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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title says... My test light is always on while trying to set my static timing.

I just installed the Dyna S this morning, and I've completely torn it apart and re-installed it twice.

My wiring looks like:

Dyna S WHITE output to Coil #1 yellow wire (Emgo coil p/n 2472451)
Dyna S BLACK output to Coil #2 yellow wire
Coil #1 black wire joined to Coil #2 black wire, both to switched 12v.
Dyna S to switched 12v

The switched 12v for the Dyna S and the black wires is the same source. Switched 12v from my ignition switch.
 

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I don't mess to much with the EI stuff, but it sounds like the trigger cup is not installed.
 

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Make sure its at TDC on compression stroke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Not being at TDC would cause it to have the test light on constantly? I've rotated the engine by hand a few turns with no change.
 

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If it were at TDC but not on compression stroke the light would stay on when you rotate the timing plate. If it's on through 360 degrees of the engine rotation you either have a bad rotor or other problem. Is the battery fully charged? Low voltage can cause some weird problems.
 

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mine was doing the exact same thing ! weather it was fully advanced or retarded..I just rotated until it sparked or the light came on and moved it a hair back seemed to work
 

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The light is supposed to come on when you turn the mechanical advance cam and your motor is on the advance timing mark. Did you install the mechanical advance correctly? Did you switch out and us their cam in the advance unit? Did you lube the advance unit? If not, the weights may be hanging or the cam itself may be hanging.
 

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And thats why I hate the Dyna S, I only use the Dyna 2000i or Crain High four, Gold cup and no moving parts to ware out.....
 

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The Dyna S is a good, reliable ignition and as with anything else, will last you a long time as long as you maintain it. It doesn't take 10 minutes to take out the advance unit and clean/lube it. As long as you scribe the location where you lock it down, there's no reason to have to time it each time either.

With that being said, I am considering running a mag that I have this winter.
 

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Yeah, but hardly any one does that, the ones I said are set em and forget em, no maintenance.

Mags can be fun!

I will be putting together a super magnum sporty with a Mag next year.....
 

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...And for those people they have these things called "new bikes" that have those "warranties."

A list of things to go over periodically should be in the heads of every person who wants to dick with the older/custom bikes. I like to stick to the side of Robert Pirsig in the belief that if you have half of a brain, you can maintain a machine as simple as a motorcycle.
 

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find TDC first, on the flywheels(through timing hole on left side of case) or on spark plug hole front jug.
if test light is on at this point , retard until light goes off, then move forward till light comes back on.
this should get it to fire, then adjust as needed
*be really careful with the ign. because if its connected incorrect it will smoke easy.
 

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hard to follow your description, what bike, and exactly which Dyna S you have. But my first guess is that you've wired it wrong or you are using your test light on the wrong wire.

I know that if they are wired incorrectly, they can self destruct, although I can't remember if the symptom is constant 12v power or none at all. So, that's another possibility.

Additionally, not sure if those coils care (some don't), but it does sound to my like you have the +/- sides of the coils mixed up.

Dynatek support, and documentation is all very good, and available on line, if you haven't been through it or contacted them already.
 

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I think hes trying to say the same thing that i had going on. As the direc say what to do but the test light stays on no matter what fully advanced or retarded and any were between..still cant figur eout why it was/is doing it
 

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Where did you get the ignition? Was it used? I've had a similar situation with a Dyna S. If i recall, the ignition was damaged by being installed improperly (the two wires were hooked up backwards). Dyna specifically states that a Dyna S hooked up in reverse, the ignition will be destroyed instantly on power up. As i recall, my destroyed ignition exhibited the same behavior you are seeing . . . test light stays on as you rotate through both extremes of the timing range.

Dyna has a test procedure you can use to test the ignition to make sure it's good.
1) start with checking the resistance of the coils. They need to be at least 3 ohms. Sounds like you are running 2 coils, so they need to be at least 1.5 ohms per.
2) if that checks out, rotate the motor until the magnet is the rotor is pointing away from the modules and check the voltage between ground at the positive side of coil. should be about the same as battery voltage (maybe up to 1 volt less). measure the voltage between the negative terminal of each coil and ground. should be .8 to 1.4 volts
4) now, rotate motor again until the magnet points at sensor . . . voltage should shoot up to about the same as the battery voltage.

If the voltage stays high all the time, regardless of magnet vs sensor position, check that the mounting plate has a solid ground. If it does, you probably have a bad ignition.

you can find a detailed test document here: http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/Support-Released/Dynatek/Manuals/DynaSTSG.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It's a 79 Suzuki GS550. I'm on the starving college student budget, so no Harley yet haha.

I ordered the ignition new from Dennis Kirk. I followed the directions that were included, and I'm usually good with electrical stuff. I'm getting so incredibly frustrated with this thing though.

I get spark when I kick it over, and I've compared my wiring to the directions multiple times. This is how I've got it wired.

 

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I have a question on the dyna s as well just installed mine tonight dual fire single fire kick only shovel set up.

So I kicked to find compression stroke on front cylinder then rolled eng a little more till advance mark was centered in window hooked up test light ignition on no lite manually advances unit light came on is this it for static timing it does not seem as accurate as points are as I have a range I can move plate and lite will come on and off on both ends not sure how to make it dead on any suggestions bike seemed to fire okay ten kicks but hoping for a 5 kick or better
 

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So Icalled a buddy and gained some knowledge on static timming DYNA S works great and is right on the money. Instead of using test light pull front plug find comp stroke move advance mark centered in widow take spark plug hook up to front cylinder wire ground out plug so you can see spark. Turn ignition on and manualy advance flyweights tell you see spark move timming plate back and forth tell you find spot where plug will spark and lock it down.
 
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