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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's a crack around the inner primary ring of the motor case about 2 to 3 inches long. Can this be welded without taking the entire motor apart. And what caused it a mis-aligned primary? I am going to talk to a welding shop tommorow and would love to know if it can even be done and what to expect it to cost. i figure maybe an hour labor so let's say 80 bucks? Thanks in advance Jason
 

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I wouldn't weld a case with it assembled like that. Also, after it is welded it would need to be machined so the inner primary would fit back over the ring. Just seal it up with some yamabond, RTV, whatever when you put the inner primary and the o ring back over it. It could probably be done, but i think it would be more of a hassle than it is worth.
 

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Not sure what year you have but it was common on '70s shovels with pre die cast primaries. No big deal. Seal it and go!
Robbie
 

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jb weld has always worked for me, and you can sand/file it. just make sure to prep the surface really well, and let it fully cure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's a 1988 evo bt. Just out of curiosity why not have it welded? What could happen. And even if it is welded from the inside of the ring where the stator is located
 

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you can sent it in to v-twin and they can put a new ring lip on it for you if you decide to split the cases and want to spend the money
 

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I had an 88 Sotail that the previous owner wrecked. It had the same case damage. That part has a groove cut just right for the o-ring and it would be a PITA to weld up and recut. In my case, I filled it with RTV, set the factory o-ring in and smeared another coating of RTV over it. I scrubbed the inner primary clean in that area with a scotchbrite pad and brake cleaner, then installed the inner primary, torqued it to spec and cleaned up the excess, (best with the stator removed). After that it never leaked again.
 

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JP cycles, sells a repair kit, made by Gary Bang, that is made for this repair. Part number 430-900. It is listed as for a 70-84 motors. So it may not work on your 88, but may be worth a try. Never used one, and I too, over the years of working on other peoples shovels, have used the epoxy/yamabond type repairs. They work, but not always. Usually caused by a hit to the primary in a wreck or fall, but mostly caused by the misalignment of the inner primary, to the motor/trans. When reinstalling, loosen the motor and trans, and mount the inner primary, while making sure the two are mating up, with no stress. Then tighten the motor and trans to the frame.
 

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i have that same damage, i ended up just going to a belt and dry clutch.....
 

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What I did on mine was took a thin blade jewlers saw and cut the broken piece loose. Then I carefully cleaned with a wire brush both sides of the crack, applied JB, stuck it back on, wiped down, and carefully placed the primary back on and tightened down while the JB hardened. Cleaned up with emery cloth after set.
 

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. Usually caused by a hit to the primary in a wreck or fall, but mostly caused by the misalignment of the inner primary, to the motor/trans. When reinstalling, loosen the motor and trans, and mount the inner primary, while making sure the two are mating up, with no stress. Then tighten the motor and trans to the frame.
Yup. People hear that pop and say it's seated, no, that pop is the lip on your case cracking.
 

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You could probably find a guy to weld it, but I think most shops would shy away from this job. The reason is aluminum takes alot of heat to weld. You're probably going to create more problems then it is worth like damage to other seals etc. Also when welding you are going to have current traveling throughout the bottom end of your motor (across bearing surfaces). Most people don't take that into consideration, but I've seen bearing surfaces galled because of this. Then there is metal filings from machine work to clean up the welds.
I say JB weld or rtv for now, and fix probably at your next tear down. That's my opinion and I make my living as a weldor.
 

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JP cycles, sells a repair kit, made by Gary Bang, that is made for this repair. Part number 430-900. It is listed as for a 70-84 motors..................
I think V-Twin sells the Gary Bang kit for Evos too. It basically looks like a paper gasket to go between the primary cover/case and a some hardware to make it work. I'd think you could cut your own gasket out of bulk gasket material and do the same thing.
Larry T
 

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I'd think you could cut your own gasket out of bulk gasket material and do the same thing.
Larry T


I am sure that some people could make it. I would attempt it, and I make gaskets for a lot of stuff, and have been doing it for years. But to the novice(not saying he is), that would be a pretty tough gasket to make, and have it work. Four holes, on a 6 inch circle, 1/4 inch wide, is a pretty hard one to attempt. So I was just trying to make it easy for the guy to just purchase the kit. And it has to be much cheaper than a trip to the machine shop, after removing the LH case. But to the more experienced gasket maker, with all the right tools, it could be done.
 

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I'd think you could cut your own gasket out of bulk gasket material and do the same thing.
Larry T

I am sure that some people could make it. I would attempt it, and I make gaskets for a lot of stuff, and have been doing it for years. But to the novice(not saying he is), that would be a pretty tough gasket to make, and have it work. Four holes, on a 6 inch circle, 1/4 inch wide, is a pretty hard one to attempt. So I was just trying to make it easy for the guy to just purchase the kit. And it has to be much cheaper than a trip to the machine shop, after removing the LH case. But to the more experienced gasket maker, with all the right tools, it could be done.
Yea, it would probably take more time than it is worth.
Years ago, an old mechanic showed me how to take gasket material, lay it on the part that needed the gasket (in this case the inner primary would work), take the ball end of a ballpeen hammer and carefully tap around the edges to cut the gasket. When you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy. But you probably know that.
Larry T
 

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Years ago, an old mechanic showed me how to take gasket material, lay it on the part that needed the gasket (in this case the inner primary would work), take the ball end of a ballpeen hammer and carefully tap around the edges to cut the gasket. When you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy. But you probably know that.
Larry T


Yeah, done that a million times. But I would be real careful, tapping on the inner primary, and the inner primary would only get you half way there, and still no bolt holes. The flange on the motor, would get you all the way, but again, I hate tapping on expensive motor parts. LH case, $$$, kit from Gary Bang, less than 30 dollars. I go for the kit. And I brag about all the stuff I do make, that other people just buy. But sometimes, the time just ain't worth spending, when the part is that cheap. And, Yes, I know that you know that too. Guess we better quit stealing his thread, and help him get his shovel in a state of not marking its spot, every time he lets it sit for 5 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok o here's what I might do. And thanks for the info. 1. I am going to look at belt drive primary so I don't have to wory about it leaking. And drill the holes to jb weld. 2. I talked with my brother who is a trade welder for 15 years and he thinks that with a rig assembled he can weld in small incriments from the inside to the stair. Area around the lip so that the heat will not affect the motor and that no machine work will have to be done. I have seen his welds and he doesn't make almost 100k a year for nothing. So worst case scenario I'm in for a bottom rebuild. I really don't want to tear this thing down though cause I am putting my wife through school. But on the bright side it's not my only bike so no down time. I deffinately trust my brother but the belt drive is reasonably priced through Midwest. I have never run one before. So if I choose belt check the classifieds for my enclosed chain setup with two comp sprockets
 
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