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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1984 FXEF and it runs and drives fine, when stopped I can feel slight clutch drag when in gear. It is very hard to change gears and impossible when stopped and want to upshift from 1-st to neutral, it feels as the shifter froze. When I turn off the motor I can upshift to neutral just fine. Seems as clutch problem but would like to get some advice.


So far I have changed the plates for new ones and cleaned the old discs, it did not help at all, I have pulled plates and discs from another working shovel just to find out this did not do anything at all as well. Same problem, clutch pulls when in gear, the pull is not steady but kind of jerking forward and can not shift from 1-st to neutral unless I turn off the engine or am slightly rolling then I can change gears but not always easily.
I did all the adjustments according to HD manual. 1 1/32 distance between the springs, 13/16 distance between the arm and tranny top (I used the spark plug on the rubber hose for proper spacing on this.

I have noticed indeed that one side of the clutch does look like is moving out slower but I tough it was an optical illusion. Someone advised to use screws to even that out I will try it.

In addition my buddy has suggested that I should run oil in the primary as it looks to be wet clutch plates.
Here is something I never understood. The bike has oil pump circuit active between the primary and whenever I open it there is some oil inside but not as much that it bathes the clutch basket. My understanding is that the oil is circulating and only serves the purpose of oiling the primary chain. I saw some shovs having lotsa oil and some having just a bit. The clutch plates are solid, gray and red (the other set of new plates that I have) material.
Should I add engine oil to the primary so it covers the clutch or not???? How dry plates differ from the wet ones??
 

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I'd take a look at the throwout bearing. Take a look thru the filler hole on the kicker cover to see if it's intact. Sounds like it may be getting weak and getting ready to break.

Sixball
 

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too much tension on the primary chain can cause clutch drag. so can bent dowels on the clutch hub or notches on the inside of the drum where the steel plates locate.
 

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No, do not add any oil to the primary side. Have you pulled the clutch shell off and had a look at the hub shoe? I've seen them broken, causing the same problem that you describe.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the tip, yes I will have to get dirty and do it for once and pull the primary assy out to inspect all the details in close and personal.
 

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Had a transmission lose the mainshaft nut, and it did the same thing, but worse, because it had a kicker and it would rotate the kicker and spin it through. The whole mainshaft was shifting. If the nut is loose, it can make shifting and sitting still, in gear, a bitch.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here are some pics of the hub. Looks as the hub has fingers grooved at one side and fairly good on the other side. Looks as I may need a new hub. Which one to get if anything?? And should I open the kicker tranny cover to see what is going in there???




 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's a lot of your problem right there. I would take the kicker side off to see how the throw out bearing looks!
I have heard all over to check the throw out bearing at the other side of the tranny. What kind of bearing is it ? E-bay has 2 kinds a tiny one and one that looks like a cone.
 

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aaaahhhhh the wafer bearing.

theres a kit that converts back to the old cone shape bearing and you should be able to buy the studs instead of forking out for a hub.
 

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If you upgrade to the York clutch set up kinda short mola it eliminates all those worn fingers and bearing set up.
No more wobble,no more dragging,no more hard shifting.Youll love it ,It converts your clutch set up to a diaphram type set up.Its the same as the Rivera Primo but alittle cheaper.Ive been using em for awhile now and never a problem...hope this helps ya.
 

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Just had similar problems and switched to the Rivera. Money well spent. if nothing else its peace of mind.<O:p</O:p
Hey Brutus how do you like the York? I was looking at that before I switched over , but couldn't find any one I knew running it so I just ended up going with the Rivera.<O:p></O:p>
 

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BW,I love it and 3 other freinds run em in thier Shovels to they all work great set em and forget em.Real easy instal as well.Rivera is awsome product just a little more pricey...
 

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If I had to do it again I would look further into the York just because of cost. It a shovel so I could have spent the cash I saved on other shit.
 

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I hear that Im poor so I had to consider all my options.mine was doin all the same as described above I knew his fingers were worn and hangin the plates up just by how he described the plates only half releasing on one side.Same happend to me.
 

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If you install a new clutch hub I doubt you will ever grove them that bad again. Even if you do it will be years from now for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
This is what I have ordered from JP Cycles. I hope this will help.

6100015 CLUTCH HUB ASSEMBLY--3 FINGER 1
620-688 THROW OUT CLUTCH BEARING 1
630-490 JAMES SILICONE TRANS GASKET 1
 

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Also...before you install your friction clutch plates again, get a "W" size drill bit and and open up the holes in your plates (if hanging is a problem). This will help them not hang up on the studs.
 
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