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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy i am trying to free my clutch in my 67 441 victor not having alot of luck rocking back and forth and putting in 1st gear and moving backwards...rusty oil came out of primary and added 10w-30 castrol thinking about using atf (automatic trans fluild)....I dont think i have a shared primary on this bike...Ive checked archives all sorts of ideas on how to do this... any ideas? thx gump
 

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Just top it up with tyer "F" ATF,and go for a ride.
Start the engine,push the bike to about 5 mph,and slip it into 1st gear.Hold the clutch lever in and twist the throttle on and off when you ride.Sometimes it can take a mile or so to free a clutch that hasn't been used for a long time.
If you feel confident enough,shift up to 2nd or 3rd even though the clutch won't release.You can put more load on the clutch in the higher gears.

I've never opened a primary case just to free a clutch.If you're finding other problems,then open it up to have a look.
 

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Take it apart before u break something. I just did one on a trophy 250 today. Pull off rear brake lever and peg on ledt side. Then pull all the bolts holding cover on. Make sure you draw a diagram of bolt locations cause some ate different lengths. Seriously do tbis. It will save u alot of frustration cause they are a bunch of different lengths. The badket is four flatheads pull those and then tbe clutch steels and fibers. Write down the sequence the clutches come out because the one i did today was nothing like the factory manual. Take pics w phone too. Hopefully all will come out easily. Use to magnet probes it will make it easy. Obviously inspect clutches see if they r reusable soak them in oil and reassamble. When u put tge prrssure plate back on make sure it releases evenly. U can adjust this w the flathead screws. Have somone use the kicker to see if the pressure plate spins evenly. Then put cove on and add fluid to the level hole. This is how i did the tr250 today. I would imagine the bsa will b very similar. Shoul take u about a hour at most. Sorry for the poor spelling using my phone to type
 

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Take it apart before u break something.
Best advice yet!

I blew out the cases on my BSA a number of years back due to a severely sticking clutch. I didn't want to open the primary either. . . so the countershaft (layshaft for you purists among us) ventilated the case under the sprocket when I revved it up and slammed it into gear.

Man, I took a tough lesson that day.

Jason
 

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You don't rev it up and slam it into gear.That would be asking for trouble.There are less painful ways to ride a bike when you can't dis-engage the clutch.
You wouldn't do that if the clutch cable had broken ,but you could still ride home if you're sensible.

If you ride the bike,and throttle on and off while holding the clutch lever to the handlebar,it will cause no harm.
 

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There's a very, very good chance that Mr.Pete's idea will work, if not for heavens sake just take it apart before you bust it! You can do it...not a big job at all, no special tools required...clutch plates are probably just rusted together by the sounds of what you drained out of it. Separate the plates, wipe the friction plates clean, sand the steel discs clean and put it back together, check the pressure plate for run out and you should be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok but please explain by your comment "check pressure plate for run out"....also when i put the cover plate and spring loaded bolts back on how snug should they be and also put a wire through to secure bolts? Do the friction plates need to sanded also? thank you
 

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Make sure when pressure plate releases it does so evenly. I think that is what is meant by run out. The pressure plate itself should have a flat surfacd on it also. Dont sand friction plates. Just clean everything up to make it smooth. As far as how snug to make the pressure plate bolts....before u take them out count amount of turns in before they bottom. When u reinstall them use this as a basis for thd adjustment
 

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Run out...Yes exactly that, with the clutch 'released' rotate the clutch with the kicker, it should run within about 0.030" to ensure the clutch doesn't drag when released (this doesn't need to be so fussy as to be measured with a dial indicator, a good 'eye' will tell you when it's right). I like to set the clutch nuts so that the bottom edge (where the springs contact them) is just about even with the edge of the cups they sit in...if you need to 'adjust' them differently to get the plate to run true, then do so. No need to lock wire them as the springs are meant to hold them in place. Like ^ he ^ said, not a good idea to sand the friction plates...however if they are lumpy and blistered (like the set I took out this week) you ought to replace them. Set your clutch adjustment screw at half to three quarters of a turn free play, put the cover back on, add the correct amount of fluid and that's about it. Leave the beer in the frige until you're done, take your time, and you'll be fine. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
First,,, thankyou for those who responded......OK update....

removed the primary cover and took rusty clutch plates out and soaked overnight in solvent...today i media blasted the plates observing the video bp131 sent me....reassembled today sunday and think i have the problem solved,, i think the old gent that owned this bike parked it on the side of his house and quit riding it in 1975...i noticed he took a spill on the left side bending the bars up and streched the clutch cable...got a new one commin....next are oil changes....sump at bottom? side oil tank? thank you
 

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Yep,
Get the old oil out of the sump and drain the tank too. Wouldn't hurt to put 1/4 cup into the sump, via the rocker covers, just to give the return side of the oil pump something to do at initial start up. Might want to change out the transmission oil too.
 
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