Carmel coated kicker cover

it may have been rebuilt but its had water in it ,those 4 speeds are tough trannys ,i would flush it out , inspect it and run it. oh and trash that throw out bearing and convert to the early bell type and never have to think about that again. just my .02

What's the best way of flushing it out? Guy told me that the original case blew up so they took the guts and stuck it in a revtech case.

if your seal is good on the out put, id pull the top and hold it with kicker side down and use some spray carb cleaner until no more crud washes out, blow it out with air. if your not ready to put ti in service be sure to shoot some oil in it

Thanks man. Appreciate the advice.

That's definitely water in your oil. From the looks of the kicker gear there has been some moisture in there for a while. Pull the lid and look at the gears. If you've got a lot of rust like you do on the kicker gear, you might need to go deeper if you want to get a lot of miles on this transmission. At the very least, flush it out like texas rattler suggested.

That's also a RevTech kicker cover. You can't use the old bel style throw out bearing with the lid.

I hate the "RevTech" logo they put on their cases, but they are stout. Much heavier (almost weigh 1/2 again as much as a H-D case) and the wall thickness is much heavier all around. I just put >90K miles on my RevTech 4-speed. I was going to stick a new set of Andrews gears and shafts into an old H-D (1946) case I have, but when I started comparing the two cases I opted to put the new parts in the RevTech case. I need my bike to be reliable. It's my daily transportion year round.

-Craig

4 speed transmissions have a vent, in the top right hand side of the shifter housing. Usually a taller screw, with a hole in the side. They are bad about letting water seep in, if the bike is parked outside, or ridden in a lot of rain or water. There is a vent screw that you can install a hose on, to keep the water from getting in. Pretty common problem, on a 4 speed. I agree, that you should pull the shifter housing, to inspect the gears. If they are rusted, like the kicker gear, you may want to disassemble to inspect the shafts and bearings. Yeah, they are tough, but rust particals are bearing and bushing eaters, and you would only be doing more damage. If you can't afford to do it right, the first time,,,what makes you think you can afford to do it twice.

I'm going to take the top cover off this weekend and see what's going on in there. I plan on buying a different kicker and top cover to get rid of the shitty chrome ones that came with it. I found some one ebay that look like they'll match up. I also plan on grinding off the revtech logo as well.

If the vent was working properly, wouldn't any moisture boil off after the trans fluid reached anything more than 212 deg F?

Water !!!

Zooligan said:

If the vent was working properly, wouldn't any moisture boil off after the trans fluid reached anything more than 212 deg F?

Click to expand...

No. When the water, mixes with the oil, it takes days, to seperate. And even if it did completely seperate, you would still have moisture in the case, and the damage will continue, until you drain and clean/refill with new oil. If the oil looks "milky", it is time to service the trans. I change mine twice a year. Winter change, and summer change. Plus, if I see milky oil when checking the level, I change it. Remember, Oil, 4.00, Transmission rebuild, 400. So just move the decimal point, and you are there. I have the aftermarket hose style fitting in mine, so it never gets water in it, but I see them in my shop, all the time, full of water.

someone use a oressure washer on that ?

Zooligan said:

If the vent was working properly, wouldn't any moisture boil off after the trans fluid reached anything more than 212 deg F?

Click to expand...

Why and how would your trans lube reach that high a temperature?

Jason

looks good to me too.sounds like a plan.

Are there two different length clutch release shafts? The one that came with the tranny worked with the CCI front cover however I bought a new cover today and the shaft isn't long enough for me to put the retaining ring back on.

I'm looking at the V-Twin Mfg. book and it shows one that appears to be longer that is held in with a cotter pin. Does anyone use one of these?

You are correct, there are two different shafts. One held in with a E clip, and the other held in with a cotter pin. I prefer the cotter pin one. The E clip ones, have been known to loose the clip, and you don't want that thing rolling around in the gear case.