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changed kicker cover and now it's hard to start??

2K views 15 replies 10 participants last post by  AndrewC 
#1 ·
I have a 71 shovel, kick only chopper. Last night I changed the kicker cover and put a new gasket on, that's it nothing else. Before the switch the bike was 2nd or 3rd kick and go machine. Now last night and then again this morning and then again on my lunch break I've had to kick this mofo over at least 20 times before it goes off. WTF? Thats all I did was change the cover and the all guts that go with it. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.
 
#5 ·
Binding at first, but then I cleaned up the inside cover and bushing surface had to sand it down a little and then no binding. No clutch slippage. I didn't adjust the clutch because the release arm went right back to where it was and fit fine. Would that cause hard starting? First shovel here for me and first time messing around with kicker gears. But it has started fine for six months now or so, up until last night.
 
#6 ·
When the motor does light, did you check the clutch by actuating it and enaging 1st gear? Or, is it absolutely not starting at this point?

Go through your clutch adjustment again...

Unless you followed the manual and removed the battery cable "before attempting any work."
 
#7 ·
If the clutch is slipping ever so slightly, it will not turn the engine over like it is supposed to. If the only thing that you worked on is the trans end cover and it started good before, that would lead me to believe something aint right in what you did. Clutch slippage is where I would start.
 
#10 ·
I was gonna suggest the clutch adjustment also but I see you got it figured out
enjoy the riding season
 
#13 ·
I'm not too good at explaining things in words, but will give it a shot. When you kick one over, the clutch is what actually make the engine turn over. When the clutch is adjusted so there is no slippage, all the force is turning the engine over. If the clutch is slipping a little, the engine will start to roll over, and in fact feels like it is not slipping, but in reality it will hit the compression stroke, stop the foward motion, and sometimes actually roll backwards. If you could see this on an engine with an open primary you can watch the clutch hub stop and roll backwards.
 
#14 ·
Make sure you have the adjustment so that the clutch pushrod is not engaged all the time, as this will eat the throwout bearing, and eventually the clutch rod. Loosen the cable at the mousetrap eliminator(under oil tank) until you have no pressure on the clutch handle. Adjust at the clutch hub, by turning clockwise until it bottoms, and back off one flat. Then adjust the cable, until you have no tension on the cable at the clutch arm. This also ensures proper clutch engagement and disengagement.
 
#15 ·
TDW...thanks....it does make perfect sense. The starter engages directly to the clutch basket, then to primary chain/belt (no weak link) the kicker goes "through" the clutch to the basket....the non-properly adjusted clutch would be the weak point....got it. thanks...
 
#16 ·
Thank GOD for the search option as this is something I've been dealing with recently, I'm amazed at how sensitive the bike is to the clutch adjustments. Fine tuning the clutch is as much an art as it is a science! One small change and one hyper extended knee later OUCH, I appreciate the art of the clutch much more now!
 
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