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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1982 Shovel (FXSB). Does anyone know about the later Harley OEM e-ignitions? My manual says that post 1980 shovels have electronic advance/retard. I read this after I went looking for the weights. I need to know if my thinking is right and/or if the ignition is serviceable. It looks like all I can do is time it. I've never needed to adjust the timing and from the looks of it, it hasn't been adjusted in a long, long time.

I've got an intermittent problem that I think has something to do with timing. Going down the highway and all is well. Bike suddenly loses some, but not all power. Starts backfiring loudly enough to scare cars. Lasts a few minutes then goes away. Temporarily retarded, right?

Bike (kick only with Super E) is a breeze to start once it's been warmed up. First start of the day, as many will agree, is horrible for my spindly leg. So, is this an electronic advance/retard problem. If so, can any guru here tell me if I can slip in an earlier ignition with weights?

Here's what the cone looks like with all everything removable removed.

 

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Dont see why you cant put old style weights and pointsor weights and a dyna or simmilar ign...sounds like the module or the pickup is shitting out to me.
 

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Advance weights and a Vulcan, or Dyna S. Both are cheap, reliable and make good fire.

Hey, you also might have shit coils, if those haven't been replaced in 30 years...
 

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You can put points with the advance weights in it. But I really doubt it'll solve your problem. Have you checked the simple crap like gas cap venting, fuel petcock/filter partially plugged, float bowl set right, etc. Those stock E igniotions are usually pretty
troublefree. Have you put a timing light on it?
 

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Advance weights and a Vulcan, or Dyna S. Both are cheap, reliable and make good fire.

Hey, you also might have shit coils, if those haven't been replaced in 30 years...
What Doc said about the Dyna-S is right on....
Very reliable with a three year warranty....
They are not very dial-able...Can install heavier springs for dialing the advance curve...

The Aftermarket has went the long mile with ign. systems that are fully dial-able and can support a VOES that will retard the ign. going up hills at full throttle ....
Also with using a single-fire unit has Big time advantage ...

The Dyna 2000-I is one of the best for doing this....

http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/instruct/D2Ki-1P.pdf

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Let me rephrase that. The system produces spark just fine, snd has been doing so since 1982. It's the late, late model electronic advance that I think is causing trouble. It only recently started causing grief.

You can put points with the advance weights in it. But I really doubt it'll solve your problem. Have you checked the simple crap like gas cap venting, fuel petcock/filter partially plugged, float bowl set right, etc. Those stock E igniotions are usually pretty
troublefree. Have you put a timing light on it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I have no points plate. Actually, I do, but its just a piece of blank steel with the factory e-ignition bonded onto it. I assume I need a points plate as well. The only combo points plate/weights I can find is through V-Twin. The Vulcan sounds like the simplest solution, and I assume it doesn't come with the plate. I don't want to spend a bunch of $$ on the Dyna right now, only to find the real problem is a bent rear rim.

Anyone got a spare points plate, or can point me to one.

If not, can anyone suggest a company to get the weights and points plate/points. This is all entirely new to me. My only experience is with a 1940 Allis Chalmers and some scattered Japanese stuff. Thanks for the input.
 

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You don't need a plate with the Vulcan. Bolt on and go (after you install your auto advance, of course)
Auto advances are available through all the usual parts places (jpcycle, etc.)

 

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I'm gonna agree with Creepinogie. It always been my experience that electronic ignitions, especially factory ones, don't go partially bad. They either work, or they don't. And when they go bad, they go all at once. Before I dropped a bunch of money on a new ignition system, I'd look for other causes.

On the ignition/electrical side, look for a low battery. loose connections or a shorted wire. If you have an electronic tach, disconnect it for a while and see if the problem goes away. Borrow a coil, make sure it's for electronic ignition. They've been known to go intermittently bad, usually as they get warm.

On the fuel supply side, check for manifold leaks and a gas cap vent not functioning properly. Look for low fuel delivery because of a blocked line or a clogged petcock screen or fuel filter. Look at the tip of your float needle to make sure modern gas hasn't swollen it.

The newer electronic ignitions mentioned are all good, but you're gonna be pissed if you spend your money on one and still have the same problem.
 
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