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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is what I'm doing currently. Started this thread cos I know not everyone is interested in my bike thread, but this may be useful to anyone with an 8" or 200mm full width drum brake.

My wheel is from a Norton, but this will work on Triumph, and BMW wheels with the same size drum for sure (not to mention Dnepr, Ural, CJ etc, shhhhh!). I have no idea if American bikes were ever fitted with a suitable wheel/drum brake.



I first read a reference to the idea on a Russian bike forum, then started researching like a mad man but uncovered very little. The basic idea is that many Brit cars in the 1960's used 8" twin leading shoe hydraulic drum brakes and the parts could be used to make a very effective front juice brake while retaining the original drum brake looks.

I settled on Ford Escort brakes and worked out what parts I needed. As it happens the same brake was fitted to the BL Morris Marina, so finding the parts at reasonable cost was fairly easy. The only problem I had was not having any reference how to assemble, apart from some general knowledge of how these things work and a couple of scanned pages from a shitty after market Ford Escort workshop manual. A mate picked up the parts from the UK over Christmas and brought them back to Shanghai for me.



So very excited! Unwrapped everything and then confusion. Not sure if I had a set of matching parts! No way the springs were gonna reach from shoe to shoe for a start and in any case there weren't enough holes. Re checked part numbers, emailed suppliers, looked more on the interweb, seems I had the right bits. Then I read in the manual the spring is located at one end to the back plate... fucked if I could see where!

More dicking about on the interweb and found that the backing plates I have are later than the shoes and retaining springs, with no hole for the spring location. On later versions the springs do go shoe to shoe as I'd expected. As far as I can see though this is the only difference in the early and late backing plate (apart from an inconsequential difference in the adjuster), and so I could easily drill the missing holes.





Now that it makes sense, assembly is easy!



Next job, gotta make an adapter to hold it all in place.
 

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VERY clever!
 

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I can understand why you would want better braking performance, especially if you've come from riding modern bikes.

I'll watch this with keen interest, and will be taking a look to see if it would work in a conical hub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Very nice... don't know why you would do it... but nice job
Pretty much as wimper said - first reason is I like to stop when I fully apply the brake, not just slow down a bit as my knuckles turn white. I don't have the original Norton brakes just the wheel. I don't like the looks of disk brakes on a vintage bike.

Second reason is for the hell of it. I read it was possible and wanted to see if I could do it. I enjoy the engineering and scratch building.

I'll post a few pics of the original single leading shoe brake originally fitted to my bike for comparison.

Cheers,
Pete
 

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Seems to me this guy from Brooklyn did it with a sport bike MC (WHite Knights in the House of Kolor I think)
Pics are from Brooklyn Invitationnal 3.
If I find a pic from the drum side I'll post it, here's what I have now

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
^^ that looks good, be nice to see the brake side. It'll take a lil effort if I don't want it looking like a tractor when finished.

Very slick! What are your plans for a master cylinder? Gonna take a lot of volume.

Bob
I have a new Land Rover clutch master with 3/4" piston I'm gonna try first - mounted remotely and cable operated. It's a lil big but it was cheap at around $20 USD delivered, so worth a try!

Cheers,
Pete
 

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Just the thread I need....been think'n bout this for some time and was wondering if anyones done it,would love to run this on my shovel and pan with drums....I REALLY like stop'n! Keep up the good work,REAL nice...
not trying to hi-jack but any more pics or info on that set-up Elekvins,cool master....
GBM
 

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I've been tracking info and pic on that bike since the first day I saw it but hard to find.
I actually never found a good pic from the brake side, but it seems to be made from HD part mostly (rear juice drum melted with front housing I guess)
 

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I've been tracking info and pic on that bike since the first day I saw it but hard to find.
I actually never found a good pic from the brake side, but it seems to be made from HD part mostly (rear juice drum melted with front housing I guess)
It's one of Copelands bikes. It's a late juice backing plate upside down. He runs a brake line through the rear leg of the springer too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks chaps.

Had to modify the shoes to work with the later style adjuster.



This is the original brake next to the new brake:



How it looks currently:



Won't look like this when I'm finished!
 

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Very cool...can you post what year Escort those parts are off? Alldata going back to the 80's only shows a single wheel cylinder rear drum brake...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
^
It's a front drum 68-74 various models of Escort and Leyland Morris Marina. I have later back plates, so I had to modify the back plate and shoe slightly. Only difference in wheel cylinders between the models and years was the piston size apparently.
 

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^
It's a front drum 68-74 various models of Escort and Leyland Morris Marina. I have later back plates, so I had to modify the back plate and shoe slightly. Only difference in wheel cylinders between the models and years was the piston size apparently.
Many thanks. I might wanna try something like that on my '66, but would like to keep it as stock looking externally as possible.
 
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