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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My buddy plans on building a bike, but he wants to go with a rolling chassis to start. I like the Flyrite, and he does as well, but he wanted me to see which bike you guys might suggest as a good roller for him to start out on. He's new to bike building, so this would be his first....

Here are two links with the rollers he's looking at, any guidance, info will be appreciated.

Thanks

Flyrite Roller

http://www.flyritechoppers.com/Pg/1MerchFRCChassis.htm

Sucker Punch Roller
http://www.sinwear.us/SPSRollers.html
 

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BOTH are kick ass... i would recomend whichever one he likes the most, but i know flyrite has GREAT customer service...


that being said, and with my own experience, this is my advice...

buy a sporty or an older bike, and work on that, get it ridin and runnin good, during that time buy a new frame (pauchgo good and cheap), get the front end you want to run (unless stock is fine with you)... then when you have a weekend or a few days with your buddy, tear your bike down and toss it in your new frame and front end...

this is what im doin, you learn more, and its CHEAPER...

i got a runnin, riding ironhead $2500... its got a front end i wont use, and a frame i wont be using (there goes $500-800 in ebay parts right away)... for that $2500 i got a GREAT running bike, wheels, tires, all the lil stuff...

my new stuff is gona be a pauchgo stock rake, no stretch frame, the pauchgo oil tank, bearing cups, a stock length black springer, rear ribbed fender, solo seat with hairpins (dont like springs), and all taht is gonna cost me around $1400... shipped to me (i alread have fender and seat sittin around, and shoping through Jireh)

so i should be under $4000 total investment, not to mention anything i can sell off from the stock parts... frame with title alone should be $400 or so..


at this point, for jsut a roller i wuold have spent nearly what i have into my whole bike, my way, my parts... lots of people bought flyrites and all and switch tires, maybe wheels, front end, so basically youre payin a lot for something you might not use all of;... then you have to get a motor (BIIIIG money new, still big money used)...


thats my 2 cents, LOL... sorry if i talked FOREVER
 

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ps--- by the tie you add in the brakes you need to buy for either, you are at the price of my whole bike...


i hope mine will be done in a month or so, its rideable now, just need to collect parts and do the switch over when i get time... but LOTS of guys on here have ironheads on pauchgos, and they look AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Richie said:
I'd ask Scorcher....go with whatever he says.
:D
hahahhaha... i thought about posting that...

personally i think flyrite kicks suckerpunchs ass... ive called ema few times, AWESOME people and i didnt even order anything [email protected]!!!! im goin to them for a couple small things like grips maybe...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
He's planning on going with the roller and slowly aquiring the new parts. As for the flyrite, I love them, they're sweet looking bikes that come more complete for the money, and your comments about the customer service are a great bonus. He's just looking for some confirmation on the fact that its a better deal than the sucker punch.
 

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tbone16 said:
I heard the Sucker punch bike is welded with coat hangers, and assembled by the kids that werent good enough to hack it at the nike sweat shops.
Ha!
Those kids can't even do fractions!
Have you tried to buy a "half" size Chuck Taylor lately?!?
 

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tbone16 said:
I heard the Sucker punch bike is welded with coat hangers, and assembled by the kids that werent good enough to hack it at the nike sweat shops.

I assume you are kidding right? But just in case..

Ok, I don't work for Kraft Tech, but here is why I use them, aside from the great cost.

SPS frames are almost all from Kraft Tech. I use Kraft Tech frames pretty much exclusively on ground up builds. Hands down, price and quality the best frames out there. Legit company making frames for 30 years and in the America. Yes, some materials come for over seas, but all frames are hand welded here in CA.
As more and more factories have moved offshore the majority of DOM comes
from all over the world. Kraft Tech does regular blind analysis and stress testing on all their materials.
They use tubing that is of a special formulation just for them. The tubing is 3 times stronger than off the shelf DOM. KT even have special welding rods made to their spec. Every single frame is made in San Fernando, CA. No a days there are lots of cats building frames and putting big inch motors in them, very, very few are stress tested. Some are building with low cost chome moly, if you buy a chome moly frame, ask the builder if the welds are annealed. Nothing worse than a snapped down tube at 100 mile and hour.

