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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there, trying to make one good panhead out of a 57 and a 64, good cases on the 57, but need to use the jugs and head off the 64. Does anybody know what it really entails to convert this to an outside oiler so I can use the 2 different styles as one. Some people were just telling me to get a knuckle head cover that already has the connection for an outside oiler, but I dont think it can be that simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
do you have to do anything to the jugs? are there oil passages that are different from the 2 years? or its that it?
 

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even simpler (and cheaper) yet. I've had/have 2 earlier cased pans with 63-65 heads. One used the opening for the oil pressure switch on the stock. The other has a machined tappet screen plug that was machined to accept a fitting.

That should be all you need to do.

Pretty self explanatory, but if you need pics I can try to dig some up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So basically I just block off any oil passages in the jugs, then use one of the many ways listed to bascially bring oil to the heads? And I thought this was going to be a pain in the ass process
 

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ampdesign said:
So basically I just block off any oil passages in the jugs, then use one of the many ways listed to bascially bring oil to the heads?
Not any oil passages, just the feeds. You'll still need clear drain passages for the oil returning from the heads.

Yes, then it's just a matter of feed from the oil pump or cover as mentioned.

Be sure sure to use a restrictor as was already advised or you'll have too much oil up top.

Jason
 

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So basically I just block off any oil passages in the jugs, then use one of the many ways listed to bascially bring oil to the heads? And I thought this was going to be a pain in the ass process
in my opinion, you don't NEED to block off any of the feed passages as it will simply deadend somewhere (later cylinders shouldn't have the feed passage anyways). but like Jason McElroy said, i'd say it's best practice to block the passage at the cases to reduce the chance of oil weeping. The caution would be if you drill and tap and use a set screw, obviously you'll need to be very careful about shavings in that oil passage, and make sure the top of the set screw is flush or below the surface.

If your oil returns are stock on cylinders and cases (and not a stroker motor), then no change there.

I haven't used a restrictor before, nor have I had any apparent issues with over-oiling. But I am curious what size orifice people are using who do this (Dragstews?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This is all good info guys, the motor is completely apart so just starting to get stuff together and make an order list. Motor building is not my area of experience so all the info is great.
 

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in my opinion, you don't NEED to block off any of the feed passages as it will simply deadend somewhere
my 52 engine has been modified to outside oilers, I blocked the all the oil galleries in the heads and ran a oil feed from one tappet block to the other

also had heads twin plugged and this breached the oil galleries, hence the need to block the oil galleries in the head

before I had it twin plugged it ran fine with the oil galleries left open
 

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Could use Shovel Base Gaskets....They have no oil feed holes.
Once the jug is bolted down...."Dead-End Street".

======================================================

I haven't used a restrictor before, nor have I had any apparent issues with over-oiling. But I am curious what size orifice people are using who do this (Dragstews?)
I am running a .060 in my 52....It has Crane's rocker arms that ride on Torington Needle bearings with rollers at the valve....

Oil act as a cooler for the springs....Need to have somewhat of a good flow going on...
Don't think much more then .080 would be needed for stock...

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I came across some Panhead heads with some additional work I havent seen before. I suspect it's for converting to outside oilers. It's kind of the other way around from what thread is about.



Anyone seen this before and can identify what it's for?
 

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Yes, that is to convert non outside oiler heads to outside oilers, it was a pretty common and simple modification to do.
Okay. Would it depreciate the value of the heads significantly? They also have evo exhaust ports, but the modifications seems to have been made properly.

Perhaps a good Harley restorer kan weld up the outside oiler ports without too much issues.
 

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Anything done to change the OEM head, can, and usually does, reduce the value. Maybe not to the person who is doing the alterations, but the one that wants them to be OEM again, for a OEM build. Of course there are plenty of non top oiler heads out there. But it is getting harder to find even the common ones, when you need a certain year set.

You did not do the alterations, so no one is going to beat on you. If they do, they are mad at the wrong person.

Check the flow at both and install them. Run them. Enjoy them. When you are done, someone else can do what THEY want with them. Even alter them further than they are now.
 

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Okay. Would it depreciate the value of the heads significantly? They also have evo exhaust ports, but the modifications seems to have been made properly.

Perhaps a good Harley restorer kan weld up the outside oiler ports without too much issues.
Now that you know they are outside oilers, what are you trying to decide?
  • if you want to restore to stock, and the exhaust ports modified as drastically as to fit evo pipes, there's no way it's cost effective to pay someone to restore them, especially if you are paying someone.
  • if you simply want to plug the hole, just pull that brass fitting and replace with an NPT pipe plug. It's probably already tapped as NPT, and if it's not, you can easily do that yourself. Once mounted and a carb installed, it will be practically invisible. You could weld the hold shut, but that seems unnecessary under the circumstances, and unless you were going to have the fins welded and dressed back to stock, then what's the point (that's where time&money comes into play).
 
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