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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
se if you can hear and identify whats going on with my engine...

its strongest at 0:22 just before i zoom in again on the rear head.. sigh

3 fast, sharp metal "cla cla clank"


It has less then 2000 Km since top end rebuild..

jugs
pistons
valves and seals
springs
rocker arm axels and busshings. shimmed (not with the wavy ones)
etc

any help would be much appreciated...

cheers // sad shovelheader...
 
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Just run the adjustment down on the pushrods with the cam lobe on low cam...Keep making sure the the pushrod will spin...Go tight enough with the adjustor to lock it from spinning...with about ten minuets and check again for spin...If it is still locked..back off until it spins...

Just do the rear jug....This will be a test...

The OEM Hydraulics's was a bit weak in design...They was made first in 1953 and went unchanged all the way to the last Shovelhead of 84...

If you wanted to run the Best of the Best and stay Hyd.
It would be very hard to beat BMO Hydraulic lifters...

http://shop.velvatouchlifters.com/

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks for the advice..

i have read alot about the velva touch kit and its my next upgrade..
but i didnt plan on doing it so soon.. well its not always it goes like planed!

im of to Stockholm, Pearl Jam on saturday.. the shovel has to wait..


thanks for the help dragstews..

any "other" input would also be appreciated.. cheers
 
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Could take a look at the ball end of the pushrod and cup of the rocker arms..



Sometimes they get beat to hell...



The way I go about doing that is to coat the ball with a black marker and without going at a angle spin it in the arm then have a look at the pattern that can be seen on the ball....Or take a bore scope for a really good look see ...

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A word about B-M-O lifters.....
They have the ability to oil the top end from the pushrods just like the EVO's does..
Would need to change the rocker arms for the oiling ports to support this feature...
After/Market makes the arms for the STD Shovel in the 1:43 or 1:50 ratio or you can cut down the EVO arms to the Shovel specks and have a 1:625 ratio (More lift at the valve with any cam)
Also the lifter blocks can be had in the Evo angles for running EVO cams...Outside still has the looks of OEM Shovel blocks

If you did go with the Tall ratio of the EVO's...I would suggest packing the valve springs for the added lift...And of course Valve to Valve check...

About .080 will need to come off the spring side of the arms to fit Shovel boxes...



And if your heads have been decked or high dome pistons are in the mix...A Valve to Piston check would also be a grand idea to do...

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After you do the check with the hyd. running on the bottom of the working zone of the lifter and the noise is still there.....

Could take a look at the tappet rollers...Very hard to point a finger at the source of valve train noise cause for the sound travels....Kinda like those dang Goats on top of that roof...

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks Dragstews for the info.. i appreciate that very much, thanks

i looked at the Velva kit and the shovelhead version maybe the one for me..
stock rockers, shovel oiling, shovel cam.. etc etc..
Im no racer...... dont need high/fast lifting evo cams ;)

i uploaded a new video done with another camera (not my phone this time)


take a listen and let me know what you think is going on...

mega cheers!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
no its not that..

this is frustrating.. very hard to explain "noise" over the internet...

I´ll try to say when she does the tick/clack sound..

1 noise...1.5 sec into the video ("tick")
2 noise...2.7 sec into the video ("toock")
3 noise...6.5 sec into the video ("tick")
4 noise... 11 sec into the video ("tick...tock")

i dont know if that helps.. but worth a try..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I havent done the solid test yet, will come back with results later.

its getting "late" here in Norway.....

so it will have to wait until tomorrow (dont wanna wake up the 2 year old :)
 

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It doesn't sound loud enough for a sloppy lifter and if it were you could feel it through the tube...but it is not the best way to determine where a sound is coming from off from a video.Is it distinctive enough to tell if it is at engine RPM or 1/2 or 1/4 RPM?
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks Dragstews for helping out man.. i really appreciate it!

i have problem sleeping over this thing.... sigh

springs are new...

but i know thats not a guarante, if its broke it doesnt matter new or old..


tail light broke today.. fucking china crap.. bought another one... it broke BEFORE i got it on the bike... oil tank broke loose, a rubber mount snapped...


a good shovelhead day.... (cant really blame the motorcycle.. just the cheap ass owners fault)



cheers....
 
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Thanks Dragstews for helping out man.. i really appreciate it!

No Problem...
You'll get it nailed down soon, I'm sure.


Tail light broke today.. fucking china crap.. bought another one... it broke BEFORE i got it on the bike... oil tank broke loose, a rubber mount snapped...

A Good Balance Job on the lower end sounds needed to be done...??
(Match recip. weights)

A good shovelhead day.... (cant really blame the motorcycle.. just the cheap ass owners fault)

cheers....
Ya know .... These boys are international..

http://www.ioobmc.com/

Good Guys to ride with...(May be best not to tell them you know how to work on bikes)..;)..

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