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Need some inspiration. I'm thinking of building my own controls. Running a juice drum out back. Not sure what kind of M/C this is, or the year of the brake.


Let's see some clean custom-built setups!
 

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I'm currently working on the master cylinder on a juice drum for my bike, only with mids. I was running into issues because there was no space to put the M/C on the right side of the bike. Also the way the mids are done I have no space for pedals so I put a tab on the front frame boss that holds the brake lever.

Where I'm at on it...I went the crossover route similar to drum brakes, but used the bottom tube at the rear of the frame. The M/C is mounted on the left side of the bike at the rear of the frame just behind the primary.

I'm in progress now, but I'll try to get some pics tonight.
 

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That's a cool solution, but I'm running a nosecone motor and an S pipe off the rear exhaust. The exhaust runs about an inch off the frame rails so I don't have the room for something like that...really I don't have room for my damn foot. :confused:

I should probably try to de-compact the whole bike, but I've gone this far I might as well keep at it.
 

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Here's a left side mount setup on my 74 sporty that has reversed Fwd controls, ...brake now on right and shift on left like 75 and later.
 

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Sure, the brake pedal on the right side of the bike turns a shaft that runs to the left side of bike where a bellcrank/lever is attached to its end. That lever has another short rod attached that actuates the plunger (with heim joint) on the end of the master. Fluid flows out the port in the rear of the MC via a standard auto parts store green Galfan coated brake line w/fittings to a small tee fitting (not shown) back by the lower fender mount. The tee holds the input line from the master, the switch for the brake light and the outlet hose to the rear caliper.

The shifter pedal that you see in the picture has the same mechanical shaft and bellcrank set up to actuate a pushrod on the right side of the bike that's connected to a shortened shift arm that's oriented to the 6 o'clock position and rachets to 7 o'clock to catch gears. Clear?

This all seems like a lot of monkey motion just to get around the traditional pre 75 shift and brake arrangement, but hey, having the starter blister shaved off the primary gets more attention. Its hot rodding, it doesn't have to make sense right?
 

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Here's the pedal assembly, tucked in front of the exhaust and magneto:



When you depress the brake lever it will pull a rod attached to a lever, connected to a cross shaft. I haven't build the lever or rod so I can't sow it at this point, but it's pretty easy to grasp. The crossover shaft rides in a shouldered cup (one on each side of the frame) with a bronze bushing. The cups look like this:



The crossover rod is 1/2" and the lever is 1/4". I put 4 flats on the end of the rod and put a square hole in the lever to keep anything from slipping. To hold the lever on the end of the rod I drilled and tapped for 5/16" coarse. One end of the assembly needs to come off for maintenance...the side not shown will be welded on. Here's what the M/C lever side of the shaft looks like:


Here's a side view of the rod and lever in the bike (no brake plunger):



Here's the lever from above:



Originally I was using a flat 1/4" lever spaced away from the frame, instead of the zig zag you see above. I was worried the bottom of the lever would drag on hard left turns and bend the crossover shaft. I ended up with the zig zag to span the gap and maintain ground clearance.

Anyway - that's about as far as I've gotten. I need to make a smaller plunger, build the rod and lever for the pedal side and figure out how the thing will be adjusted.
 

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Here is what I did on my '71 chop. I converted to disc brakes front and rear while retaining the left-side braking. First, I made a set of motor mounts out of 1/2" T6061 aluminum (milled the "pockets" into them to fit up nice and square). I turned a set of set-off "stalks" which mount through the motor mount plates and turned a set of brass pegs to fit. For the rear brake, I used a basic Evo Sporty m/c and mounted it below/behind the left-side control so the plunger is actuated directly by a tang on the brake pedal.

If some better pics will help you, just let me know and I'll snap some for you. I am 6'-4" tall with a 36" inseam and these controls fit me really well... they are a bit shorter that typical forwards.

www.flamethrowercustoms.com
www.flamethrowercustoms.blogspot.com
 

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I made the adjuster and finished mocking up the M/C side tonight so I figured I'd share the pics.

Just for reference - this is what the cups look like:



Here's the clevis and plunger. Can't really see it, due to the boot, but there's about 3/4" thread which gets you about 1/2" adjustment in the plunger.





I need to adjust the bends on the lever, finish weld and clean up a bit but I think it should work pretty well.
 
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