever pulled in. Starting mesurement is 1 and 1/32nd of an inch and adjust pushrod from there.. I mean I have dfone every thing I can think of other then try to adjust wiith it my 5 lb single jack. I've tried the aluminum preasure plate, went back to my stock one ect. Have had it off and back on many times this past week. Nothing binds durring assembly or removal of the plates. I've tried it sobber and stoned, drunk and awake. That 5 lb hammer is looking better every day.
 

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the biggest problem is lyke Lyle said is setup..get the clutches in place take it down a couple threads then fuck with your tension on the adjusting nut take it all the way in until the clutch arm is all the way back making sure there is a little play so it isn't riding on your throwout bearing...if you are using the little throwout bearing throw that bastard away and get the heavy duty one the big bastard...adjust your cable then until you don't have but a 1/16 play on the clutch handle and if that don't do it then all likely hood you have the wrong pushrod...Energy One is out in California their clutches are awesome..I run them on my 92" pan they don't slip a lick...google search them...
 

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Fredo said:
Never heard of energy.
I have a 4 speed that doesnt leak now. Simple fix with the new spacer. All it took was someone machining a groove on the inside and adding a rubber o-ring, slides over the shaft, no mas leak.
I may have to take a crack at this...you have more info or pics>?

is the spacer you mention also known as the seal ring? (second pic from the bottom)

http://www.bikernet.com/garage/PageViewer.asp?PageID=177

thanks.
 

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Fredo said:
Man I've been so called "building" my shvl for almost a year now. I admit that some of the down time was due to me just jerking off instead of working. Now it's like WTF? every time I'm ready to button it up one more thing stops me. Last time it was the leak in the tranny main shaft area. After waiting for over a month I finaly got the parts to fix that. Now I've been fucking with trying to adjust the clutch for over two weeks! I know how to adjust a clutch, I've had several guys that know how to adjust a clutch do it. I even took it all apart replaced the plates and readjusted the clutch. It still tries to drag me across the intersection. I'm getting a lot of advice, buy this, try that, yaddie yaddie ya.
When I get some bucks together I'll just take one mans advice and buy a new set up. By the way, I'm having a yard sale this weekend, bring money I need a new clutch.

Anyway I just wanted to share my personal hell. I'll get at it again tonight, someone hand me a beer and a doobie.
A couple things to try:

First, be sure your primary belt is adjusted properly. A belt that's too tight can cause the clutch to grab.

Second, get a Big Fixx kit. I had the same problem you describe when I installed a 3 in. Primo belt drive. The Big Fixx replaces the stock, staggered clutch shell/hub bearing and cage with long, loose rollers. Much better support. The kit also includes a nylon retainer and clips. That keeps the shell from walking back and forth on the hub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes that the one, oil leaks between the seal ring and the main shaft. My buddy's shop has a guy buy new ones and do the machine work to it. It comes along with the correct o-ring already in place. Runs about 50 bucks, kinda steep untill you figure in labor costs at the machine shop.
 

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Sounds like my Triumph, just needed a $5.00 part to finish it and some of the suppliers were out, not I got it and now I found that I need some rear brakes. Who know's what the hell I'm going to have an issue with once I wire it up.

It's a good thing I like working on it, if not I would have sold it by now.
 
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