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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey fellas,
Still fooling with my timing, point gap, etc. and have a few questions. The bike is a '72 TR6C with stock points and a Harley style coil.
On Tony the Torch's advice, I increased the points gap to .021" and re-timed (static only). Seems to not want to idle as well, but my upper-mid range misfire seems to be gone! I haven't had it outside yet, but in the garage it spools up much better.
My questions are about the points gap, sparking, and the auto advance.
On the points sparking, the sparks are very small and almost constant, but every once in a while, a slightly larger one jumps out. Do I need a new condenser, something else, or is this pretty normal? Can't say I noticed it sparking last time I ran it with the points cover off and the points gapped to stock specs. They don't seem to be burnt. There are some slightly darker spots on them, but they are smooth and still shiny.
Secondly, the auto advance. While I was in there, I removed, cleaned, and lubed the auto advance unit. How do I know if it's working ok? It's free and is able to pivot, but if I move it to full advance with a screwdriver, it doesn't spring back. It takes virtually no effort to move it back to no advance, and if you tap it with your fingernail it returns, but not sure if it moves as required while running. Does this sound about right?
Finally, since I re-gapped the points, do I need to file them flat and parallel with each other or are they gonna be ok as is?
Thanks guys......sorry to be so long winded.
Johnny
 

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Johnny,
Points only spark when there is a mis-fire, so your sparking may be caused by a bad condenser.
The only way to tell if the auto advance is working is to put a tach and timing light on it and watch at what rpm it advances. most times the springs get weak over time and it advances too soon. many times the weights have bounced back and forth so many times it advances and retards too much,it should only move 12 degrees total. if you set the total advance at 38 deg. this could be your idle problem it could be too far retarded at idle at around 22 degrees. the only way to see that is with a degree wheel and a timing light.

To make a long story short, why not pull all that points, condensers and advance unit out and replace it with a Pazon electronic and never have another ignition problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
To make a long story short, why not pull all that points, condensers and advance unit out and replace it with a Pazon electronic and never have another ignition problem.
Well, the short answer is that I like to tinker with it. I'm learning a lot as I go as well. And something, I'm sure unfounded, makes me trust mechanical things more than electronic things. Can't explain it other than maybe it's because I can see the parts working.

So got her out of the garage for a short ride and here's what. Other than idle, it runs perfect! No more miss at upper mid range! And I'm pretty sure the idle issue is fuel related. When she's leaning over on the kickstand, idle is fine. Straight up and she just won't idle at all!
I'm gonna search a little, then probably will start a new thread.
Thanks again Tony! Your suggestion to increase points gap has solved something that's been bothering me for a long time!

Johnny
 

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Check the points gap all around the high part of the cam.If it varies the AAU is bent (most are).Knock it back on centre with a soft punch and light taps with a hammer.They bend easily enough.
Tighten the springs to get full advance close to,not more than,3000 rpm.On some you can adjust the spring tension by bending the spring hanger.Some you can only bend the hooks on the spring. 0.010" adjustment on both springs changes full advance rpm by about 1000.
 
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