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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
how much medium sized flake should i use for 8oz of clear?
what i`m shooting is covered nicely by 8oz of paint, so i figgerd to mix that much clear,[easy to calcumlate mix ratios,too] so how much flake? tablespoon? 1 oz? i gotta binks gun w/big tip and was advised to put a coupla marbles in the cup to swirl and keep the flake suspended....some thoughts, pls
build thread to follow :eek:
 

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your going to need to spray a lot more than 8oz of clear to bury flake-see you have to clear, wetsand, and repeat until smooth and that cant be calculated until you do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
your going to need to spray a lot more than 8oz of clear to bury flake-see you have to clear, wetsand, and repeat until smooth and that cant be calculated until you do it.
understood,
my question is the mix ratio for conveying the flake onto the surface...i used about 8oz of paint in 2 steps [half the tin in one step,the other half in the 2nd step] 8oz of paint per step covers nicely.....so i thought i would mix 8oz of clear w/flake, but how much flake per 8oz of clear? not looking for "bass boat" style flake, just good even coverage......i will then clear/wetsand/clear/repeat until correct....
anybody ever used the "flakebuster" gun that TCP sells? sure seems like flake density control would be better, shooting the flake dry!
 

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There is no standard formula it all depends on the effect you're going for, the kind of flakes you have and lots more. experiment on some junk first if it 'is your first flake job.

Compared to a normal paint job you may need up to ten times as much paint. I use several layers just to get the flakes on.
 

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Like gecko said several coats, its not like putting the clear on. The flake doesnt come out like paint it will take several pass's to get good coverage. You will need to let it flash off between coats to or you will have a bunch of sags. Do a test panel first and you will get a better feel for what your doing.
 

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I sometimes spray dry. Depends on what I'm shooting and what I want. It makes a hella mess. You will look like you just came from a Studio 54 party, no doubt.

The amount of flake in the clear really does depend on the effect and size of flake. If I were a first time flake sprayer, I might look into HoK SG150 as my carrier for flake. But... that's me. Good luck and post some pics when you can.

C
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
thanx guys,yea first time flaker...kustom shop 004x004 hex fuchsia flake...topher, you using a "flakebuster" gun? seems like i would have more control of "flake density" with the dry spray gun......this is what i`, going to flake, everything within the silver striping will get hit with the fuchsia flake!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
boy! is it easy to f*ck up a flake job! mixed about 2 tablespoons of flake/8oz of clear, started shooting.....[everything was taped off like the first 2 pics] looked great! but wasnt getting the density i wanted so i shot more,and more....[you KNOW where this is going,right?] about the time i got the density i wanted, the flake started heading south! damned runs.....wetsand and try again.the flake is critical on this job as i dont want a "purple"[fuchsia,actually] bike! the blue is prolly gay enough! a coupla qiuck "dust overs" with the flake and it will be clearcoat from there on out.....i tried to take pics but the camera wont capture the flake, except where the light is shining on it!
i`m totally sure the problems are ALL operator error!
 

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That sucks! Like i said you will need to do several coats and let the clear flash (dry) before you make another pass. It will take some time to do but be patient. This was my first attempt at flake.
 

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I don't have the flake buster, I have the bazooka, basically the same thing. You can, in my opinion (read: worthless!) get better coverage with the dry spray, but it's not a one-shot deal. Still needs layers. And like I said, hella messy.

I would have shot a metallic base that matches your flake. Then flake. Let it DRY!!! I usually wait 24 hours, scuff with scuffpad, then wait another 24 hours at least before I attempt to begin clearing to level. Same is true if I spray wet, btw. The matching metallic base will help to hide any thin spots. Clear to level, repeating the drying step. Once it's sanded flat, I would then tape out the areas to be covered in blue and shoot those. I find it is better to shoot the product that will be thicker first and then the thinner product next-capice?

PM me if you have any questions. Happy to help.

C
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
" You can, in my opinion get better coverage with the dry spray"
yup, i think so, problem here is that the only gun i have to shoot flake with is a big `ole Binks #19 with a huge tip.....NOT the gun you want to shoot clear with! i kept lookin at the flake, by the time i got the coverage i wanted, the clear was too heavy......with the dry set-up, i coulda shot a coat of clear with a smaller gun THEN flaked untill i liked it.....i aint going for "bass boat" style flake....more of a "tint"...thats where i`m at now..look these parts head-on and you dont see very much flake, cock your head to one side and the flake POPS!
all the grief i`m having with this is [most definitely] OPERATOR ERROR!
my first time flaking too!
ps, the red bike is the bike i`m shooting
 

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If you have to shoot it wet, that's fine. What paint system are you using? Find the pearl and flake carrier for that system. Use that. Shooting flake in a catalyzed clear is very difficult and not for a first timer, in my opinion. Use the carrier, then clear over it. If you are looking for more coverage, you do 2-3 medium coats. If you keep hosing it on, it will run. The carrier will have a solvent based wax type of something in it to keep the flake suspended. If your paint company does not have that, use an intercoat clear. Again, 2-3 passes.

Spraying dry or not is not your issue. If you lay the flake on too heavy, even dry, it will run. The weight of the flake will overcome the product being used and it will sag/run. It's all about light passes and a lot of time.

C
 

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PS, if that didn't make sense, I'm several beers in. I'll clarify anything you need in the a.m.

C
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
nope! that made perfect sense...if i havnt said it already, i`m freakin clueless about this stuff and didnt even realize that there was a dedicated carrier for flakes and pearls!
its actually looking pretty good,exceptin where i had to wetsand the runs,,,think i will be able too do a qiuck "dust over" those spots and go to a wetsand/clear sch.
thanx for the info,guys!
will be postin pics when this bike is back together
 
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