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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, been reading thru this forum for a couple of years now, and finaly registerd today. The main reason to this is that i have a couple of questions for the old sporti crew around here.
I am now starting to look at purchasing a sportster and fixing up to fit the style of bikes i like, and ride the shit out of it.
Beeing in sweden (thats the reason i might misspell some shit here) there arent an awfull lot to chose from, and because of the laws around here, it needs to be 1972 or older.
So, what im asking you right now is, are there any things i should think about, traps to fall into, years that have oddball stuff going on and the alike? Dont like to buy shit and then find out that the spare parts costs a fotune, just because i got the wrong modell bike to start with.
 

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i would not want to buy a 72 or 72 1/2 they have very thin cylinders if you bore them past .020 they will most likely break. if you really beat the bike they could break with a stock bore to fix this most of the time people put on a 73 and up top end

also you would want to check the engine case the tranny counter shaft section of case is notorious for breaking in sporters with worm gear speedo drive
 

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ahh you forgot early 73 has thin cyl walls too, you can only over bore to 30 but have heard 40, early sportys that the speedo worked off the tranny used to blow out the right lower case corner, I have a early 73 XLCH an its had the crap run out of it but then it all depends on how its taken care of too, I have owned it since 1976 so thats my experience You can use a compleat top end from 74 an up on the early ones (72 73) but you need to use the heads an the cylinders because they wont interchange with just the heads or interchange with the cylinders in other words you can not mix them, It has to be a matched set woops you can also use late 73 an up sorry those are the newer style cylinders with more meat in them sorry about that
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, the reason for going with an older bike (pre 1974, not 72, mixed up there) is the fact that i dont have to run speedo, turn signals, mirrors or brake lights on those, so i could swap in an newer engine if i want to. 1000cc seems to be the most popular, but i seem to find a couple of 883:s? i think. Are one motor beter than the other here? aside from more cubes being more fun.
I dont mind fiing it up when i get it, but when its done, i want relaiability, even if i do understand that i might have to turn a wrench now and then to keep it running.
 

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The earlier years are called 900's,but if I'm not mistaken,they actually displace 883.
The ones called 1000's actually displace 996,I think.

Are you saying that as long as your bike is a 73 or earlier,you can use any engine?
If you want to stay with an Ironhead,maybe try a 1977 or 1978.
They will be the 1000,and not have the funky shifter tunnels that 75 and 6 had.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, that is kind of correct, the tech inspectors dont check the engine make on the routine check we do once every two years, so a engine change slides by them easely. The light, mirror, speedo thing gets checkd by the police every time you get pulled over, so its nice not to need having them.
 

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Another thing to think of, is the pre 70 frames, have no vin/serial number. So the title is applied to the motor. Just a thought to think of, if you plan on changing motors, in a 69 or earlier frame.
 
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