Seen enough, and for sure ridden my bikes HELLA ( to steal a Nor Cal term)hard to convince me the frames I run are super tough and very well built. On the El Diablo run I POUNDED my blue bike on some of the toughest roads I've ever been on and I didn't slow down a bit 750 miles and all I had when I got home was a lose oil tank bracket. Not sure I would run that hard on the latest Pauchgo frames.

cro
 

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Its really a personal call on what rollers you like better and who is going to give great customer service and who stocks all the parts you may want along the way.

Kraft Tech makes decent frames, but the tubing is huge and heavy. Thats why we dont use them unless we are making a softtail for someone, then they dont care how big the frame is.

I wanted to keep our bikes "more" traditional. Ours are made with 1" tubing. We have never ever had a problem with our frames(over 250 sold).

I'd be happy to answer any questions you have if you have them.

-Jason
 

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Scorcher said:
Its really a personal call on what rollers you like better and who is going to give great customer service and who stocks all the parts you may want along the way.

Kraft Tech makes decent frames, but the tubing is huge and heavy. Thats why we dont use them unless we are making a softtail for someone, then they dont care how big the frame is.

I wanted to keep our bikes "more" traditional. Ours are made with 1" tubing. We have never ever had a problem with our frames(over 250 sold).

I'd be happy to answer any questions you have if you have them.

-Jason
Please don't take my post as knocking one over the other, just pointed out the facts and my personal preference for frame choice and why. Yeah, people dig the 1" for the traditional look and thats cool,but some think anything aftermarket isnt traditional, who fucking cares? I chose a fatter frame years ago because everyone was running 1", and I also know I am going to ride the piss out of the bike so it better hold up..Simple as that.. As far as KT frames being "alright" I've had guys that have been welding for 35-40 years say how amazing the work was. I also offered up tech reasons why I run the frames beyond the look or personal pref, to me thats important to know cause if I build something and the customer ends up laid out on the road I better have a damn good reason why I put them on a chassis that failed.

I aint here to sell anything, or knock anyone, just here to learn and share some knowledge if I can.

Its all cool in my book. No vibe coming from this end.
 

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crocustoms said:
Please don't take my post as knocking one over the other, just pointed out the facts and my personal preference for frame choice and why. Yeah, people dig the 1" for the traditional look and thats cool,but some think anything aftermarket isnt traditional, who fucking cares? I chose a fatter frame years ago because everyone was running 1", and I also know I am going to ride the piss out of the bike so it better hold up..Simple as that.. As far as KT frames being "alright" I've had guys that have been welding for 35-40 years say how amazing the work was. I also offered up tech reasons why I run the frames beyond the look or personal pref, to me thats important to know cause if I build something and the customer ends up laid out on the road I better have a damn good reason why I put them on a chassis that failed.

I aint here to sell anything, or knock anyone, just here to learn and share some knowledge if I can.

Its all cool in my book. No vibe coming from this end.
good points. thanks for the headsup. certainly there has to be a point of diminishing returns w/respect to oversized tubing used for durability/performance (but i dunno). the finest BICYCLES in the world used to be made of simple round steel tubes (no lugs, no butting). steel frame design evolved to fabulously elaborate tubeshapes (both internally butted up to three times as well as outisde). different alloys were even used. they got lighter and even stronger using less or same amount of material and handled better but never got as heavy as they were in the beginning.

today, round tubed steel framed BICYCLES are for collectors and the industry went to aluminum or more exotic materials like ti (won't even mention carbon fiber).

point is, not sure more metal is "better" (though i'm sure it IS strong). if PURE, end-of-spectrum performance/durability is the primary concern (e.g motorsports/MX)....i don't think they use many round steel tubes at all.

anyhoo...onto 2nd cup 'o coffe.
 
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I'm SABTRUMP's buddy that was looking for the information on the SPS and FRC rollers. I was mainly looking at the price differences, options and quality. Being new to this side of the house, I figured a lot of you guys would have the info, so thanks. Currently leaning toward FRC because of the springer, seat and other options. I just need to call them up and ask some questions.
 

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Back to the original question, between those 2 rollers there is a pretty big price difference. If you want a springer front end, then you gotta add that in on the SPS, plus the fender, seat and seat mounting kit. So apples to apples the FRC is $2499 and the SPS is $4220. Big difference. I'd go FRC cause I ain't paying an extra couple grand for some oversize tubing.


Sean
 
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